FEOA Forums banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey-
i got the 2.0 and am wondering exactly what i will need to make the swap. i was unsure what you said in your how to about the clutch and flywheel i would need. i would imagine i would need the clutch and fly from my 95 lx. could you just confirm that? And what gaskets will i need: exhaust, transmission, ect.? i searched the entire site and i cant find the motor mount mod. Could you how to do that and or is it worth it to buy new mount bushings. ive never made an engine swap before so im a little nervous and want to make sure i have everything i need before i pull the 1.9. Thank you very much
RYAN
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,421 Posts
Sorry it took me so long to respond, I only stop in here every now and then.
You will need to put your 1.9 flywheel on the 2.0 motor, and use a 1.9 clutch.
There is a possiblity to use the 2.0 fly wheel with the 2.0 pressure plate and a 1.9 throwout bearing with a 90-99 Turbo Eclipe clutch disc to make the 9" 2.0 clutch work with the 1.9 tranny. But I havent tried this combo yet but all the sizes match up, it will make for a strong combo.
The motor mount mod and motor swap and SPI controller directions is over at ERDT http://erdtforum.teamzx2.com/viewforum.php?f=45
All you do is fill in the motor mounts with 3M Automotive Window sealer, it will harden up the mounts so you get less wheel hop, and thats what kills trannys.
You will need T-stat and gasket, PVC tube gasket, exsast mani gasket, I think thats it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Jeff, don’t forget to tell him about the EGR tube and some plugs for the EGR and exhaust manifold holes. The two threaded holes are a little bigger than 1/2" NPT and those size plugs kind of work. I am still searching for a better fit.

Ryan, I just did this swap this weekend. Took me 20 hours, with a lot of time wasted on trying to pull fuel lines and getting the engine in without aligning the clutch. (forgot to do it at first) Should take you about 15 if you don’t get caught on stupid errors.

So make sure you have the fuel line pullers (a thin flat tip screw driver and a friend with pliers can work sometimes) and clutch alignment tool (a round breaker bar handle can work here as well).

I couldn’t find a place that sold a PCV gasket so I had to use the old one, which was luckily still in one piece.

Make sure you have a friend to help you or you will be out of luck and pissed off. Getting the engine aligned with the transmission is a tough job.

When I first started my engine, it burned oil but it is all gone now so be prepared for a little of that. I had my engine shipped so I think that is what caused most of that.

The engine is running pretty well right now but I am chasing down a vacuum leak that’s causing the engine to stall at normal idle, I think it is between the TB and the MAF so I will making a new intake soon.

Hopes that helps some, and thanks Jeff you did a great job with your step by step.

Matthew
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,421 Posts
Escort_KXT said:
Jeff, don't forget to tell him about the EGR tube and some plugs for the EGR and exhaust manifold holes. The two threaded holes are a little bigger than 1/2" NPT and those size plugs kind of work. I am still searching for a better fit.

Ryan, I just did this swap this weekend. Took me 20 hours, with a lot of time wasted on trying to pull fuel lines and getting the engine in without aligning the clutch. (forgot to do it at first) Should take you about 15 if you don't get caught on stupid errors.

So make sure you have the fuel line pullers (a thin flat tip screw driver and a friend with pliers can work sometimes) and clutch alignment tool (a round breaker bar handle can work here as well).

I couldn't find a place that sold a PCV gasket so I had to use the old one, which was luckily still in one piece.

Make sure you have a friend to help you or you will be out of luck and pissed off. Getting the engine aligned with the transmission is a tough job.

When I first started my engine, it burned oil but it is all gone now so be prepared for a little of that. I had my engine shipped so I think that is what caused most of that.

The engine is running pretty well right now but I am chasing down a vacuum leak that's causing the engine to stall at normal idle, I think it is between the TB and the MAF so I will making a new intake soon.

Hopes that helps some, and thanks Jeff you did a great job with your step by step.

