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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've purchased all the major components I believe for my 97 2.0SPI turbo project.

===Intake/Exhaust====
FMIC (probe) + piping
VJ-20 turbo (I think but ERDT is down)
Downpipe
Custom manifold
Oil connections
Intake + filter
===Fuel Delivery=====
Procharger A-FMU from a mustang
Customized fuel rail with 24# mustang cobra injectors and A-FPR
Fuel guage
===Guages======
A/F LED indicator
Boost Guage

I should get most of the parts by next Friday so here we go. I'm been doing as much research as I can and from the sound of it I think I have everything I need (other than some serious time)

A few questions.....

1) When mucking with the baseline pressure to accomidate the 24# injectors and tuning the FMU to pressurize the system to 60psi? under boost will I be causing a CEL light? My concern in once I get this thing tuned etc will I fail OBDII emissions testing from Oregons DEQ?

2) Speaking with a fuel injection specialist that builds race engines in his spare time, he stated very strongly that the escort is notorious for head problems and that the engine would not last under any boost. He mentioned that the valves are too small and that under boost they might overheat, potentially dropping a seat (as described in JEFF's webpage) and then I'd be out an engine. He went on to state that with a low mile 2.0 you might be able to get away with it for a little while but since mine has 120 on the clock it's almost guaranteed my heads will fail.

I have seem several of you with claims of 6-7psi boost that have run turbos for over a year. I really want to do this project but definately can't afford to be replacing the internals with forged parts and sodium filled valves. I notice many people selling their tubro parts due to blown engines.

Any thoughts would be appreciated....
 

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1. How much boost will you be running? Yes you're going to throw a CEL no matter how hard you try to stop it. Say bye bye to low emissions and hello to air pollution central.

2. The valves in the SPI are much larger than the 1.9L. You should be fine unless you crank boost way up and don't have enough fuel pressure to back it up.

3. People rush into things and don't do them properly. Most of the people I've seen selling their stuff ran with no intercooler and no fuel management on 8psi or greater. This is why they have blown engines/turbos/head gaskets. One guy even shaved his head to the point where he couldn't get a head gasket to sit on the engine anymore. The people you're buying stuff from aren't rocket scientists. More like overzealous kids who think they can turbo an escort overnight.

Do it right and take your time. I suggest starting at low boost to get used to tuning it. I'd rather run rich and blow flames than lean out and explode.
 

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tokstad said:
I've purchased all the major components I believe for my 97 2.0SPI turbo project.

===Intake/Exhaust====
FMIC (probe) + piping
VJ-20 turbo (I think but ERDT is down)
Downpipe
Custom manifold
Oil connections
Intake + filter
===Fuel Delivery=====
Procharger A-FMU from a mustang
Customized fuel rail with 24# mustang cobra injectors and A-FPR
Fuel guage
===Guages======
A/F LED indicator
Boost Guage

I should get most of the parts by next Friday so here we go. I'm been doing as much research as I can and from the sound of it I think I have everything I need (other than some serious time)

A few questions.....

1) When mucking with the baseline pressure to accomidate the 24# injectors and tuning the FMU to pressurize the system to 60psi? under boost will I be causing a CEL light? My concern in once I get this thing tuned etc will I fail OBDII emissions testing from Oregons DEQ?

2) Speaking with a fuel injection specialist that builds race engines in his spare time, he stated very strongly that the escort is notorious for head problems and that the engine would not last under any boost. He mentioned that the valves are too small and that under boost they might overheat, potentially dropping a seat (as described in JEFF's webpage) and then I'd be out an engine. He went on to state that with a low mile 2.0 you might be able to get away with it for a little while but since mine has 120 on the clock it's almost guaranteed my heads will fail.

I have seem several of you with claims of 6-7psi boost that have run turbos for over a year. I really want to do this project but definately can't afford to be replacing the internals with forged parts and sodium filled valves. I notice many people selling their tubro parts due to blown engines.

Any thoughts would be appreciated....
You may or may not get a CEL.
You probly wont pass emissions, but there is a change if you can get some dyno time, tune in the FMU with the Wide Band O2 sesnor, in fact I suggest to do that ASAP. If you can get a good AFR and get the EGR and Evap system in working order, and not vent any kind of air (inspectors dont like to see that.) It might pass.

