I finally found my A/C leak!!! | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
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I finally found my A/C leak!!!

Discussion in '2nd Gen 1991-1996 1.9L SOHC' started by zzyzzx, Jun 10, 2013.

  1. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    After more than a year without it, I finally found that I have a bad high pressure port. I had made previous attempts to find the source of my r134a leak, but I must have either had the high pressure cap on, or a gauge set on, or something (I thought I had put some soapy water in there to see if it leaked and got nothing). It's still possible that I have another leak someplace else on the system, but it seems to me that with no pressure on it the high pressure port valve would not go bad on it's own (and it tested fine after replacement).

    I have not refilled the system yet with r134a since at the time I did not have my tools to vacuum out the system, so I won't know for sure for a few more days.

    My question is, what size wrench was I supposed to use to remove the old high pressure A/C valve? It just screws into the A/C line, but I swear no metric or English wrench or socket fit it. I ended up using an adjustable wrench.

    I'm wondering if this type of thing is what one is supposed to use if that didn't work:
    http://www.sptool.com/index.php?pag...ategory_id=20&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=11

    http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt..._98234_r134a_high_side_service_port_octa.html
  2. 2doorLX

    2doorLX FEOA Member

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    congrats on finding the leak!!
  3. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    After adding a refill on my system earlier this year, I noticed a bubble sssssllllllloooooowwwwwllllyyyyy building out of the low-pressure valve/port. Wonder if I can find a metal cap and use thread-seal tape to slow the leak. Only other problem I've had out of the A/C system until now is a failed $3 relay for the compressor clutch.

    As I understand it, if the system is opened up then you have to start replacing shtuff ??? Flip that...
  4. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    I'm pretty sure that nobody makes a metal cap that you can use to seal a system like that. Just get the same kit I used and replace both valves.



    Plenty of people don't replace bunches of other stuff and it works just fine.
  5. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Are you suggesting that I change out my low pressure port as well? A new one came with my kit and I didn't use it, and I still haven't recharged the system yet..
  6. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    Due to crap-parts, one thing I learned about this car over the years is that you don't replace anything unless it has actually failed. If I said "yeah replace it anyway" I'm afraid that the new part will quickly fail within the next year or few. Then you'll be like "damn wish I hadn't replaced that." On the other hand vacuuming, opening up and refilling the system twice can be hassle. Personally have too many times regretted unnecessarily replacing parts though. If it were mine, I'd leave it alone unless it's known to leak.
  7. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Yeah, ideally I would replace the low pressure valve, check the orifice , and remove the compressor and drain the oil out of it and replace with new (I.E.- an oil change for the compressor). But I'm also thinking that if I did all of that, I would also have to worry about leaks anyplace where I took it apart.
  8. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    Particularly when a long time went by since last activation, my compressor used to engage pretty harshly for the first use. It'd be fine afterward. Haven't noticed that happening for at least the last two years since adding PAG-100 oil charges. The 100 grade may be thicker/heavier than OEM, which may have been PAG-46 grade.

    Unrelated, but currently dealing with another part quality issue, for the second f*ing time replacing the same crap O'Reilly rear strut mount part. I'm done with them. Sticking to CarQuest and Napa from now on.
  9. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    I'm pretty sure that OEM is PAG-46, I do happen to have some in case I removed the compressor. The reason you are adding oil charges is???

    What happened with the rear strut mount? The Monroe ones I put in late last year looked pretty beefy.
  10. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    That oil charge question leads me to believe that you're about to tell me something ? :) The hard-engagement issue I mentioned prior, had sounded like serpentine belt was breaking something loose. I guess you're about to tell me the oil charges awhile back wouldn't have affected that ?

    Sorry about the sidetrack. Further comments on that here.
    https://www.feoa.net/threads/the-anti-hijack-thread.73668/#post-728747
  11. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    You still never said the brand or model number of the strut mount.
  12. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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  13. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Looks like I fixed a leak not all A/C leaks. It's already not working again.

    So annoying.
  14. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    OK, I finally found the real leak. it's the seam on the A/C compressor! It's mostly leaking straight back onto the oil pan there.
  15. Benlightnd

    Benlightnd FEOA Donator

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    OUCH, sorry to hear it's the compressor..
  16. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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  17. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Yes, it's the original compressor! Saw the residue and when I put n my UV glasses and used my UV light, it was more obvious. Not sure I want it take it apart to replace the gasket. I may try a JY compressor. Not sure. I can drive my other car with working for now.
  18. bent_rod

    bent_rod FEOA Donator

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    If it is a pick-pull yard I would first take out the orifice tube that will give you a possible indication of the compressor condition.

    [​IMG]
  19. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    I will do that! I also want to know if anyone here has used one off a 1997-2001 Escort, since parts interchanges suggest that it's the same compressor.
  20. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    OK, so don't use an online junkyard for this part! I assume that's what you are saying is to find one with a good orifice and if the compressor spins and preferably the system still has pressure (probably not since I'd assume that the JY already released the pressure).

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