Matthew
I'm allways for getting about EGR, sorry.
I also wasted many hours because I tried to aline the clutch with out a alinemant tool, once I fixed that problem (uesd the tool) the motor and tranny slid right together. (thats in the "how to")
I did have a fuel line remover tool, (its in my "how to" as a required tool), just took about 2 seconds to remove.
The PVC gasket in only avaible at the dealer (I think I coverd PVC gasket in the how to).
I'm glad I can be a help, I think If I were to do this swap again, I could do it in 8 hours.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Electronic controller for SPI motor

OK, I'm calling around dialing for '97 2.0 motors. How do I solve the issue with the SPI motor that diverts the airflow from the small intake port to the large one????? My car's a '95 LX without OBDII so I'll need to design something to control the airflow, right? Help us ObiWan Jeffscort, you're our only hope!!!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,421 Posts
Re: Electronic controller for SPI motor

chrismiller said:
OK, I'm calling around dialing for '97 2.0 motors. How do I solve the issue with the SPI motor that diverts the airflow from the small intake port to the large one????? My car's a '95 LX without OBDII so I'll need to design something to control the airflow, right? Help us ObiWan Jeffscort, you're our only hope!!!
It does'nt matter matter if the Second Gen is OBD1 or OBD2 either way you'll need a SPI controller.

Here is the swap "how to"
http://erdtforum.teamzx2.com/viewtopic. ... d62e3f39d5

And the controller "how to"
(Thank you Escort_KXT)
http://escortgt.cqhost.net/modules.php? ... 87384f9b9c
Please read all the way from start to finish, every thing is there you'll need to know.
If you have any questions after reading both of them let me know and I'll be happy to go over any thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Thanks Jeff!

By the way, my car already has a tach. Do any of you 'scort tuning whizzes have an idea about how to do the SPI controller without having to buy a new tach? How could we create an electronic counting circuit to detect the rpm's and then trigger the relay at a set rpm? Any thoughts???

Thanks everyone for your help. It is so cool it is to drop in for a little DIY help!!!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,421 Posts
Re: Thanks Jeff!

chrismiller said:
By the way, my car already has a tach. Do any of you 'scort tuning whizzes have an idea about how to do the SPI controller without having to buy a new tach? How could we create an electronic counting circuit to detect the rpm's and then trigger the relay at a set rpm? Any thoughts???

Thanks everyone for your help. It is so cool it is to drop in for a little DIY help!!!
I'd love to make somthing like that, you would need a fixed set clock pulse, and than a pulse from a cylender, and compare the two untill they become =, but....
It would be a lot easyer just to pick up a after market tach. Get a used one to save some money
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
I am using an MSD DIS 2 to control mine. But unless you are going to turbo you probably wont want to go that route. MSD also makes an RPM activated switch PN 8950 it requires you to use the RPM modules (not included) PN 8743 is a pack of 5 RPM modules from 3000 to 3800 in 200 RPM increments. They are for sale at http://www.summitracing.com for $59.95 and $23.69 respectively. I also saw an MSD RPM switch kit for $69.95 I am not sure if that includes RPM modules of your choice or what but you can find that out by calling them. Hope that helps.

Matthew
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Escort_KXT said:
I am using an MSD DIS 2 to control mine. But unless you are going to turbo you probably wont want to go that route. MSD also makes an RPM activated switch PN 8950 it requires you to use the RPM modules (not included) PN 8743 is a pack of 5 RPM modules from 3000 to 3800 in 200 RPM increments. They are for sale at http://www.summitracing.com for $59.95 and $23.69 respectively. I also saw an MSD RPM switch kit for $69.95 I am not sure if that includes RPM modules of your choice or what but you can find that out by calling them. Hope that helps.

Matthew
Thanks to Matthew!!!!!!! :cheers:
Summit has their own Rpm activated switch that looks like it will do the trick for less than $50. Whoooooo-hoooooo!

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... M%2D830449
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,421 Posts
wickedwagon2 said:
i didnt need the spi controller, i just removed the butterflies and slimmd down the rod in ther. worked for me!
This is what Adam did to Tammys car, he removed the secondaires, but he was'nt happy with the performance, so he put them back in and said it gained a lot of low end power.
Both me and Crankor messed around with them and we all argee it's better with the working secondaires left in the manifold.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top