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I plan on replacing my struts and springs in the next month or so. I'm going to attempt to do this myself. Is there anything in particular that should be replaced when installing the new stuff. I dont want to put in the struts then find out there is something I should have replaced at the same time. Any heads up would be greatly appereciated.
 

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Your new struts should come with the top shaft nuts so I wouldn't worry about that.

The dustboot and bumpstop are one unit will most likely need to be replaced. I only replaced the front's on mine.

The thrust bearings will probably be fine. I reused my old ones.

Also you may need a set of new springs in the rear. Inspect them carefully. Mine was already snapped in two long before I replaced my struts. I have read on here that it is a common problem.
 

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There's already very good advice here.

Make sure to replace the boots. They're pricey, but they're what cause the struts to go in the first place. If your struts have not been replaced before, you'll find your boots are totally shot. Totally.

Careful with the spring compressors. You could be killed.
 

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you'd know if the thrust bearings are gone cause when you drive the car would be pulling all over the road and not steering nicely- its not unbearable but you'd notice it feels like it needs an alignment but it goes to either side and is unpredictable (can be fine for a while and then take off in one direction). usually its from jumping the car- i have to replace mine every 5,000 or so on the rally cars.
 

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highanddry said:
I find that odd. I've replaced all four and I needed the compressor each time. I can't imagine how one can get the rear stock struts off without compressing the springs.
I've never done it, just quoting the service manual. It says that you can just jack up the back of the car and remove them.
 

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zzyzzx said:
According to the service manual, you only need the spring compressor for the front ones (1995LX).

You'll need to get it aligned when your done.
How does the service manual say to get the rear ones off then :?

I've done mine before, you need the compressor for all 4 spings.

Also, NEVER point a compressed spring at anyone as well, just in case. It may not look like it, but those things will take off like mad if the compressor slips or lets go. Point it at a wall just to be safe.

Matt 8)
 

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The only time I didn't need the spring compressors was for putting the H&R fronts onto the struts. I could compress the helper parts (the tight coils at top & bottom) of those springs by hand. You definitely need them for both front and back stock springs.


Great thing about the Escort: they're light, so the springs are light. I felt relatively safe using the compressor on the Escort springs. The front springs on a Subaru Legacy are scary scary scary (and I'm sure it's the same way for any other midsize car) when using the off-the-shelf compressors. Very few coils, and very stiff. I feel queezy just thinking about it.
 

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I just replaced my struts and added the GC coilovers, but ot remove the stock springs I needed a compressor on all 4 corners.

Also, since I've installed my coilovers I have noticed that the car seems to need an alignment, but at times it chagnges from left to right, now from ewhat I'm familiar with (and it is stated here in an earlier post) that would indicate teh thrust bearings needing to be replaced... now, I haven't gotten an alignment yet since I have my swaybars waiting ot be installed (I'm still waiting on endlinks) and I don't want to have to pay for two alignments if I don't have to. could it just be that I messed up the alignment or is it likely to be the Thrust bearings?
 

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Misfit_Zero said:
I just replaced my struts and added the GC coilovers, but ot remove the stock springs I needed a compressor on all 4 corners.

Also, since I've installed my coilovers I have noticed that the car seems to need an alignment, but at times it chagnges from left to right, now from ewhat I'm familiar with (and it is stated here in an earlier post) that would indicate teh thrust bearings needing to be replaced... now, I haven't gotten an alignment yet since I have my swaybars waiting ot be installed (I'm still waiting on endlinks) and I don't want to have to pay for two alignments if I don't have to. could it just be that I messed up the alignment or is it likely to be the Thrust bearings?
If it seems to stick to the side which you last turned, it's probably the thrust bearings. Usually the alignment won't be off very much at all after installing new springs, even with extreme lowering (3-4").
 

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Messed up front camber and too much toe out can also cause the steering to not self-center once you turn past a certain point.

In other words: You'll make a sharp turn in a parking lot, and the steering will be reluctant to turn back.. may actually turn to lock by itself. But when driving down the road the steering stays mostly centered, occassionally pulling a little depending on which way the road is pitched.

If you're going to replace the thrust bearings.. there are plastic and metal ones. I would think the metal ones are a little stronger.

Did you rotate the front strut mounts so that the nubs were pointing inward or backward when you reinstalled them?
 

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I never used a spring compressor when taking the old springs off the struts. Its not like they shoot off like a rocket or anything. I know other cars I HAD to use one or the springs would shoot off the strut. But not on the escorts.
 

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Okay, so I was driving along the other day, and when I made a turn (which is what throws the alignment all goofy) I heard a distinct sound from the wheel well. it seemed to happen right before the alignment went crazy the last time. so I think it's safe to say that I need to replace the thrust bearing. Thanks for all the help guys.
 

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I thought the metal ones would be a whole lot better, but, for me, they aren't really that much better, they only lasted a few months more than the plastic ones i had. Now, i race the car every or every other weekend, so i put extra stress on them.
 

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Misfit:

I associate a clunking in the wheel well when turning with a shot outer CV joint. You are likely to hear this most when doing a 90 degree turn from low speed or stop. If you hear the noise when turning right going forward, it's your driver's side CV joint. Conversely, when turning left going forward, it's your passenger side CV joint.

However, the CV joint won't be the cause of your steering problems. If they're really, really worn, your tie rod ends could cause both these symptoms.

I'd jack the thing up and check both. Check the tie rod ends by having someone turn the wheel back and forth quickly while you're under there checking both sides. The easiest say to find a CV failed joint is to check if grease is seeping out of the boot.
 

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ya

ya, i had the super dark green shit leaking on my rims, and at first i didnt no wat it was but then i realized, so i had it fixed, it was the tie rod, but it is still leaking, but alot lotl lot less then b4, so wat could i do now
 
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