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Discussion Starter #1
Hey there, I posted to the fact someone had a smoking problem. I replaced the head gasket in my 1.9 a year ago. At the time I didn't think to find a machine shop and have the head tested. Now I get sweet smoke every now and then. I think I need to replace the head but I want to wait a while. Is there a *(starting to laugh...) actual additive, that can help slow it down? (laughing harder now...)
I have heard all the "old timer" tricks from eggs to cork dust, but wondered if there was a genie in a bottle out there to help me make it to next tax season?

I thank y'all...

EDIT ADDENDUM: I did notice when I did the top end last year that cylinder 3 had a pool of coolant. The car has been off the road since 08 and the smoking is lessening when I go out to start it, which has been a lot in the past 3 weeks as I have decided to put it back together. This was to be a racing bomber but I am rebuilding it to be a second car. Do you think I didn't run the car enough to seat the gasket? Could I re-torque the bolts?

Ok, here is my last edit...I went out this morning to try again. A week ago it started and didn't puff anything. Today I get a huge cloud of smoke/vapor. Could there be a relation to moisture? I live in NY and over the past week It has been raining day after day. On other days I have no problem. I don't have that much concern, but I planned on inspecting it in a few weeks and just spent $200 on all new brake parts. Please help !?!?!?!?!
 

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NO.

It may be the intake gasket between #3 and #4. There is a coolant port between the two, in the head that if/when the intake gasket goes out...it allows the coolant to be sucked back through the #3 or #4 intake runner and back into the head. I would first check the intake gasket, before ripping the head apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I will check that. Thanks. I also did a Google for the problem and I may have a leak in my intake boot, between the box and TB, many BMW owners get moisture that way. It stopped raining two days ago and the problem is gone. I have rebuilt many engines (mostly 8s) so I think I used the right torque and when I did it I used a complete gasket kit and replaced the intake. I will keep an eye on it though. Just finished the interior an hour ago. Just waiting for the steering gear boot from online to arrive and I will be good to go.

Thanks again...
 

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BrianNY1992LX said:
I have rebuilt many engines (mostly 8s) so I think I used the right torque and when I did it I used a complete gasket kit and replaced the intake.
Did you replace the head bolts when you changed the gasket?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I got a full top end kit. New bolts and gaskets for everything. I also re-torqued the head bolts after the appropriate "brake in" that the Haynes manual told me to do.

I checked the intake like Dave8338 suggested, but that was a new gasket as well. Like I mentioned, other vehicle posts suggested checking my intake boot for leaks or perhaps it was just excess H2O in the pipes.

It was raining here for over a week. That and the car sat for nearly a year after the top rebuild and before I started to put it all back together a few weeks ago.

I moved it around quite a bit in the past few days and when parked on an incline and left running; I could see a rusty puddle of water on the ground under the tip. I may have excess water trapped because I haven't run it on the street, or let the exhaust get hot enough to burn it all out.

But no clouds of smoke. Just a quick puff and it was gone.

I have to replace the steering gear boots and when I get it on the road this month I will keep track of it. Also,I am not loosing any coolant. The levels are the same as before I parked it last year.

I may have over-reacted because after spending a few hundred clams and all the time to put it back together (had to rebuild the multi-function switch too); seeing a cloud of smoke would dishearten anybody...

Thanks, and happy motoring...
 

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It could be over heeting and blowing your gaskets. Twas my problem. The heater core pluggs up in these easy and our cooling fan wont kick on till late. I finnaly let mine idle for a while and n ot beeing able to affort a ir thermomitor I got the meet thermomitor from the kitchen and held it on the radiator fins where I would net get burned. It went to 220 degrees the fan is suppoused to kick on low 207 and high is 215 I belive. Your test if it kicks on late is to bypass the heatercore and do the same if it tests out to high then it is the thermostat housing. it is tests out lower you need a new heater core. annother eassy check is to take the thermostat housing off and shack it if there is a clickin from the inside the check ball is good if not its froze up not letting flow to the heater lines. my core was full of gasket maker and man was it a mess. cracked head burnt exhaust valves blown head gasket blown intake gasket and the valve stem seals were gone. Car still ran though just with no power
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Way to post in on a month old thread...