2) He's kinda of right...kinda, Escorts can and have dropped valve seat's. But that does not mean it's gonna happen to you with a turbo. The valve seats dropping are usally related to over heating, when the head start's to warp and twist from over heating, the valve seats can drop out like ice cubes in a twisted ice cube tray. I dont think it has much to do with milage, but it might.
I turbo'd my stock 1.9 in my pony with over 120 miles on it for about a year before I switched to the SPI motor. It ran fine than, and still run's fine today, that old 1.9 motor is now in a friends escort of mine.
A poor AFR or a lean condition can cause high heat in the head, valves and manifold, but as long as its tunned in good, the temp will be no different than it is stock.

The more I think about it, if you need to pass emissions the FMU/24# injectors might not be the way to go. They just dont give you much room to adjust and work with. Infact at WOT I'm so rich it makes tree's cry.
The better way to do it is with a custom chip or the SCT pro racer package or Diablo custom chip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies, I have another 2 years before I need to get licensed again so from the sound of it, it might be possible to tune it using a wideband 02 moniter to get it in the zone. Fortunately my father is engine development project lead for Hyster forklifts an the FI guy I was referring to works for him. I might be able to get some tuning time with him once I get it all together.

Maybe I'll just have to move somewhere that doesn't require emissions testing.... LOL

A more fundamental question is that the guy I'm buying this from said that anything less than 6psi would be restricting the engine. I was thinking about that and it doesn't make any sense. The engine uses atmospheric pressure to push gas into the heads. This is because of the vacuum create by the cylinders firing. Adding "boost" of any kind increases the "atmoshperic" pressure by "x" amount. Even 3psi boost is more intake pressure than running N/A.

From the sound of it cooling the engine and proper fuel management should keep me safe at 6-7psi. Can the stock fan be modified to a pusher (and somehow fit) or did you guys buy aftermarket ones.

I am buying a modified rail from MK96LX he mentioned something about removing the intake mani to get it on there. Jeff did you have to do that for yours?
 

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I ran 6psi at first and it added a quite a bit of power, so I dont know why that guy would say 6psi is restricted. I could see the first 1-2psi needed to over come the added back pressure from the turbo, but not much more than that.

I tried to reuse the stock fan, thats a no go. You'll need to buy a thin aftermarket reversible.

If you use standard length injectors (and you are), you'll need to slot out the fuel rail mounting holes to allow the taller injectors to fit. It's a tight squeeze. Check out my cardomain for some pic's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So as of last night I'm committed, I pulled the fuel rail, exhaust mani, cat, radiator, bumper, etc etc etc.

The turbo should be here thursday. Pulling stuff apart only made me wonder about other things....

The huge CAT that is bolted to the mani will definately not work anymore as the turbo will be taking it's place, did you guys run cats? Anyone have any pictures of their exhaust setup. Which cats did you use (I'm betting no one else put their cats back in.

Also I'm looking to tap into the o2 sensor for a A/F LED guage it's a 1 wire setup that is suppose to be at like 0-1 volts? Looking at my manual I figure I want to tap into the manifold 02 sensor, the diagram says there are two org/blk wires? Anyone done this before? Does it matter which org/black dire I hook to?

So I'm going to do the "T" oil pressure sender mod for lubing the turbo, has anyone given any though to oil pressure and flow of adding this additional load to the system? Anyone running larger oil pumps?

Had a buddy of mine come over and we figured we better take a progress shot...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Where'd everyone go?

I started posting here because this is the only forced induction (for the escort) forum I've seen since ERDT went down. Where is everyone from ERDT posting these days (at least the tubro guys)?
 

