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So it came time to replace my driver's side outer CV joint (1991 1.9 L, standard). If you plan to do this job yourself, please do yourself a favout and read my experience below.

The little Haynes manual says the toughest part will be getting the half shaft out of the transmission. That's a crock. It took the better part of a day to get the shaft out of the hub and I used eveything imaginable. It only took 15 minutes with a six foot pry bar to get the shaft out of the differential gear. Also, Haynes says to drop the crossmember. There is no need to do this - so don't do it! Despite copius amounts of Mooove-It, I shredded the tack welds on of the backside of front crossmember-to-frame bolts. This doesn't sound so bad unless you've seen the unthinkable shape of these bolts (round head on the tacked, non-visible side) and there complete lack of accessibility. Some significant steel work is still to be done before I feel confident that the front engine mount is braced adequately.

Here's the main point. Of the parts I ordered, I got the wrong hub, wrong wheel bearing, wrong bearing snap ring (all obvious) and wrong half-shaft (umm, not so obvious). This service from the reputable parts place in town. The four day delay in returning bad parts and waiting for correct parts was nothing. The half shaft I got was for the 1.8L and trust me, the differential side shaft/splines are 1/16" bigger than that of the 1.9 L. Try making that fit when you think it's only the circ-clip not sitting down nicely.

Learn this - don't trust the Grade 8 drop out working the parts booth! He can't read.
 

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Re: Lesson Learned: Check Your Parts and Trust Your Instinct

highanddry said:
So it came time to replace my driver's side outer CV joint (1991 1.9 L, standard). If you plan to do this job yourself, please do yourself a favout and read my experience below.

The little Haynes manual says the toughest part will be getting the half shaft out of the transmission. That's a crock. It took the better part of a day to get the shaft out of the hub and I used eveything imaginable. It only took 15 minutes with a six foot pry bar to get the shaft out of the differential gear. Also, Haynes says to drop the crossmember. There is no need to do this - so don't do it! Despite copius amounts of Mooove-It, I shredded the tack welds on of the backside of front crossmember-to-frame bolts. This doesn't sound so bad unless you've seen the unthinkable shape of these bolts (round head on the tacked, non-visible side) and there complete lack of accessibility. Some significant steel work is still to be done before I feel confident that the front engine mount is braced adequately.

Here's the main point. Of the parts I ordered, I got the wrong hub, wrong wheel bearing, wrong bearing snap ring (all obvious) and wrong half-shaft (umm, not so obvious). This service from the reputable parts place in town. The four day delay in returning bad parts and waiting for correct parts was nothing. The half shaft I got was for the 1.8L and trust me, the differential side shaft/splines are 1/16" bigger than that of the 1.9 L. Try making that fit when you think it's only the circ-clip not sitting down nicely.

Learn this - don't trust the Grade 8 drop out working the parts booth! He can't read.
I dont know how simular the zx2 is , but I can get the passenger side axle out in 10 mins and add another 5 mins and I can have the driver's side out...you can either do it the safe way with a axle fork or my way, use a long ass screw driver and put it in the passenger side around the pinion and tap with a rubber mallet...then go around to the driver side and it should fall out :p
 

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yeh because thats retarded as hell.

you realize how much damage you could do that way??

It may take longer, but you know what, thats how it was meant to be. to use spurts of pry power to get the thing out. If that was the safe and easy way, every manual in the world would tell you to do it that way. But they dont, and they dont for a reason.

Just like you should never pound a bolt out of a hole...because you will cornflour the end and you'll have to re die the bolt or replace it.

You will fuck up your transmission if you continue to pound the axle out, i promise you that. And i would appreciate if you never tell someone to do it that way again. Because if he messed up his transmission because of what you said, you give our forums a bad name. Like they say. One unhappy person tells his friends who teill their friends and never ends does the vicious cycle. I have only been here for a year +. but i call this place my own and feoa didnt get its popularity because of crappy advice. Please keep your mouth shut if you plan to tell ppl how to do things the wrong way.

btw, its sad if it takes you 10 mins to get the pass side out.

Also, you dont need an axle fork, just a long prybar.

Sorry for the negative post guys, just had to do say something
 
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