The problem was remedied and by the looks of your post; I would not let you within twenty yards of my car(s). Your diagnosis methods are crude and data all wrong...

Shake the thermo? LOL...there's no ball in a thermostat doofus.

And your spelling downright stinks...
 

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google it go talk to a tech. look at the parts they all clearly state there is a check ball in them. And these are methods used at ford XD though I'm not here to argue I'm here to help. If you don't like it then shut up and do it your own way. I'm sure to several others this makes sense. And the thread may be a month old but when some one is looking for a solution this may come up XD cheers
 

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He is right, the thermostat housing does have a valve in it that will rattle if you shake it. If it doesn't rattle then you need another housing. The thermostat itself does not have a ball in it.

Can't afford an IR thermometer? You can get one from Harbor freight tools for about $25.
 

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if you have leak in your motor they have this stuff that is 60 dollars a quart and is basicly tire slime for your engine, it wil seal any leaks
 

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zzyzzx said:
BrianNY1992LX said:
I thank y'all...
You liive in NY and talk like that?

:eek:
Doesn't surprise me at all. There is quite a "country influence" where I live in NY.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
First off my friends say y'all as a friendly gesture. Secondly do some research on thermostats.

"The Thermostat
The thermostat consists of a brass and copper body that usually fits in between a radiator hose and the water neck. In the center of the thermostat is a "gate" that opens when it reaches a certain temperature. There is a ball of wax in the middle of the unit, which when cold remains solid. When the coolant from the engine reaches a certain temperature, the ball of wax liquefies, allowing the gate to open. When open, the thermostat passes the coolant from the block and through the radiator to be cooled. Once the vehicle's engine is shut off for a time, the thermostat cools down, and the ball of wax goes back to being a solid. Many thermostats open when the coolant reaches 180 degrees, but colder and hotter units are available, depending on the application and vehicle recommendations."

No check balls to the adapted theory of how a check ball works in a thermostat. Temperature rings and thermodynamic wax are what work the magic...

Thirdly...y'all can bite me!
 

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Hey Brian... if you took the time to actually READ his post, you'd realize that he's talking about the THERMOSTAT HOUSING, not the thermostat itself.

On these Escorts, there is a bypass valve built into the housing assembly that tends to stick, especially if the car has been overheated at one time.

Come on, man... we're trying to help. You're not going to make many friends here if you keep putting down our advise and telling us to bite you.

How about you just go buy a civic, and go hang out with the ricers on the honda boards...
 

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Yeah, he only mentioned the thermostat housing, not the thermostat itself. The thermostat housing DOES have a "ball" valve in it that will rattle if you shake the housing. If you don't believe me I have a 1.9 thermostat housing sitting on a shelf and if I shake it it does rattle. Need me to make a video?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
How about you realize this thread is a month old and the problem was fixed and the car SOLD and his spelling indicated his education was mailed to him from Croatia.

I haven't posted here because I SOLD the messcort. Therefore the only reason I post now is to deal with people like you that want to start things and have no life other than watching internet posts to chime in on.

Stick your fingers in your own pie...it is you who perpetuate the idiocy we see here.
 

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If you don't have the car anymore and obviously hate us then why are you still here?

acolley must not have seen how old the thread was and while his spelling wasn't the greatest he spoke the truth. Then you come along and call him and idiot and say that he knows nothing when YOU obliviously didn't read his post correctly in the first place. Then you continue to insist that your right when your obviously wrong.

Now your accusing me of trying to start something just because I want to make sure true information is provided, acknowledged, and understood?!

And I do not perpetuate the idiocy on this forum. posclunker, madbrad, and zzyzzx do that.

As far as I'm concerned you can "bite me."
 

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Even though its a month old some of us do search. And this would help get an answer.
And sorry about the spelling. Jeez. But most mechanics don't have great spelling or writing like doctors XD
 
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