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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
From what I'm reading I think I need:

New head (what is a good source?)
New piston(s). If I replace one, I probably should do them all so they are balanced, right?
Piston rings
Rod bearings (as long as we're down there, I tell my wife the same thing lol)

Am I missing anything?

This is for a 95 LX 1.9 with about 140k miles on it. Compression was about 140 psi a year ago before I took a 4,000 mile trip.

Red Scort Down!!
Red Scort Down!!
 

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If you're absolutely sure, then remove the head and check the damage. Rotate the crankshaft and inspect the cylinder wall. Check the combustion chamber for damage. If there's more damage than dings and indentations on the top of the piston and in the combustion chamber then you're facing the REALLY BIG OBJECTIVE!!! If not, remove the valve associated with the valve seat, check the area where the valve seat is pressed in, check the valve. If both are good, press fit a new valve seat and reseat the valve with valve grinding compound, clean and reassemble the valve in the head, then reassemble the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Dave. I'm going to pull the spark plugs and see what I can find in there. I live in a condo so I can only do so much (anything not making a mess).

As a backup, does anyone have a good head, or a line on a new head?
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Aren't the dings and indentations going to create turbulence in the cylinder with the gasses going in and out?

Sorry, I was playing in Photoshop and couldn't resist.

Wheel Car Automotive parking light Tire Automotive side marker light
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I took a short video before I started looking at things. Plugs 1-3 had a lot of carbon black on them. This is not typical for this car. Number 4 had a lot of wet gas on it, it was pretty washed clean. I'm guessing 4 is the problem child. 1-3 may have had the carbon because I had to hold my foot to the floor to get it to start (never had to do that before).

 

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dont get too ahead of yourself, first thing is to pull the head and inspect the damage. 1.9 pistons are almost impossible to find these days, there is one source i found.
 

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Mega thread on this here:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My shop said I had no compression on number 4. They're going to take a boroscope to check it, but I think I know who the problem child is.

To me this is very strange. I did the yardcheck, and parked my car to start work- no noise, running fine. 12 hours later I go to start the car (10F) and it doesn't want to start and has the noise. It's almost as it it dropped when I shut the car off.

It's about 1200 to take the head off and put it back on. Plus whatever work that needs to be done to the head/replacement. I had the foresight to buy a gasket kit- just in case.

Does anyone have a line on a replacement head if I need one? They used to be on Ebay about $250, but that was a while ago.
 

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My shop said I had no compression on number 4. They're going to take a boroscope to check it, but I think I know who the problem child is.

To me this is very strange. I did the yardcheck, and parked my car to start work- no noise, running fine. 12 hours later I go to start the car (10F) and it doesn't want to start and has the noise. It's almost as it it dropped when I shut the car off.

It's about 1200 to take the head off and put it back on. Plus whatever work that needs to be done to the head/replacement. I had the foresight to buy a gasket kit- just in case.

Does anyone have a line on a replacement head if I need one? They used to be on Ebay about $250, but that was a while ago.
I've had luck with Cylinder Heads International (headsonly.com) two times so far. They remove, replace, re-seat intakes, replace what's needed, weld if cracked, on my 1.9's and they're still running :)
 

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I've had luck with Cylinder Heads International (headsonly.com) two times so far. They remove, replace, re-seat intakes, replace what's needed, weld if cracked, on my 1.9's and they're still running :)
OOps, just checked Cyl Hds Intl as parts are hard to find and saw they don't have a 1.9. The dings on a head can either be left or removed, depending on extent of damage, but the hidden wrist pin damage is what'll kill it if the valve deformed the piston enough. With pan off, ez to check...Costly to overlook.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So the shop confirmed it's number 4. They said there was a chunk taken out around the valve and the head couldn't be saved. (I'm still looking at machine shops anyway)

They are trying to find me a head (new or used, but used won't be the updated version with the fixes).

Does anyone in the Chicago area have one in their parts stockpile? I'm kicking myself I didn't save this from the last Escort.
 

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Usually is #4, its the 'hottest cyl'... some pics of the damage would be nice. problem with a used ebay head is that your replacing a damaged head with one that will probably fail too. there are updated valve seats that are installed when the heads are remanufactured. get on the google, and search .. start calling reman shops.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What area are you in and how many miles are on it?
 

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California I had 210k miles on it when I swapped it for BP. $150 new valve seals and shipped to your door. Car was also an automatic so and driven by an older lady for the majority of its life. I’m second owner
 

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Our 1st Escort dropped the #3 seat just a month after we bought it. We took it to an engine rebuilder for repair and he pinned all 4 exhaust seats in place. If anyone is getting a valve job done on a CVH engine make sure the seats are pinned in place and never worry about dropping a valve seat again. I drove that car for 110,000 miles and in a way regret trading it for Mr. White. just because of that engine. But then again, Mr. White has given us 220,000 miles of service The guy who rebuilt that engine passed away about 10 years ago.
 
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