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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just stripped the nut/bolt on the rear transmission mount because I didn't have a 1/2 inch 17mm socket on hand, only the 3/8 inch 17mm socket so I used a Standard Size socket that was ALMOST the same size. It was just a tad bit larger. After stripping the nut I went and bought the right socket. It was too late. It could not hold the nut because of the stripping and only stripped it further. As a matter of fact, I then used the correct socket on the front mount and I managed to take it off but only with a breaker bar and noticed that I was stripping that one too but with the correct 1/2 17mm socket. How in the world am I going to take off the ruined one? Someone send me a picture of the tool you would use. It has to be long because I need all the leverage possible because of how tight they are on. If it's a tool similar in size to a 3/8 ratchet then it isn't going to work. My dad loaned me a vice-grip made to turn from the flat sides of the nut only and it was too short so there was not enough leverage/strength to take it off.
 

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vise-grips work miracles... if you really clamp hard (I almost broke the bones in my hand from squeezing so hard once), you can "dig into" the metal and get enough grip to get it off..


if worse comes to worse, and my feeble mind serves me right, you should be able to cut those bolts...
 

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if you have a torch.........heat up the bolt and then hammer on a 16mm socket. TRY not to get the case, otherwise it wont do any good. Then once you've hammered on the 16mm socket, wait about 5 mins to let the metal cool, then try to get it off.
 

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same

i used a mokey wrench if i were in your case....thing is when i was yanking my engine and tranny for a rebuild i was using an impact gun...made it easier but in your case i'd use a monkey wrech, a vise grip works wonders if you got the strength to grip it/clamp it down tight....hope this helps.....
 

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You can try to just pound a 16 mm 12-point on to the nut. And turn it. If it slips pound a smaller one on( it helps to try standard for it as well)
Other then that you can grind it flat on two sides until it is almost completely through. Then hit it with a cold chisel to split it and remove.
Striped bolts are just half the fun of fixin cars (lol). It really helps to have a impact gun. Even an electric one. They are worth there weight in gold around a car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Vise grips would be good but the problem is they are not long and thick enough to give leverage. Note how I said I used the correct one on the front mount and even though I got it off I almost ruined that nut also. I was only able to make that nut move by buying a 1/2 inch ratched socket and then using a breaker bar because even the 1/2 inch ratchet was not long enough. There's now way to fit a tube into the vise grip and have it work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What's a fair price on an impact gun? No, not the best impact gun, I want the best price for a "good enough" impact gun. I will barely be using one. It's like when I bought Craftsman and now buy Auto Parts store tools. The cheap ones work just as well and never break on me. Expensive tools are for people who work on cars regularly. I only now buy Craftsman or Snap-On, etc tools when I can't find a particular tool anywhere else. First answer my previous post, please.
 

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personally....i wouldnt buy an impact unless it was air. Electric, from my experience, just dont have much torque...But like i said, thats from my experience. I'm sure someone will say different soon enough
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I kind of figured an electric one wasn't even close. Unfortunately, along with an air impact gun comes the need to buy a compressor. What's the minimum power you need to run the gun?
 

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I'm not sure about the impact gun question, but I can tell you that they're insanely handy to have when working on old rusty cars. I just use the one at the auto club...
This is (I think) the same one as I use at the auto club. It's from 1945 or something, but it works great.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... gory=43988

Anyway, have you tried using a "cheater bar" with the vise grips? It's just a section of pipe placed over the handle of the vise grip to increase the lever arm distance and thus increase total torque about the nut.
 

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I don't know if in your state of disassembly if this would be an option, but when my exhaust manifold nuts stripped, we welded a larger sized nut to the stripped one. Then used a 6 point box end wrench on the new nut to remove the stripped one.
 

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Hey there.

Just a random suggestion, because I dont know where you are at this point. Since the nut has already been destroyed, have you considered using a nutcracker? Here is a link to the craftsman one I am thinking about.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product. ... site=CRAFT

This way you dont need to worry about overwhelming torque. I dont know if it will help at all, but its worth a shot!

~Bug
 

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My bad about my cheater bar suggestion... I forgot you said that you couldn't get a pipe on it.

For starters, I recommend soaking the thing in the PB Blaster stuff. It's spray on stuff that helps release seized nuts.
 

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this just occured to me...I've swapped out my tranny before...Where exactly is this nut u cant get to? Cuz i never had to worry about "space" being a problem? Only time i used a breaker bar was on the cross member bolts. those are the only ones that are 17mm
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I never said I can't get to it. I just said that the nut on the mount bolt is on mega hard. The crossmember/support bar has already been taken off. The bolts that gave you a hard time on it did not give me a hard time at all. After the support is removed, the front and rear lower mounts are now exposed. The rear one is the one that has its nut stripped. It's the nut for the bolt that goes right through the center of the mount. Like I said, the front one was just as tough but I had purchased the correct socket after seeing what happened with the rear mount. I managed to get that nut off and came close to stripping it even with the correct socket. That's how hard someone has tightened those things. Either the factory, or the last person to put the mounts back on put those things on that tight.
 

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If it is just the bolt that goes through the rubber mount( the center bolt)
Just cut it off. And then pound the bolt out the other side. But you will have to let the motor and transmission drop down a bit to clear the sub frame beside it.
As far as cutting it goes, a good small grinder, die grinder, or old faithful ( hammer and chisel) you will have to get another bolt from a junk yard or the dealer as it has a small plate or ecentric on it to keep it from spinning.
Or you can be creatine and make your own with a welder.
 
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