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76 Posts
I finally got it from the group buy. Now I have a front strut bar, rear strut bar, and rear sway bar. Hope it helps.
I got my rear swaybar today...
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I got mine today, and just got it installed. Would have been done w/ the install in under 20 min had it not been for a frozen end link (stock part, not new part). After pounding and forcing and cursing and shoving and praying, I brought out man's ultimate weapon (or at least my ultimate weapon), the pulley puller. Frozen end link was no match.
I don't understand what part of the directions people claimed was backwards. Mine installed just fine as pictured.
She's still up on the ramps, because I'm gulping down dinner as I type this, so that I can get out there and test drive ASAP.
While we're talking mods :wink:
H&R Sport springs, S/R Tokico shocks, Ractive strut braces, Energy Suspension control arm bushings, shifter support bushing and engine mount inserts, B&M short shift lever, MSD coilpack
I don't understand what part of the directions people claimed was backwards. Mine installed just fine as pictured.
She's still up on the ramps, because I'm gulping down dinner as I type this, so that I can get out there and test drive ASAP.
While we're talking mods :wink:
H&R Sport springs, S/R Tokico shocks, Ractive strut braces, Energy Suspension control arm bushings, shifter support bushing and engine mount inserts, B&M short shift lever, MSD coilpack
Wow! That was fun. She turns in very well now.. I think I lifted an inside rear wheel just messing around in a parking lot a few minutes ago. I can see that I'm using more of the rear tires than I was before.. and I can certainly feel it. I was afraid that the rear end might be twitchy over bumps, or that it would slide out more easily.. I'm not finding that to be the case. In fact, it's riding nice and smoothly, cornering as predictably over bumps, if not more so, than before, and seems to be carrying much more speed through a turn, where before it would scrub it off as the front wheels fought for traction.
Thanks Matt! Thanks everybody else who bought a bar and made this possible. I'm going to be competative at the race on the 26th, even on street tires with a stock bent-pipe exhaust.
Thanks Matt! Thanks everybody else who bought a bar and made this possible. I'm going to be competative at the race on the 26th, even on street tires with a stock bent-pipe exhaust.
Wow, I should have gotten a rear swaybar a long time ago... but then again, if I had, I wouldn't have the 1" Quickor bar. Matt, are you going to continue to sell them? Did you order a wagon load of them?
Does anyone need the rear sway from a 2nd gen wagon (stiffer than any other 2nd gen model) Used, not perty, no end links.
Sorry to "hijack" your thread Lighthammer. I'm just a little excited. I just went bahnstorming on my way home from a bar w/ some friends (I quit drinking at the bar a good 2 hours ago, and only had 2 drinks before I quit). I wasn't even pushing it all the way and I was going faster, more confidently than before. All this time, I've had 205 width Z-rated rubber on the back, and all this time I haven't been using it. She just sticks.. she doesn't plow when I get back on the power, she just reminds me even more that I need more lateral support and a good race harness to keep me from looking like a Trunkmonkey.
*begins searching the web for a good 3 point harness to use for autoX*
Does anyone need the rear sway from a 2nd gen wagon (stiffer than any other 2nd gen model) Used, not perty, no end links.
Sorry to "hijack" your thread Lighthammer. I'm just a little excited. I just went bahnstorming on my way home from a bar w/ some friends (I quit drinking at the bar a good 2 hours ago, and only had 2 drinks before I quit). I wasn't even pushing it all the way and I was going faster, more confidently than before. All this time, I've had 205 width Z-rated rubber on the back, and all this time I haven't been using it. She just sticks.. she doesn't plow when I get back on the power, she just reminds me even more that I need more lateral support and a good race harness to keep me from looking like a Trunkmonkey.
*begins searching the web for a good 3 point harness to use for autoX*
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76 Posts
I am going to put mine on sometime on Saturday. What tools do I need? I am not a mechanic so what are my options? I'm a computer tech guy so I am not an idiot. =)
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838 Posts
I'm Surprised Matt hasn't seen this post yet. I am glad you guys finally got the bars, and I am glad you are happy with them. When we get more going in this business we might get more. I'm not too sure Matt is too happy with Quikor right now though after talking to him the other day. We will see how thing come along though. As far as your exhaust issue goes, I hope you will be buying one of our units whe we finally get it on the market. Mat and I spent a few hours in my garage the other day messing around with measurements and angles. We have half of the back half pieced together right now. We just need to test fit it, but that part seems to be the hardest part, the rest should be no problem.
