[Spiffy]

TURBO!

I however, don't know what to do with it. It's a Warner-Ishi IHI turbo, "freshly" rebuilt, no shaft play and is in pretty solid shape I think.

Before I even consider putting it near the escort, I plan on pulling the motor, then going from there. I want to use this as a learning process, and a good point for my first 'fast car' build. I don't know much about actually working on cars, as I've never had to. Just short of a battery here, alternator there, or redoing the drum brakes; I've never dived into the internals of a motor. Here's a good chance I suppose.

I'm using this for some information as well; I've read, and re-read the Escort performance thread a hundred times and still haven't figured out where to start yet. I have been talking to a SVO mustang guy, and he's been aiming me in the right direction. Naturally I'll need new injectors, fuel pump, turbo manifold, and all the hard parts; and I've read the stock internals are allegedly good up to about 8psi, but is that accurate? Should I look at replacing things while I've got the motor torn apart? Since it does have a slight leak now, I was going to replace ALL of the gaskets while the motor is out of it, but should I look into a rebuild as well?

Nothing big will be happening with it soon, I was going to use it for a summer project, but I'd like to know where I should be starting. Any input?

 

[denisond3]

As far as rebuilding the motor....sure. If I were planning to turbo an engine, I would certainly open it up, get a valve job done on the head (and to get it milled flat), to replace the piston rings, all of the seals, to inspect the top of the block to make ensure it is free of corroded areas, and if you plan to keep the thing running for a few years, to replace core plugs.
Anytime I have an engine dismantled in front of me, its fairly inexpensive to replace the crank and rod bearings. (And either measure the crankshaft for being within specs, or have it done). I have never wanted to put a turbo on, so I dont know if its time to get pistons that lower the compression ratio. That would be a vital requirement with the mopar 2.2's and 2.5's that were made both normally aspirated and with factory turbochargers.

Considering you will be putting a lot more torque into the driveline - is this car a standard or does it have the automatic transmission? A new clutch for a standard would probably be good insurance. I dont know about the 1st gen. automatics: I rebuilt the F4EAT in my 2nd gen. Escort - and found it to be a little tedious, but no more tricky than an engine rebuild. Having a manual for it is essential though. I used the Ford OEM Service Manual for that job.

Since all Escorts are old enough: I advise people to inspect the brake lines to the rear of the car; every inch of them. Corrosion that involves any pitting of the brake line should be replaced. Its another labor intensive job, but at least the parts (standard lengths of brake line and couplings) are fairly inexpensive. With the 2nd gen Escorts you have to be really underneath looking straight up to see the brake lines where they run along beside the fuel tank.

I hope you dont try to hurry the work.

 

[Spiffy]

That was another thing, I figured at least to replace piston rings; but wasn't sure about bearings. Most likely wouldn't be a bad idea... Allegedly the compression is 9:2:1, which I've heard either way about going turbo. The SVO guy says that it's almost ideal, but then there's quite a few others that say no go.

The car is a standard, no 1st gen GTs came in autos, since I don't know when the clutch was replaced last, I figured I'd just go ahead and replace it with a beefier one while I'm at it.

I have no real reason to rush this project, with money being the only limiter. I'm using the escort for learning and fun. It won't be a daily driver, but it'll definitely need to last; I refuse to constantly rebuild it.

 

[Spiffy]

I expected Unexploded Cow, 1low and a couple others to step in.

 

[1lowscort]

I lost my legs in 'Nam! I don't step into anywhere! Ok, maybe a poor attempt at a joke.

Ok, so if you want my advice, here is what I recommend. This is how I just did my friends 88 GT as well. I set him up with all of the parts and helped him put it together.

We got him:
RS Turbo manifold ($200 but can be had much cheaper)
IHI turbo from a T-bird(T3 flange) ($50)
My old 2.5" exhaust with flowmaster (gave it to him)
We built a T for the oil pressure sender/feed line for the turbo. (around $5)
We got him an Ebay BOV with the pipe attached. ($17)
Merkur ECU ($15)
Merkur VAM ($15)
Merkur injectors ($30)
We rebuilt his engine, bored .020" over (not sure what he paid)
New LX pistons ($70)
New rings ($25)
Polished the crank ($20?)
New bearings ($40)
Other random crap that you forget about until you need it ($100ish)

He is running 6 psi right now until the engine is broke in. He will be intercooling it soon and bumping the boost to about 11 or 12. He is using this as a daily driver, so he has to have it reliable.

If you are only going to run 8psi, I wouldn't worry about having an intercooler just yet.

