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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I got El cheapo freon. Use short tube to fill into low side only. I guess keep a little more vacuum that way instead of long tube on manifold gauge. And I don't have adapter for the pin opener to screw in for the cans. Also, cans don't seem to get that cold anymore nowadays. Not sure how much they are short-changing the cans.
The manifold gauge is mainly to pull vacuum only and do leak check.

Learned that "Galaxy" is by Goodyear and both my original hose and newly pulled hose is same manufacturer. They only impact fluid difference are the number of O rings at the connections. Stock 1997 is 2 or inside. And seems some time after went to 3 O rings. The 3 ORings does fit n seal fine.
I'm uploading my vacuuming video.
Ran into a leaking control unit on the accumulator. Tried my darn destiny to do it right by removing accumulator then rescrewing the control unit... But left effen hose on accumulator would not come out. 3hours burned trying. I know that control unit is on there just snug... So... Went for pliers to remove it instead of full removal of accumulator. Changed out to a slightly thicker HF ORings and hand tightened then +1 rotation with vice grips. No more leak.


Will post more pics later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Thanks denisond3,
And dang it, that last post by me had too many auto corrections all over.
Well, that video left off some of the physical comparison.
One other small difference between the two rear hoses is:
DSC_0080.JPG
The right is the 2002 and seems to go up slightly higher than the 1997 one.
Physically, after those first bend, it's all the same.
DSC_0081.JPG

And this Pic to show the Oring difference. Bad Pic.
DSC_0082.JPG

Here is orifice tube from the one I pulled and it looks pretty clean:
DSC_0085.JPG

And here is vacuum video. It's right after this I find that the accumulator is leaking.

Does anyone know why/how those line connectors can be stuck closed and cannot disconnect?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Well, it came off decently quick the first time around. Used only the plastic ones I have. The belt holder thingy is all the way off. Had tried rotating around axis of the accumulator, tried leveraging some with pry bar against firewall. The insert felt flush as can be. Anyhow, if I ever have to remove it again, just hope I'll get lucky and do something I didn't in a 3 hour time period.
Thanks for the share.

This guy had a similar problem with his 94 Taurus:

https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunen...-the-trick-to-a-c-line-disconnection?start=10

The mistake he made was forgetting to unbolt the accumulator from the firewall to allow the connection enough room to separate (his connection overlapped by 2 inches).

If you're using a plastic tool, try a metal one instead, and vice versa.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
For those of you curious...

I can now testify, that even after 2 cans of stop leak (the stop metal leaks kind) in a 4 month period does not guarantee immediate seizure of Compressor after opening up the AC system to air. It Does solidify the mad accumulation around the orifice tube and in my case, the tube was not removable, at least not without drilling. I don't have tweezers that long.

This was main reason why I was asking about the 2nd gen hose. As I was shopping for a new replacement. That LKQ 40% off 4th of July sale made it much more worth it to get used instead (and they had an old Infiniti G20 in the yard as well).
My replacement parts price for this are as follows:
$11 for 2 cans R134 (have a 3rd but not used)
$6 for Used Rear AC line
$9 for new accumulator
$47 for new Front AC hose assembly.
$10 for 8oz of pag46
$1.50 for new orifice tube

$84.50 and blood sweat n tears n curse words (mainly curse words)
For a shot at cold AC. Could a done it for 39 less if I went used on the Front AC hose assembly. Oh well.

If this old compressor lasts a month, gonna call this AC job "done".
Humm....
I think rear brake job and maybe hub bearing assembly next to get up the mpg. Ya feel me?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Well... As I've only filled my system with 2 can, I'm in a quandary about doing half a can more or not.
I did long-distance drive other day and after about 45 minutes on max and last 5 miles with the AC off and windows down, I got mad water drips from under dash.
AC drain seems quite normal or maybe even excessive (not blocked up) after most 10 minute runs or so.
DSC_0092.JPG

A little under 40? That's not super exact thermometer, but that was only like not even 10 minutes with the windows up on like low 80's daytime.

So... Should I top off or no?
Feeling I'm getting frost/freezing at the evaporator core?
 