To answer your question Lighthammer you should only need a couple of wrenches and a jack and jack stands to get your old bar off and put your new one on. I would also suggest getting some new sway bar bushings if they didn't already come with the bar. Unbolt the frame mounts first then take off the end links. Istallation is the opposite. New end link bolts wouldn't be a bad idea either if they weren't already supplied. Any Parts store shouls carry them
To answer your question Lighthammer you should only need a couple of wrenches and a jack and jack stands to get your old bar off and put your new one on. I would also suggest getting some new sway bar bushings if they didn't already come with the bar. Unbolt the frame mounts first then take off the end links. Istallation is the opposite. New end link bolts wouldn't be a bad idea either if they weren't already supplied. Any Parts store shouls carry them
yeah1
i will say with the one inch rear sway bar!! watch and make sure it dosent rub the rear suspension arm!! my buddy has one from the day of compass motorsports, we noticed it was rubbinh, we adjusted it to be away from the arm, and a week later the arm split in half , a clean break, startign or right on the pointe the sway bar was rubbing, it makes the handle so much better but just becareful!!
i will say with the one inch rear sway bar!! watch and make sure it dosent rub the rear suspension arm!! my buddy has one from the day of compass motorsports, we noticed it was rubbinh, we adjusted it to be away from the arm, and a week later the arm split in half , a clean break, startign or right on the pointe the sway bar was rubbing, it makes the handle so much better but just becareful!!
All the hardware is included.. new radius bushings and brackets and new endlinks with bolts. The end links are heavier duty than stock.
You'll need 12mm wrenches/sockets and some Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster to remove the end links. I had to use my breaker bar with a 14mm socket to remove the radius brackets (frame mounts). Just be careful not to break these bolts, as no new ones are supplied. You can snap one of the stock endlink bolts pretty easily (no breaker bar) and you'll be okay.
To heed the advice of someone who's been down this road (aliennation95gt), If I were you I'd try to find a spacer to put between the middle bushings on the new end links to lower the bar just enough for some extra clearance with the control arm. Mine was very close, and I was/am having my worries. So I'll probably grab 2 washers and cut off a small peice of piping (or just use several washers) to use as a spacer. I'd say 1cm of extra clearance is all you need, and all that the bolts will safely allow. The stock endlinks have plastic spacers on them, I don't think you can re-use them though.
You'll only need a 14mm socket and a 14mm wrench (or just two 14mm wrenches) to install the new bar, pretty smooth install.
Try not to take out any inside curbs when you test drive, she'll want to turn a lot more than she used to.
You'll need 12mm wrenches/sockets and some Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster to remove the end links. I had to use my breaker bar with a 14mm socket to remove the radius brackets (frame mounts). Just be careful not to break these bolts, as no new ones are supplied. You can snap one of the stock endlink bolts pretty easily (no breaker bar) and you'll be okay.
To heed the advice of someone who's been down this road (aliennation95gt), If I were you I'd try to find a spacer to put between the middle bushings on the new end links to lower the bar just enough for some extra clearance with the control arm. Mine was very close, and I was/am having my worries. So I'll probably grab 2 washers and cut off a small peice of piping (or just use several washers) to use as a spacer. I'd say 1cm of extra clearance is all you need, and all that the bolts will safely allow. The stock endlinks have plastic spacers on them, I don't think you can re-use them though.
You'll only need a 14mm socket and a 14mm wrench (or just two 14mm wrenches) to install the new bar, pretty smooth install.
Try not to take out any inside curbs when you test drive, she'll want to turn a lot more than she used to.
wow I'm late on this one. thanks for all the praise. No I didn't have enough extra to get any more bars. I wish I had! I will start trying to build some "stock" as time goes on.
Glad you all love the bar. That extra hardware was half the reason I didn't get any extra bars. The price I was going off when I setup the group buy didn't include the hardware. I assumed it did. So I wasn't about to tell everyone that got in on the group buy the owed $30 more! Which was a very good decision especially since they took so darn long. No worries though. Word is really starting to get out there. I think this is on the verge of taking off like crazy.