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tokstad said:
did you guys run cats? Anyone have any pictures of their exhaust setup. Which cats did you use (I'm betting no one else put their cats back in.
I did not use a cat. I do not have emmition testing here.
There is some pic's of my down pipe on my cardomain.
Click my sig pic, I redid a lot of my cardomain in the last few day's.
tokstad said:
Also I'm looking to tap into the o2 sensor for a A/F LED guage it's a 1 wire setup that is suppose to be at like 0-1 volts? Looking at my manual I figure I want to tap into the manifold 02 sensor, the diagram says there are two org/blk wires? Anyone done this before? Does it matter which org/black dire I hook to?
There are 4 wires. There is the +12 volt's for the O2 heater, then it's ground. Then there is the 1 volt signal out put, that's what you want. The last wire is the ground for the signal. I dont have the color code with me.
tokstad said:
So I'm going to do the "T" oil pressure sender mod for lubing the turbo, has anyone given any though to oil pressure and flow of adding this additional load to the system? Anyone running larger oil pumps?
The turbo does'nt take that much oil. Dont have to worry about any thing.
A oil cooler is a good idea, but not needed as long as you change the oil when needed and give the turbo a chance to cool often.
It help with install a lot to use a 2.3 T oil block, like pictured in my cardomain.
 

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smoke187 said:
yo jeff how much boost could i run with stock fuel system dont stock injectors run to about 200hp
I'd run 0psi with a stock fuel system. The stock injector's could support about 135hp with the help of a FMU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
FMU

A Fuel Management Unit is a mechanical device that increases the restriction of the return fuel line escentially increasing the available fuel pressure to the injectors. Some common FMU ratios are 12:1, 10:1 8:1 6:1, with stock injectors I've heard that some people are running 12:1's with stock injectors (this means that for every 1psi of boost you are adding 12psi of availabe fuel pressure to the rail) I would go with an adjustable one as this will let you tune the air/fuel mixture better.

I bought a procharger one from a guy off of a mustang forum www.corral.net

Actually last night I installed the new 24# injectors, the modified fuel rail, the adjustable FPR (I'm assuming that the vacuum hose that went to the stock FPR goes over the adjustment bolt with the hole in it), I also got the procharger FMU installed to.

I'm still trying to figure out where and how to put a cat on this system. does anyone have a picture of thier exhaust system. I have a picture of the progress, I'll post once I can get it loaded onto my cardomain site.

Also has anyone been able to keep thier AC unit it and which fans did you use. Measuring the front of the A/C radiator it seems like I'll need 2 10" fans.

The Turbo is coming today in the mail so we shall see what this "custom" manifold looks like.
 

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Re: FMU

tokstad said:
...Also has anyone been able to keep thier AC unit it and which fans did you use. Measuring the front of the A/C radiator it seems like I'll need 2 10" fans...
I got one of the fans(generic brand) off of E-Bay for REAL cheep and the other one(Flex-a-lite) I payed TOO much for at a local speed shop. Very pleased with the both of them and have never had a problem either of them.



 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I just got screwed over by ERDT member

I guess I should have demanded pictures.....

Ad stated custom:
-preofesionally welded tubo manifold
-IC/All IC lines
-rebuilt (by turbonetics) VJ turbo
-downpipe

What I got was:

-A smashed up IC with oil all over the inside of it
-A turbo that has a milky brown color pouring out of it (meaning the coolant/oil has mixed)
-Oil on the output side of the compressor housing (meaning the turbo seals are shot)
-No downpipe or piping of any sort for routing the exhaust post turbo (do you have this still?)
-A turbo that is welded to the exhaust manifold (for a year of car that didn't have an egr or o2 sensor mount point on the manifold)
-A "iceman" intake that is totally smashed the filter is damaged from the parts in the box smashing it just as the intercooler is.

Thanks a bunch to Aaron from Florida!!!

Anyone have a downpipe that will work for this turbo or any other parts they could spare.

I dropped 250 for about 50 bucks worth of crap...

Here's a few pictures:






Here's how it held up to my escort (radiator doesn't clear):



Here's my 24# cobra injectors:



Jeff do you have any parts you could spare? Right now I've got all the fuel management installed and ready but this turbo might need rebuilding. How spendy is that can I buy a kit and do it myself? I should really just cut this thing off of the mani and make my own adapter plate formy stock manifold.

Jeff do you have a spare downpipe or a flange for it or any other parts that you've upgraded from your original design? I think I might be able to salvage the IC.
 
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