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Discussion Starter #1
Removed so far:

rear seats
rear seat belts
rear interior trim
rear speakers
rear washer fluid bottle
rear door handles
headliner
roof rack and runners
carpet
most sound deadening
steering wheel counter weight
various other trim pieces






And this is just a start! There is still more I need to do like replacing the seats and front seat belts with a harness, etc.

But I will NOT remove:

A/C
stereo
rear wiper (it's rally-riffic!)
center consol
dash board (well, at least the surface, maybe stuff underneath)
door panels (until I can replace them with custom aluminum)

Going in most likely: roll cage. Why? Just for kicks.

PEACE!
 

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looks like you only have front speakers now.

did you weigh the car before hand to get an idea how much weight you saved?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Not certain what the correct curb weight of this car is, the title says 2419lbs, other websites vary around 2434lbs. I've est. that I've been able to remove about 80-90lbs (remove the car jack and spare: 95-105lbs). My goal is to drop 200lbs total, I've got a ways to go but I think it's doable.
 

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you can remove some of the metal from the inside of the doors, lots if you don't care if they still roll up and down.
 

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heck, do like Carl and remove all the dash down to the main support bar... door panels, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, I think I've already mentioned in this post that I did not want to remove the dash or the door panels....yet ;)

But pextor, I here ya! I'll peek behind the door panels at least and see what damage I could do. But I do want to make full use of my windows, though I'm not sure if some of the metal could come out...we'll see.

Also, I'm in the process of removing the side molding, which is taking a while since it's a sticky job, and I do not want to ruin the paint! But the one side I did take off was like 2lbs, so another 4lbs when done!
 

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Once, in the 40s or something, teenager Peter Egan, who later became an automotive journalist and wrote about this so that's how I know it, bought some old a$$ Dodge or something, and he and his buddy stripped it aof everything they could think of, so they could go racing and have an good P/W ratio, but found the car had lifted several inches, and was rendered nearly undriveable by dint of its bounding and swaying all over the place while in motion, and ignoring all steering input.
That was one sentence LOL.
The lesson was that the suspension was designed around the intended weight. If you lose enough weight, you'll need to redo the suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
LOL!!!! Wow, that's the first reason I've heard for not doing a weight reduction, besides lose in comfort!

I don't think that's going to be a problem since I think I'm riding on the old tired factory suspension, if anything I'm doing it a favor! But if I was actually going to RACE it, I wouldn't be using the factory suspension anyway, even without the weight reduction.

But let me list the few added bonuses of weight reduction:

Better acceleration
Better handling (on the street anyways, unless you have aftermarket suspension, then it really doesn't matter)
Better fuel economy
Better braking
Better top speed
Reduce ware on the engine
Reduce ware on the tires
Reduce ware on the brakes
Reduce ware on the suspension
More load capacity

I might have missed something.
 

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It's WEAR not WARE. What happened to the edumication system?

By better braking do you mean shorter stopping distance? Because yeah that's a real good by product.
Top speed, I'm not sure. If it isn't limited by programming, it's aerodynamics more than weight that stops the increase of speed. The way to overcome drag is by adding power. I don't think reducing weight will do that.
 

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MadBrad said:
It's WEAR not WARE. What happened to the edumication system?
well, ere in amurca we calls it teh no kid left bhind

:morons:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Meh, I like me ware! 'Wear' es jus tu common!

Oh yeah (besides being spelling cliche) weight reduction is also FREE!
 

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BerylLasko said:
Oh yeah weight reduction is also FREE!
Let's see.. if you actually got a job.. and worked for the few dozens of hours you spend lightening up this car.. even at minimum wage you'd still probably make three times what you'll 'theoretically' save on fuel economy.

So this tells me you're ripping apart your car just because you think it's 'cool', and you're trying to justify it with claims of more power and better fuel economy.

Just say you think it's cool and be done with it... at least in that case when we make fun of you, it's all based on preference and not on fact ;)
 

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just get some hood pins remove the hinges cut the hood support out or whatever u wanna call it and the latch and pull that cable out and the puller from under the dash and theres a couple puonds there but unfortunatly my pins costed me 8 bucks so that could be a pricy mod lol and strip the paint and get plexiglass for windows also another couple pounds. pounds and pennies they both add up after a while
 

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i would put the back seat back in and just run it like that. that way makes it a whole lot easyer to put in a rear strut bar.
 

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juggalo said:
i would put the back seat back in and just run it like that. that way makes it a whole lot easyer to put in a rear strut bar.
Don't see how a rear seat would help install a rear strut bar? It has nothing to do with the seats.
 

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That thing has to be scary as hell to hustle around a tight corner.....
 

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TurboSupra12 said:
juggalo said:
i would put the back seat back in and just run it like that. that way makes it a whole lot easyer to put in a rear strut bar.
Don't see how a rear seat would help install a rear strut bar? It has nothing to do with the seats.
i didn't mean it like that. i was sayin it would be easyer to have the interior out of the trunk for the strut bar. and the backseat was just my opinion.
 
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