Glad you all love the bar. That extra hardware was half the reason I didn't get any extra bars. The price I was going off when I setup the group buy didn't include the hardware. I assumed it did. So I wasn't about to tell everyone that got in on the group buy the owed $30 more! Which was a very good decision especially since they took so darn long. No worries though. Word is really starting to get out there. I think this is on the verge of taking off like crazy.
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68 Posts
Well thanks Matt.
BTW Mine was the one that went on top. It wouldn't fit on the bottom. Believe me I tried to get it to fit, it just would not reach. The GT and LX arms aren't in different places are they?
Matthew
BTW Mine was the one that went on top. It wouldn't fit on the bottom. Believe me I tried to get it to fit, it just would not reach. The GT and LX arms aren't in different places are they?
Matthew
Well, I installed mine with the rear end up on ramps, so the suspension was loaded. Plus mine is lowered a little over an inch in the rear with the H&Rs. It fit together very easily. I can see how it would be difficult if you were to lift the car and let the suspension droop all the way.
:?
:?
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68 Posts
I am an idiot. I will see if that works. We have an auto craft shop where I live and I just raised up the car in a lift bay and let the suspension hang. I will see if I can change it tonight. Thanks for that info.
Matthew
Matthew
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760 Posts
Just noticed your payment plan on the site Matt. It's nice to see your willing to work with folks on getting their parts. A nice way for someone to get the part held for them while they finish paying on it. :hello1:
From Bare End Motorsports website:
A little hard up on the cash? We've all been there at one point or another in life. If there are some parts you need but can never seem to come up with enough cash at one time there is help. Bare End Motorsports can now offer a payment plan. It is simple. Figure out what parts you need. E-mail our sales people. We will work with you to set up a payment schedule that works for YOU. It can be weekly, bi-weekly or monthly. Once the final payment is made your order will be shipped. It's that easy. If you are interested just E-mail the sales department. We will work with you and there is no pressure and no fee's.
From Bare End Motorsports website:
A little hard up on the cash? We've all been there at one point or another in life. If there are some parts you need but can never seem to come up with enough cash at one time there is help. Bare End Motorsports can now offer a payment plan. It is simple. Figure out what parts you need. E-mail our sales people. We will work with you to set up a payment schedule that works for YOU. It can be weekly, bi-weekly or monthly. Once the final payment is made your order will be shipped. It's that easy. If you are interested just E-mail the sales department. We will work with you and there is no pressure and no fee's.
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838 Posts
Yea, I was going to mention the part about keeping the tires from hanging. Sorry bro. Hope that hasn't caused too much hassle for ya
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68 Posts
Its all good. Its my fault, and that was pretty boneheaded on my part. I am going to fix it when I get back from the field.
Matthew
Matthew
yes!
yes beaverboy, thats what we did to fix the problem, we hadnt been under the car for a while, we were doing full urathane bushings, and noticed where it was rubbing, so we spent a while playing with stuff in the garage to space it out right!! it was like week later he was driving and the rear end wipped out on him. the noticrd the rear arm broke clean. we have been looking at 3 gen rear ends, the look beafier than 2 gen rear parts, or his neighbotr will make us some custome machined onsed thsat will look trick next!!
yes beaverboy, thats what we did to fix the problem, we hadnt been under the car for a while, we were doing full urathane bushings, and noticed where it was rubbing, so we spent a while playing with stuff in the garage to space it out right!! it was like week later he was driving and the rear end wipped out on him. the noticrd the rear arm broke clean. we have been looking at 3 gen rear ends, the look beafier than 2 gen rear parts, or his neighbotr will make us some custome machined onsed thsat will look trick next!!
yeah sorry you had mentioned it to me... and never having installed it myself I didn't even think of it. I was even under there trying to figure out how you were having problems *L* it looked right to me... then again it was on the ground at the time!
yeah I hope the payment plan thing helps people out. Obviously the parts don't ship until its fully paid but if your like me I never seem to have the full amount at one time and it usually gets spent somewhere else if its not enough.
yeah I hope the payment plan thing helps people out. Obviously the parts don't ship until its fully paid but if your like me I never seem to have the full amount at one time and it usually gets spent somewhere else if its not enough.
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