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I was told by my mechanic the whole system on my 2nd gen only takes 2 cans. The a/c you have is about on par with my first Escort. I wish my second was as good. It's a little less, but I worried about overcharging.

You're probably in good shape.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Just updating. Abouy a year after install, my new AC manifold hose sprung a leak.
The leak is at the accumulator connector And the low side valve's actual valve.
Compressor still good despite all the use of stop leak.
Basically, im debunking the myth that use of stop leak guarantees the demise of the compressor after opening the system up.

Ive replaced the AC manifold hose again and I changed out the orifice tube. I wanted to see how much more debris was left in the system after freon change.

 

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Exactly which type of stop leak did you use? The type that only potentially swells seals isn't going to do any harm. It's the type that seals leaks in metal that potentially messes stuff up (supposedly).
 

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I have twice used the Barr's gray colored stop leak. The other stuff they make is a black slime, meant for very large engines with very bad leaks.
Of the gray product, I used a teaspoon of it when we had a small rad leak - in the middle of New Mexico in August. I replaced that radiator about 5000 miles later, when we had gotten home from the extended vacation.
The 2nd time I used that gray stuff, I put in about a tablespoon - to stop what seemed to be a leak. I think the radiator cap was the problem though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
Yep. I used the stop leak for metal leaks.
That's why there is all that grainy stuff in pic in first orifice tube change.
This is what im debunking. 2 cans of the black/grey AC pro stop leak in like a 4 month period.

Exactly which type of stop leak did you use? The type that only potentially swells seals isn't going to do any harm. It's the type that seals leaks in metal that potentially messes stuff up (supposedly).
 

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Yes, they're 12 oz., but you can't get a full 12 oz. out of the can, maybe 11.5 oz.
So you put in 2 full cans and either guess or weigh out the remaining 5 oz. to get to 28 oz.
I used a small scale. Yes I have a can tap that allows me to store part of a can. Yes I just replaced compressors in 2 cars that both need 28 oz of r134a, so I put two whole cans into each and then used the scale to get close enough on an 5th can that I split among 3 cars (2 with new compressors, and another with a leaky one). I maintain 5 cars, so it's nice to now have 3 with good working air conditioning instead of just one.
 

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Well... As I've only filled my system with 2 can, I'm in a quandary about doing half a can more or not.
I did long-distance drive other day and after about 45 minutes on max and last 5 miles with the AC off and windows down, I got mad water drips from under dash.
AC drain seems quite normal or maybe even excessive (not blocked up) after most 10 minute runs or so.

So... Should I top off or no?
Feeling I'm getting frost/freezing at the evaporator core?
Really depends on things like how hot is it where you live, do you take a lot of short trips in hot weather (since as you already discovered, on a long trip, being 4oz low is not a big deal), and if you have a way to dispense part of a can and store the rest for something else later. In my case, one of the cars I maintain has a r134a leak, so I can always just dump leftover contents of a can into it. That, and I do take a lot of short trips on hot weather where it will make a difference that it's full since the AC will blow colder quicker.

I use the Mastercool can tap that allows you to store a partial can, and I probably had 1/3 of a can in it for around 3 weeks before I recharged the leaky car (2000 4 cylinder Camry).

 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I do my recharge of the system with a short blue hose. I got one of those with the pressure gauge. Prefer the pin tap type as you can just let it fill during a short drive. I also have the trigger type with the gauge which is good when doing a partial recharge. I feel like you get more air into system if you use manifold gauge's middle tube. But maybe that really doesnt matter as much as i think it does b/c you can cheat bleed to get out moisture. Something I noticed recently, there is a certain level of freon where you can get max super cold. It happened a few timew while i was letting my system leakdown while trying to find the leak. It's somewhere on the low side. Usually, when it happened, my compressor wont come back on within a day's time of leaking.
2 cents.
 

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I feel like you get more air into system if you use manifold gauge's middle tube.
That's why even the harbor freight gauge set has a place for you to bleed off the air after you connect up the can of refrigerant. Some hose sets also have a thing for this.

Also, if you are refilling a leaking system, I would not be concerned about a small amount of air getting in.
 
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