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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys, I think you can help. I need to make a switch to go on a podium along with my deck and line driver that I use for SPL competitions. I need the switch when engaged to make my car rev to 2000 rpm. Not any more. And somehow make it adjustable. The adjustment is not as important but would come in handy. I was thinking I could come off the TPS or something with a resistor or L-pad. Any suggestions?

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What year/model escort do you have?

What you'll probably need a switch mounted to the engine temp sensor that triggers the fast idle. Your other option is to fit an extra air bypass valve (or IAC) in place and then throw power to it.. it should open, allowing the right amount of air around the throttle plate.
 

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Beaverboy said:
What you'll probably need a switch mounted to the engine temp sensor that triggers the fast idle.

Your other option is to fit an extra air bypass valve (or IAC) in place and then throw power to it.. it should open, allowing the right amount of air around the throttle plate.
Noooo! If you splice a switch with a resistor in the ect circuit, the engine would think its running cold (to rev up), and there would be no chance of the cooling fan ever coming on to cool the engine. That's a problem because you engine will most likely be at operating temp, and NEED that fan to come on after about 5 min or so but it won't because it's controlled by the ecu that thinks it's cold out.

For another air bypass, I think it would run lean as opposed to revving up as it's not getting the signal from the tps, and not running high idle because the ect is telling the ecu the engine is warm, thus any bypass should be closed or it'll run lean.

I think your best bet would be to rig up a solenoid to the trottle. Again you have the convienience of flicking a switch.

My two cents :roll:

Matt 8)
 

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Hrm.. I thought the computer used input from the coolant for the fan and a block temp sensor for the idle. Even if it kept the fan from coming on, it wouldn't be hard to wire the fan to come on whenever you threw the switch.

The car should be adjusting the mixture according to the MAF and the O2 sensor.. not just the TPS. That's all the IAC does is open a passage for air to bypass the TPS resulting in the high idle. But even so.. running lean at 2000rpm wouldn't really hurt anything, now would it?

:? I just don't know.
 

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What if you rigged up a strong RC servo to actually open the TB? That would be cool and wireless too . :wink: Then if you got bored you could even drive your car by remote lol.
 

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Beaverboy said:
Hrm.. I thought the computer used input from the coolant for the fan and a block temp sensor for the idle. Even if it kept the fan from coming on, it wouldn't be hard to wire the fan to come on whenever you threw the switch.

The car should be adjusting the mixture according to the MAF and the O2 sensor.. not just the TPS. That's all the IAC does is open a passage for air to bypass the TPS resulting in the high idle. But even so.. running lean at 2000rpm wouldn't really hurt anything, now would it?

:? I just don't know.
To my knowledge, the only sensor used by the ecu to turn on the fan is the ect. I personally never heard of a block temp sensor on an escort before (1.9, can't say for a 1.8 ). It would be rather easy to wire a switch into the fan circuit, but why if you don't have to. It would be just as much work to rig up a solenoid on the trottle and have everything run honky dory with no trouble.

The engine will run O.K. without the tps connected (personally done it before), but it is rather unresponsive. Especially when load is applied, which is when it starts to run lean. I know that for an SPL comp it wouldn't be running lean for too long, but because of the load from the alternator, it would run lean. Why take that risk. Lean running engines tend to burn valves in a hurry, and can cause severe engine damage. Given the 1.9's record of dropping valve seats, it wouldn't help at all.

I like mikes idea. Don't know if an RC servo would be strong enough, but instead of powering a small RC servo, you could get the reciever to activate a relay to power a larger solenoid if required. Just make sure to put an off switch on the RC connection for daily driving, or some little kid playing with his car might take control of yours :D

Matt 8)
 

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I thought someone here on the site had mentioned that there are 3 different temp sensors on the LXs. *shrug* I'm working off assumptions here, cut me some slack :D

I like the R/C idea as well. I wonder how hard it would be to simply hardwire (through a switch of course) the cruise control servo to open the TB only so much. I would imagine that there is a control wire that carries a range of voltage that controls the servo. It might only take a pot or resistor some wire and a switch to set it up.
 

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Yes, on some model lx's there are three temp sensors (fan, ecu, guage). I think it was either 93 or 94 that they changed to two sensors (guage, fan&ecu), thus what I said above, the ecu would always think the engine is cold and the fan would never come on.

The cruise servo is a great idea as well. The only way it won't work is if your car is like mine and has no cruise. But I like that idea though :wink:
You could either splice into the control circuit, or tee into opposite sides of the vacuum line and insert your own additional valve.

I think we need some more input from Xiph0id

NOTE: The Slack Requested has been approved :D

Matt 8)
 

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So some have 3 and some have 1... why didn't you say so?!? :p

Mattman said:
The only way it won't work is if your car is like mine and has no cruise.
Well.. it shouldn't be too hard to grab the parts off of a junkyard model and bolt them in. He shouldn't need the electronics.. just the servo, some vacuum lines (a few fittings) and the control cable. The cable goes through the firewall to a spot on the gas pedal lever above the throttle cable, so it's not like he'd need a new throttle body like on some cruise control systems. He might not even need the check valve for the vacuum line since he wouldn't need to use it for anything but 2000rpm vacuum.

PS: thanks for the slack. I hope I haven't turned this thread into too much of a "maybe, if-than, I dunno" mess. I just jumped at the opportunity to brainstorm on a new idea (new to me at least).
 

