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Here's an old How-To I posted on ERDT.

How to change a thermostat (specific to 1.9's, 2.0's)

First, if you don't have one, I highly reccommend getting a magnetic parts tray. Save's a lot of headaches looking for crap :wink:


Remove intake AND airbox (still shown in car).


Two screws attach coil pack bracket to block, two to EGR tube, and one hidden underneath (shown with a 6" long 1/4" extension, screw is battery tray height) Disconnect harnesses and re-locate the coil pack.



If any of your hoses look like this, you'll want to remove and replace those later. If you don't have any hose, stop now and get parts first.


View in engine bay from front drivers fender. In the center of the pic you can see the rad drain cock. The drain cock is on the driver side of the rad.


Remove rad cap (Make sure the car is cooled off first).


And drain coolant. (As nice looking as that coolant is it was almost 10 years old :shock: ) If you're just chaning the T-stat, you only need to drain 2-3L. If you're doing a full flush it all comes out.


Remove thermostat housing. The three bolts are obvious. Clean the head surface. Stuff a CLEAN rag into the water jacket to preven getting crap in your cooling system. Clean using a scraper, emery cloth, wire wheel, etc. Surface should be finger smooth with no significant peaks or valleys. REMOVE RAG.


Pull the thermostat from the housing.


And the rubber seal if it's stuck too.


Clean the thermostat housing the same way as the head surface. Rinse under clean water to remove any debris. Install the new T-stat.


Now to that pesky hose. If it's the larger intake hose, go buy the proper fitted hose. If it's the sensor/heater line, std. 3/4" heater hose works fine. You have to cut the band off. Then you can install the replacement hose over the nipple.


Re-install the thermostat housing with a NEW GASKET. The gasket cost me under a buck. Install all the hoses and tighten mildly snug. Re-install the intake, the coil pack, and anything else you took off to get at it.



Once everything has been installed. CLOSE THE DRAIN COCK ON THE RAD.

If you're doing a full flush follow this. If you just toping up, go to adding coolant.

Fill with 100% water. Run your vehicle with the rad cap off and the hose running into the rad fill. Let it run for about 5-10 min. Drain the water and re-fill with 100% water until the water removed is clear with little to no debris. Once water drained is clean and clear, drain the water and fill with coolant.

Adding coolant:

DO NOT USE 100% ANFREEZE

Select a mix based on the area which you live. Usually 50/50 or 60/40 antifreeze/water works best. Seek advice if unsure. For best performance, mix with distilled water opposed to domestic tap water.

Fill the rad until it's full. Let the vehicle run for a few min with the rad cap off and top up as required with the vehicle running. There will be air bubbles trapped in the block and this will work most of them out. Stop when coolant level stays constant.



It's not required, but usually good practice to change the rad pressure cap when you do a coolant change.


Put the rad cap on and check that the vehicle reaches operating temperature. Minor fluctuations will occur for the first little while as any remainig air works it's way out. If it continues to fluctuate severely or overheat you probably left that rag wedged in the head :p


Top up the coolant bottle.


Done :wink:

Matt 8)
 

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Put the rad cap on and check that the vehicle reaches operating temperature. Minor fluctuations will occur for the first little while as any remainig air works it's way out. If it continues to fluctuate severely or overheat you probably left that rag wedged in the head
8O

Sounds like you made that mistake once before. LOL

excellent writer upper j00s has. :thumbsup:
 

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Nice write-up Matt.

Just a note that there is a headless coolant plug in the block, very near the bottom on the exhaust side of the engine.

If you're just doing a drain and refill, remove this plug to ensure all old coolant is removed. Draining via the rad drain-cock will not get out the dregs. Then refill.

Finally, a full coolant flush is recommended every two years.
 

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I'm still lost for a 98 ford escort SOHC:

a. what should i unplug, a drain plug, a hose or spout? I have had a few mixed answers.

b. how do i drip it into the pan, a hose, or just with hoping it hits the pan?

c. picture of what to unplug? i was informed its on the drivers side bottom
 

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I'm still lost for a 98 ford escort SOHC:

a. what should i unplug, a drain plug, a hose or spout? I have had a few mixed answers.

b. how do i drip it into the pan, a hose, or just with hoping it hits the pan?

c. picture of what to unplug? i was informed its on the drivers side bottom
 

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A: I don't even know what the heck you are talking about here. Everything you need to know is right here in the how-to. The procedure is exactly the same for your 98.

B: Your choice.

C: The drain petcock would be what you are talking about.
 
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