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Discussion Starter #1
OK, so to start with I've checked/replaced the following.

oxy sensor new and good
vaf working properly and tuned up
IAC works fine
just cleaned the TB
replaced the fuel pressure regulator
replaced the radiator fan temp sender
replaced the ECU temp sender
replaced both the FPR and VICS controllers that mount on the side of the intake
no vacuum leaks at all!
TPS is adjusted so when you touch the gas just a little the contacts at close throttle are not touching, manual so it's not like a dimmer switch style.

ok I think that's all that needs to be covered for my problem.

OK the problem I am having is intermittent misses where the check engine light comes on for a blip of a second and I lose power, it goes off I get power back. so I replaced and checked all those listed above and even replaced the head gasket, and intake gaskets!

the CEL will flash on and off and cut power and get it back sometimes for a mile driving cruising or sitting at a light it'll spit and sputter or accelerating *most annoying because the car jerks like you're slamming the gas and getting out really fast* so what I did is I disconnected the VICS from the controller and put them straight to the vacuum canister that goes to the VICS to keep the VICS closed, disconnected the wire connector to the VICS controller, and now, she runs GREAT and fine. OH and the CEL would SOMETIMES come on when I was under a load it'd kick on around 4k rpm right when the VICS open and I'd have the power of a 1.9 scort above 4k rpm, then sometimes VICS would open like normal and I'd GO GO.

ok that's kinda all over trying to explain it, but what do you guys think that could be? sounds like something is wrong with my VICS controller or a sensor that tells them when to open, the computer is what tells the VICS controller when to dump vacuum so the butterflies open right?

I've watched the butterflies where they open and close and while the CEL was flickering they stayed closed they never blipped open or anything, so what could this be? I've TRIED EVERYTHING, maybe one of you guys will have a bit of a better idea to point me towards/try, pull a part is cheap shoot me ideas :D :)

THANKS GUYS, I know one of you will have an idea.
 

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Hey man! Is the pivot for the VCIS sticky at all? Causing intermittent "hang-ups". Or is the vacuum diaphragm bad? Maybe, there is build up on the butterflies or their bores that might be causing this. I have a light, occasional miss at idle that I blame failing injectors on, but this problem is more severe. I have never had the CEL on before in my GT with 192,000!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hmm well the butterflies move smooth at the diagram I've felt them and they feel fine.

this problem is at idle speed and high rpm both, so not sure. oh and the intake hose is tight and not leaking I duct taped it all!

so could it be bad injectors? because they sure do fit good in your pocket at the local PAP, should I grab a set?! toss them in, they are 1.50 each so not a huge cost.

man that GT of yours behaves!

oh and the vacuum diagram held vacuum with the engine off for 3 hours, pretty sure it's fine

I'll feel the vics pivot tomorrow morning and make sure it's totally smooth through the whole range!

THANKS! :D

*edit* forgot to mention the cap, rotor and plug wires and plugs all new. bad coil?
 

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Whst is the CEL code?
Is the coil wire on tight? I had a fairly new one that kept wanting to fall off and the car ran like you were discribing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
the CEL code won't come up, I leave the car running and do the whole ten and ground terminals on the diagnostic port the check engine light just comes on and goes off. it acted even worse today It's been CELing on me since I got it back in may lol, kinda steady sometimes it won't come on at all, today it was on for about 3 miles it just stayed on that's the first time it's done that, and it did that with VICS disconnected and vacuumed closed so the VICS butteries were closed.

so I just hooked the VICS back up and the CEL came on again so I pulled over popped the hood real fast and it was still CELing on me and the VICS remained closed.

so no code would pull, VICS seem to be working just fine, oxy sensor is new, and my A/F gauge is reading lean/ideal not lean to rich, it's a narrow band gauge I think, autozone cheapy! my 1.9 scort would cycle from lean to rich, GT only goes lean to the middle idea 14.7 parts air 1 part fuel. which is the PERFECT a/f mixture, then it goes lean from there, could my VAF be outta adjustment?! I've tweaked with it some in the past should I turn the 8mm screw with the 14mm nut on it in or out? I know how to do all that stuff.

coil wire is newish and clicked on TIGHT, on the coil and cap, all plug wires are good no breaks. distributor cap and rotor all new and not broken.

