there seems to be an idle problem with my car ( 93 egt ). When ever theres no gas applied it dies or sometimes just almost dies until i hit the gas to wake it up. I got my oil changed today and still when i was driving in neutral it shut off.. it starts right back up fine and drives good but it just seems to not want to idle ... i think my intake tube could be the problem in this but if you all could gimme suggestions or ideas?? later on
idle problem ?
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Hey man! I had the same problem with my 93 LX. I´d stop at a light and i had to keep it around 1000 rpms to keep it running and it started out of no where. It was a vacume leak in the pvc hose at the elbow. The ford place said that was a common thing with the escort. I replaced the hose and it ran better then it had in a year or so. I hope this helps you out some and good luck.
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Unplug your Air Flow meter, if the car idles fine then there is a leak in the intake tube. if it still dies check the Idle Air Control valve on the throttle body. If is is gunked up that will cause you idle to suck as well when you don´t have the throttle body open. If it is the IAC valve then spray some throttle body cleaner in it to try to get the gunk out. Also check all of your hoses for vacuum leaks. Especially at the brake booster. When I bought my car the grommet that held the tube into the brake booster was cracked and you could hear is sucking the air in, and the backing was real hard.
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yeah, that was the same problem i had during this summer. i just got a new intake plug, fixed it right up. check your air filter too.
I think that unpluging the air flow meter and see if it will still run will only work with the LXes? Because i know if you unplug the VAF on a GT it will shut off the car no matter what, since the fuel pump relay is inside the VAF. David3d has a GT so i dunno if that would work for him?!??! Just wondering.
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Speaking of idle problems, my 91 LX idles rough. Actually it idles fine in P (it´s automatic) but when stopped at a light in D it idles rough so that the car shakes a little, especially the steering wheel. Any idea what the problem might be?
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Anybody?
lol, yeh i had the same problem...only mine was from idiocy....i didnt know that overly large airbox was half the airflow sensor so i just went ahead and pulled the whole thing out and just hooked an intake straight to the tb with all the little hoses goin to the engine...put everthing back together and it started fine again...we should find/come up with something smaller than that stinkin stock airflow sensor...its so huge...we could free up a lot of space if we could find a way to shrink it... I took mine apart and found that its just a metal slide moving back and forth according to the air gettin pushed in. I wonder if we coud modify like a throttle body and attach it to the sensor itself and incorporate that into an intake to make it smaller...anyone up for helpin me design one?
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I am also havine an idle problem with my 92 egt. When you first start it up in the morning or after it has been sitting there for a while it will stay at like 2500 RPM´s then after a while it will go to like 1500 RPM´s and it will stay there for a long time before it finally idles and it idles at 1000 RPM´s. I checked the hose that comes off of the VAF and no cracks i could see, i checked my PVC valve thinking that might have something to do with it but no luck. Anyone ever have this problem and can anyone help? Thanks :-]
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I have 2 egt´s a 91 and 92 and the 91 just revs to like 1500RPM´s for a little while and then drops down to like 700 RPM´s but my 92 takes a long time to idle i mean we are talking like 10 min give or take a few.
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My 92, in the morning will idle at about 1700 rpms until the temp moves to the bar below the N...in the half hour it takes me to take a shower, get dressed and leave for work it settles to a 700 rpm idle. It might take less time than that but i´m never there to sit there and watch it.
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But mine never idles below 1000, isnt that abnormal for my car. I mean everyone i have heard says that theirs idle at like 600-800. Even my other egt idles at 700.
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Sounds like your throttle body is sticking open too far. thats gotta be the only way it´s still idling that high.
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How would i adjust that so i would idle lower? This wont mess up my car adjusting this right?
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Honestly man, I remember reading in my Haynes manual that you can´t adjust idle because it´s an ECU operation that deals directly with the throttle body and fuel delivery. Unless you get a brand new ECU that´s multi-function programmable, I don´t think you can adjust that. :-[
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If i cant adjust it then how did it get that way in the first place? Stupid car! :-Y Well i guess if anyone knows of anything i can do or something else it might be let me know please and thanks for the help so far.
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Well you could always tear apart your throttle body and make sure it´s in top working condition. Things tend to start to fail after 11 years of service.
here I come to save the day!
Hint: it´s not the throttle body.
It´s actually a thing called the Bypass air valve. It´s a valve that redirects air into the intake manifold and does so by using a thing called a "thermo-valve" which is an apparatus threaded into the coolant jacked in the cylinder head that will open and close due to temperature variations. When you car is cold, it will contract and hold the valve all the way open, giving you that high 2500RPM period. Then as the engine warms up, the valve warms up and starts closing, giving the lower RPMS. What happened is that the thermo valve is worn out or gunked up and is sticking during warmup, which is why it takes so long to get to that idle speed.
the reason why it´s called an air bypass valve is because it BYPASSES the TB altogether, why is why even though the TB butterfly valve is closed, the engine rpms can still vary through one of 3 things:
1. leaks
2. ISC (idle speed control) solenoid
3. air bypass valve
Solution:
just replace this valve and you should be set. If that´s not the problem (and it most likely is), then the problem could be in your ISC. Leaks aren´t the problem in this case. Not by the symptoms you described.
David3d:
I agree with pimp_asscort_89gt, even though he is a piece of white trash
The problem seems to be in the ISC (idle speed control)/IAC (idle air control) solenoid. ISC and IAC are still the same valve, only that the IAC is the common term for the 1.9L engine valve, and the ISC is the common term for the 1.8L BP engine, even though they´re really the same purpose.
You can take this out and then measure the resistance across the terminals. This will let you know if the solenoid is fried and needs to be replaced. This solenoid is by the way controlled by the PCM and is designed to shift idle speeds when loads are put on the engine, such as your 2000 wat stereo or air conditioning.
hope that helps.
Hint: it´s not the throttle body.
It´s actually a thing called the Bypass air valve. It´s a valve that redirects air into the intake manifold and does so by using a thing called a "thermo-valve" which is an apparatus threaded into the coolant jacked in the cylinder head that will open and close due to temperature variations. When you car is cold, it will contract and hold the valve all the way open, giving you that high 2500RPM period. Then as the engine warms up, the valve warms up and starts closing, giving the lower RPMS. What happened is that the thermo valve is worn out or gunked up and is sticking during warmup, which is why it takes so long to get to that idle speed.
the reason why it´s called an air bypass valve is because it BYPASSES the TB altogether, why is why even though the TB butterfly valve is closed, the engine rpms can still vary through one of 3 things:
1. leaks
2. ISC (idle speed control) solenoid
3. air bypass valve
Solution:
just replace this valve and you should be set. If that´s not the problem (and it most likely is), then the problem could be in your ISC. Leaks aren´t the problem in this case. Not by the symptoms you described.
David3d:
I agree with pimp_asscort_89gt, even though he is a piece of white trash
The problem seems to be in the ISC (idle speed control)/IAC (idle air control) solenoid. ISC and IAC are still the same valve, only that the IAC is the common term for the 1.9L engine valve, and the ISC is the common term for the 1.8L BP engine, even though they´re really the same purpose.
You can take this out and then measure the resistance across the terminals. This will let you know if the solenoid is fried and needs to be replaced. This solenoid is by the way controlled by the PCM and is designed to shift idle speeds when loads are put on the engine, such as your 2000 wat stereo or air conditioning.
hope that helps.
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