if your e-brake gets stuck on | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)

if your e-brake gets stuck on

Discussion in '2nd Gen 1991-1996 1.8L DOHC' started by me19875, Feb 6, 2007.

  1. me19875

    me19875 New Member

    Messages:
    2,679
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Vancouver, Washington
    it's probably your cables. I just replaced my cables and everything works perfectly now! they were about $100 for the two at schucks. with no experience it took me like 2 hrs to do it (my car has zero rust). not very complicated at all, just have to work in some tight spaces.

    things to remember:

    -take off the heat shield first

    -install the end of the cable closest to the e-brake lever first.

    -loosen the nut in the inside of the car underneath the armrest so the 2nd cable you install will reach. the old cable was all stretched out so the nut gets tightened to compensate, the new cable wont be stretched out, so it wont reach unless you loosen the nut.

    and the rest is really quite simple.
  2. ThumpinGT

    ThumpinGT New Member

    Messages:
    2,924
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    San Marcos, TX
    Yep, I wrote a how to on this.
  3. therieldeal

    therieldeal FEOA Member

    Messages:
    8,622
    Likes Received:
    19
    Trophy Points:
    338
    Location:
    Northeast CT
    did you adjust the calipers properly before replacing the cables? i'm thinking thats your real problem... my 16 year old cables work perfectly when the calipers are adjusted right.

    -jon
  4. me19875

    me19875 New Member

    Messages:
    2,679
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Vancouver, Washington
    nope, when i took the cables off i could NOT move them at all, whereas the new ones moved very freely. i never touched the calipers. and it works perfectly now.
  5. jamesm

    jamesm Guest

    Messages:
    1,085
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    my driver side e-brake gets stuck on 100% of the time now. Its not the cables either. FYI thats a $170 CAD part (rear disc caliper) for new ones. Salt sucks!
  6. EGTERIC

    EGTERIC New Member

    Messages:
    2,417
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Glendale Hts. IL
    i have no ebrake at all both cables are disconnected from the back but the light in my dash stays on all the time....any idea?
  7. highanddry

    highanddry Guest

    Messages:
    8,446
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    0
    I think we've discussed the brake system warning light a few million times. Two things illuminate the light:

    1. Brake fluid reservoir level below the sensor
    2. E-brake handle not fully down and engaging the limit switch.

    If you removed the e-brake cables or spring, the handle may not be forced down against the limit switch properly.
  8. EGTERIC

    EGTERIC New Member

    Messages:
    2,417
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Glendale Hts. IL
    both cables broke they werent exactly removed by choice...and the brake fluid is fine....and the handle is as far down as i can push it and it stays on...
  9. highanddry

    highanddry Guest

    Messages:
    8,446
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Can you hear the switch click as you raise and lower the parking brake handle just off the base position?
  10. EGTERIC

    EGTERIC New Member

    Messages:
    2,417
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Glendale Hts. IL
    the handle is very loose untill it is raised about 2inches and starts to click as if it were hooked up but its not connected so it doesnt work. is this mayb the spring you were talking about????
  11. highanddry

    highanddry Guest

    Messages:
    8,446
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    0
    The handle ratchets up against a metal toothed gear. That's the loud clicking you hear as you raise the handle in "steps" (ie it's discretely adjustable, not infinitely adjustable). It's not that clicking that I want you to try to hear. It's the more faint clicking of the limit switch at the very bottom of travel of the handle.

    Take the centre cover off around the parking brake handle. You'll see a single wire (I think it's green) going into the switch. With the centre cover off, you can see how the switch is actuated and will then be able to discern the clicking better.

    If you have a voltmeter, you can easily check if the switch is not making it's de-energized position.
  12. jamesm

    jamesm Guest

    Messages:
    1,085
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Push the button in (leave it in) and lift it up and down while listening for clicking. THATS the switch hes talking about.
  13. TurboSupra12

    TurboSupra12 FEOA Member

    Messages:
    6,259
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    338
    Location:
    Newmarket
    The easy way to do it. That's what I was gonna say to do.
  14. Overcrest

    Overcrest Guest

    Messages:
    73
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    A lil dangerous thing to do but I've done it a few times in the past. Unhook the cables, Take a battery and hook the positive to one end and the negative to the other end and let it heat up till the cable feels considerably warm and they will come back to life for a bit. Dangerous if you screw it up but it's a temp fix.
  15. highanddry

    highanddry Guest

    Messages:
    8,446
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    0
    :lol:

    Ghetto, man, really ghetto.

    I'm here to suggest that people don't do this.
  16. EGTERIC

    EGTERIC New Member

    Messages:
    2,417
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Glendale Hts. IL
    so with the button in should i hear a click or no?
  17. highanddry

    highanddry Guest

    Messages:
    8,446
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    0
    The limit switch only clicks when the handle comes full down or is first lifted off the fully down position.

    Holding the button in just allows you to move the handle up and down freely without engaging the toothed gear, so hearing the click of the limit switch should be easier.

    I still recommend you take the centre cover off, so you can see what is actually happening. When you see how things work, then you'll know if you have a problem or not.

    Take the centre cover off, turn the key to ON and manipulate the switch manually, if you don't have a voltmeter. That will confirm if the switch is defective.
  18. rimmer

    rimmer Guest

    Messages:
    323
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    That is a little 2 much for 2 calipers.. unless you are getting them from the dealer. I did 3 out of 4. 2 back and 1 front for 250 with new wagner premium pads. after market calipers. though .. rebuilt actually they called them.

Share This Page