I wouldn't bother changing the fuel pump, I ran the stock fuel pump until about 3 weeks ago, and I am running 16-18 psi (depending on pump gas or race gas). I just swapped to the Walbro 255 LPH pump because my car was not running right. This did not fix the problem, I had a bad VAM.

As for where to start, well it looks like you already have a great start. What flange does that turbo have on it? If you don't already have them, I can get you injectors, VAM and ECU, just as long as you aren't in a huge hurry.

Here is a crappy cell phone pic of his current setup(he has more hose clamps now)

 

[Spiffy]

That was going to be my next step. I work at an O'Reillys, I have access to 'remanufactured' VAMs and ECUs, not sure how much I'd trust them though, was going to get input on them before actually putting an order in.

The SVO guy made it sound as if everything would have to be redone. This makes me feel a bit better; I wouldn't classify myself with your buddy, but this car will definitely need to be reliable. As far as intercooling goes, I have access to a cheap <$50 FMIC, I figured at that price it'd be worth it to pick it up at least.

I would absolutely LOVE it if you could get me the ECU, VAM, and injectors; like I said, I can get them; but they're classified as a universal type product. Although specific per vehicle, the product claims to have a broad range of applications. As far as the manifold goes, would it just be easier in the long run to purchase an RS mani? I was going to look into having someone modify my stock one (assuming it's in good shape). The flange on the turbo, I'm not sure. I know the previous owner used it on a honda, and had a direct pipe from the exhaust ports to the turbo. That's about all I can tell, this is pretty new to me. I'll get some better pictures up tomorrow, maybe even have some things explained too.

As far as compression goes, should I worry about lowering it more? I'm only so fluent with the 1st gens, will the LX pistons make a difference or are they pretty much a direct replacement? I don't mind spending a couple extra bucks where it's needed (back to this is a project and a learning experience, and really something I would like to "stand out") I appreciate your input, and I'll start gathering things now that I know what I'm looking for.

 

[1lowscort]

Your turbo LOOKS like a T-bird turbo in the pictures posted. Does the flange look like this?

I'll get on finding those parts for you. If it is a T-bird turbo, i would say just get the RS manifold. It is a direct bolt on, flows pretty well and fits very nicely.

I would suggest dropping the compression, because if you are like me at all, you will want to turn up the boost. The replacing the GT pistons with LX pistons you will drop the compression from 9.2:1 to about 8:1. It won't be a complete dog without boost, and the T-bird IHI turbo spools pretty quickly. It will also be a whole lot safer and less prone to breaking pistons. I have had them in my red EXP now for over a year without breaking one at up to 18 psi.

If you can get a cheap intercooler, I will definitely not be steering you away from running it. Charge piping gets a lot more complicated however.

 

[Spiffy]

Thanks for the parts, no rush; but I'm trying to get everything assembled before June. As far as pistons go, do you mean LX as in second gen or post 88? Here's some pictures of the turbo.









Where's a reputable place to pick up a manifold from? Or more specifically what should the constraints be? Or just aim for an '89 escort rs?

 

[1lowscort]

Yep, that is an IHI from a Tbird. It has a T3 flange. As far as the RS manifold, you will be looking for just any Escort RS Turbo manifold. I think Rudy(rudedog) may have one hanging around still, though I'm not sure if he has plans for it. You may send him an IM and talk to him about it.

For LX pistons, I mean pistons for any Escort LX from 87-90(I think 91-96 are the same also).

 

[Spiffy]

Should I look into new pistons? Or pull some from a junkyard?

Just lemme know on the parts.

 

[1lowscort]

I would get new ones.

 

[UnexplodedCow]

New ones for sure, and I'd have the block machined to match the new pistons, too.

 

[Spiffy]

Will do then.

 

[Sketch]

Ok I am not sure where the rest of this post is but I swear there was more. I want to know if the Merk cpu is a direct bolt in or is there a pin out sequence involved?

 

[Spiffy]

Ok I am not sure where the rest of this post is but I swear there was more. I want to know if the Merk cpu is a direct bolt in or is there a pin out sequence involved?

It's a straight bolt in. I'm not positive, but I think you have to rewire when you add in the injectors and VAM.

 

[UnexplodedCow]

If you're still looking for a manifold, there's an RS one for $100 in the FS section, being sold by Tracer-X.

http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=65527

 

[1lowscort]

no rewiring for injectors or VAM or ECU. They are all straight forward swaps.

 

[Spiffy]

no rewiring for injectors or VAM or ECU. They are all straight forward swaps.

I was under the impression that with all three you had to rewire? Sweet deal if not.

 

[ccomander]

why the LX pistons when rebuilding the engine ??

 

[1lowscort]

LX pistons will drop the compression to a more turbo friendly ratio.