I so don't get it soooooo I'm doing this right now.... :wall: so confusing I don't know, thinking about throwing a set of junkyard injectors at it that look good and clean (lower miles ones) yeah I junk yard king I know what to look for :D YAY

thanks for the suggestions, I think I'ma pick up a coil too and toss that in there just to satisfy my check list of parts thrown at it! :wall:

maybe it's time for this.... :assault: :rambo: :plzdie: ha ha it'll be worth it when it's fixed! like I said this is not a new problem been going on since I got it, could it be the little valve thingy that's under the upper intake manifold that has to do with the IAC that has coolant running through it along with the IAC?! can that cause it to act like it's vacuum leaking like and losing power? then seal up and work just fine when the car gets HOT?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
hey guys, could a deriveter vavle cause the CEL issues, today it was on for most of my driving and it almost caused me to get rear ended because it took a dump when I got in it some, I was like "oh plenty of room" *clutch out get going stomp it 1/2, DUMP* no power at all let off, floored it, and it burned the fronts up a little, it was a close one pulling out onto a well traveled highway going from a stop to 45, she got there but she took a momentary dump, could the deriveter valve under the upper intake that has coolant run to it cause this issue?! I'm about to throw one in just because that's the ONLY thing I can think of unless it's the electronic part in the distributor?!

any input would be greatly appreciated guys :) I'ma be driving the car a good 300 miles in 2 weeks and would like to have this issue fixed so I know she'll make it with out taking a dump on me, whatever work has to be done I am ready to just do it, so toss me some ideas to at least try :)

thank you guys!
 

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I hate to say it, but our ECU's are pretty stupid. If it is throwing codes then there is only a short list of stuff to throw it. I wondering if the parts store gave you got the wrong sizr rotor for the distriutor and it's flopping around on you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ok so it's a possible ECU, thanks for another thing to look at! and pull a part is 8.50 for an ECU I think, cheap!

the cap and rotor are a perfect fit, the rotor had good resistance when going on and it doesn't wanna move, the cap screws on good and tight too, it feels like the VAF is being disconnected when this problem happens, the car was in a wreck maybe the wires that go to the VAF are grounding out from being pinched?! OOOO, ok I'ma go check that out RIGHT NOW ha ha, I just now thought of that!

hey thanks onegimp I appreciate your input! I am like Dr. House and need ideas bounced off me to go off on my own tangent hehehe.

I'll let you know the results, I'ma trace the whole VAF wire harness, and gonna hit PAP tonight and pick up a coil, and deriveter valve too, it's cheap, I'll also get an ECU and just put the ECU in first, if that is no change I'll just take it back :)

THANK YOU! all of you!
 

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Escort92Man said:
ok so it's a possible ECU, thanks for another thing to look at! and pull a part is 8.50 for an ECU I think, cheap!
I just said the ECU's are stupid, I never said it was a problem, well not unless you had a heater core leakly recently.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well I fully agree on the stupid ECU, not sure if it's the original heater core or not, it doesn't leak but I don't know if it has in the past. the guy said the car didn't have heat till he took the heater core hoses off and blew it out with compressed air and it shot chunks out. I think maybe that coulda caused a leak but she don't leak now..... uhhhg weird.

I just wanna throw parts at it now and just see you know? if it's a "IT COULD BE" I'm chucking parts at it, my PAP has a 30 day return policy anyway no questions asked :) which makes it nice for throwing parts, I threw a VAF at her, same symptoms. so it isn't the VAF.

I should just megasquirt it ;) that'd be a fun project to tackle sometime :D

yeah see I just don't know much history on this car so the core coulda leaked and caused this issue, it's been doing it since I got the car, specifically when I replaced the o2 sensor which was right when I got the car a week after or so. I put a cheapy bosch in it, hated it, returned it, then put a good spensive denso OEM one in, same symptoms.

meh...... time to go drive her and see what she does today I'ma mess with that VAF wire harness and see if she's pinched off somewhere I'm sure that'd cause an issue.

oh btw after 5th gear swap driving the tickers off of it around town and doing a good share highway I got 35.7 mpg!!!! I got 34 MAX before driving her EASY all highway. see that's another odd thing she gets great gas mileage, just gets stinky when the CEL comes on and blips. when she blips the A/F gauge slams to lean no matter where it was before.

darnedest thing.....

thanks again for your help at this point even if the ECU is just stupid I'm going to throw one at it and if it continues to be the issue I'll return it, thank you Onegimp! I appreciate it!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ok I figured it out!!!

finally got the CEL to stay on, jumped the ten and ground terminals, flashed 3 flashes so that's code 03 which is no cylinder ID sensor signal, the plug that hooks up to the distributor there's a ring that spins with the rotor in there and a little magnetic pick up, it's dead, so I'ma PAP that up and problem solved HOPEFULLY, but that is one of the things I have not done yet!

:D WOOOOOOT
 

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Discussion Starter #13
onegimp you were || that close literally to being right on the money!

thank you all for your help and she's fixed, I opened it up tonight and wow, I didn't know that old engine of 180ishk miles had that left in it, I can toast and roast so many ppl now if I chose to!

yeah good old junkyard, that cost me 2.50 man. oh I'm so happy it's fixed it runs great, it has a nice low rumble at idle now with the good rod in there and good sensor now, it doesn't take a dump anymore!

yeah very very close with that rotor call man, thanks a bunch! that rotor make me re look at the distributor and then it CELed on me for 5 miles highway stayed on, I got to the guys house I was going to and left it running, jumped the 10 and ground terminals and it flashed 3 times, that's a 03 code which is the cylinder ID sensor signal, bataboom batabing!

thanks everyone, especially onegimp!

case closed FINALLY, been going on since may when I got her
 
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