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Aweswome forum here, thanks for putting it together. mutual aid groups like this are America (and people in general) at their finest.



Drove it about 30 miles the first day, then it started stumbling and then died. It cooled off for an hour and a half waiting for AAA and then when AAA showed up, it started! so I had him follow me with the flatbed and it died again after a half a block.

Dropped at my house, starts and runs fine today. Do not want to leave the house with it now, I cannot afford to get stranded again.

I'll keep it if it is a simple fix. Any suggestions?


I have scoured the board here and come up with a list of stuff to try:

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Boiled down list of things to check/fix/clean/replace

a GOOD general tune up will go a LONG ways. What it does is eliminate the "possibilities" and help narrow the search. In addition...most of these cars need it anyway.

MAF plugged in and working clean MAF with MAF cleaner..,


IAC Idle Air Contol Valve. on the top part of the throttle body. They get sticky with old age. Sometimes you can squirt throttle body cleaner into them and they will free up.



Vac leaks,

PCV system /elbow ( just grab a couple of them from the JY or electreal tape, works good. about every month I have to put another layer on.) ,

needing Tune-up, or

sometimes poor Eng
Compartment grounds.


TB throttle body


I believe 90% of the idle, power, oil leaks, and stalling problems are related to bad intake gaskets, especially with no codes or check engine light. Intake Manifold
Gasket. Threw a new one on and it really helped.

CID sensor ( Cylinder Identification ) sensor is also known as the cam position sensor. It's installed in the side of the cylinder head just below the throttle body. see if it's bad.
An ohm meter will tell you if the sensor itself
The speed sensor makes your speedo work.


IF you lose either of these signals to the PCM, the computer won't know when to fire your injectors or what pulse width it should use to keep the enigne running. SO, it cuts the fuel off and the engine dies.

ecm and fuel pump relays. While tapping on the inboard relay the engine sputtered. Everytime I tapped on it, it did it.


changing the O2 sensor at the base of the radiator on the exhaust pipe. If its really rusted on you'll need the special tool for it, mine came off with a standard vice grip.
recommended replacement every 75k miles


tear in the rubber boot that goes in between the breather box and the intake, sucked air in after the maf it through everything off. You had to keep on the gas to keep it going. Luckly a good wrap of electrical tape got me going until I could get a boot from a junk yard.

the intake gasket was leaking on the far passenger side and sucking air in. It made a whiring noise. There was a lot of stuff to remove to replace the gasket so I did another back yard fix and packed the leak with RTV let it dry for a couple of hours and then smeared another round on it. Worked like a champ and that was 2 years ago.


PCV elbow replaced , Check the vacuum solenoid that goes to the emissions cannister for leaks. You can get vacuum leaks at devices that use vacuum, not just the hoses.

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UPDATE 21 AUG 2009

Replaced the EEC relay $15 no more problems. :D I learned about the EEC relay here.

Great forum!

thanks
 

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1995 LX wagon 139.000

just bot my also put it on a trailer .. wont start .. bad head gasket .. paid $500 ..it was a Maid PRO wagon.. stickers all over .. finally see the white only ladies driving it had it on Craigs list for $500 no bites .. so fix it next weekend... inside is great and out has no rust !!!!! go escorts
 
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