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You'ld still need the control valve for the cruise servo, but if you could rig up an rc unit to the electronic control valve, it would be like everybodies idea all rolled into one :D

Some escorts only have 1 temp sender 8O Why would they do that? It's 33% less effiicent with 3 :p

Better be careful. If we get too carried away we might get stuck installing it as well :eek:

Matt 8)
 

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now i do not know where your from X...BUT if your in the chicagoland area, you might have heard of deep vibrations. And if you ask ANY one of them they will tell you that your idea is nice, but why do that? when you can get more power. by simply running an isolator, and another battery or two. The group Deep Vibrations is Elite, at least 3 of them everytime. They take quite a few home, and most if not all are pushing 160+ db. And all are running more batteries, for instance my brother has 2 batteries in his trunk. along with an amp that draws 400 amps from his charging system. So my two cents would be run more batteries. That simple. If you have anyquestions just ask me, and ill do what i can to help.

EDIT: if your competing in SPL...you know USAC and all that, YOUR NOT ALLOWED TO REV PAST 1500. just so you know... [link]http://www.soundoff.org/[/link]
 

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Well I know my temp sensors are bad. I didnt have the money at the time to replace them, so I came up with an interesting way of making my cooling fan come on, Toggle switch! yeah. Toggle.. It was simple. but the harness and then find out which wire was negative and which was positive. Then all I did was run the hot wire to the +on the battery and presto, Instant cooling. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Christ, This many responces after only 2 days :D

It's a 95 with a 1.9L :p

I gotta go read the rest of the responces now... :lol:

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes there will be a big load on the motor. Currently it's only a 180amp alt charging at 17.4volts but I will soon be upgrading that to dual 300 amp alternators also at 17.4 volts. And don't get your panties in a knot I am not powering the cpu and car off of 17.4 volts. :lol:

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
1 more thing I should add about this. From the time I turn on the idle at 2000rpm until I am done with it is about 2-3 minutes. It might in fact be good to use the temp sensor so that the fan does NOT come on. For me every bit of power is important. When you run over 10000 watts on low voltage there are big voltage drops from the smallest things. Low voltage being a relative term and me saying low voltage I mean 17.4 volts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
sethxtreme said:
now i do not know where your from X...BUT if your in the chicagoland area, you might have heard of deep vibrations. And if you ask ANY one of them they will tell you that your idea is nice, but why do that? when you can get more power. by simply running an isolator, and another battery or two. The group Deep Vibrations is Elite, at least 3 of them everytime. They take quite a few home, and most if not all are pushing 160+ db. And all are running more batteries, for instance my brother has 2 batteries in his trunk. along with an amp that draws 400 amps from his charging system. So my two cents would be run more batteries. That simple. If you have anyquestions just ask me, and ill do what i can to help.

EDIT: if your competing in SPL...you know USAC and all that, YOUR NOT ALLOWED TO REV PAST 1500. just so you know... [link]http://www.soundoff.org/[/link]
I compete in DB drag not USAC, Don't worry I know all the rules. Another battery or two LOL. I've got 8 battery man. I'm drawing over 800 amps. Don't worry about the SPL part of it.

Thanks for the help though :D

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Xiph0id said:
Christ, This many responces after only 2 days :D

It's a 95 with a 1.9L :p

EDIT: I do not have cruise control on mine

I gotta go read the rest of the responces now... :lol:

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Xiph0id said:
1 more thing I should add about this. From the time I turn on the idle at 2000rpm until I am done with it is about 2-3 minutes. It might in fact be good to use the temp sensor so that the fan does NOT come on. For me every bit of power is important. When you run over 10000 watts on low voltage there are big voltage drops from the smallest things. Low voltage being a relative term and me saying low voltage I mean 17.4 volts.
True that. The cooling fan is a monster of a power eater on our cars. The friggin fan motor has got more power than the engine 8O You sound like you know what your doing in the electronics department. Personally I think with two alternators creating that much power you would need the fan to come on. It's a a fair bit of work (which creates heat) to make that much power. What you could also do is bypass the ect sensor, then rig up a switch with some sort of current regulator to have the fan running constantly, but not at full tilt alll the time. This way you would draw less power, keep your engine cool, get your high idle (resistor in the ect circuit to think its cold), and avoid massive voltage spikes as the fan won't unexpectedly kick in and cause you to loose your competition because you have no power left. :wink:

Matt 8)
 

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see, im only going with what ive been told, my team is up there, and u might have even seen the top guy, Bobby, its a 1st gen Neon...lol. Anyways i know this kid Kash, he has i think something like 12 batteries, or the equivlent...hes pushin a solo X which btw is for sale...800 with the box

www.cardomain.com/id/babytupac

anyways ive only started this, with little comps here and there, and i got a cheap system, meh o well. i hit 157.6 a week ago on a dying battery so, im hopin for a 158+ with mine...it should rock, but im selling it tooo...:(

ramblign on and on, this was useless
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Whats the difference between a servo and actuator and solenoid?

I think I'm just going to rig something up to the trottle cable. It'll be easier.

How does the vacum lines all work? When you pull one and let air past the TB the motor starts to chuckle and idle decreases. I'm guessing it just runs lean then as the TPS does not see the trottle as incresed.

If I use a solenoid on the cable and set it too 2000rpm, then apply a load on the motor will it rev back up to 2000rpm or just decrease as load is applied?

Thanks alot guys.
 
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