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Ok. I have torn it apart minus taking out the dash and still cannot find where that wire hooks up. I did learn one thing. The cables to the tempurature control unit are best unhooked from the black box instead of the unit itself, I kind of messed up my cables taking out and putting in the new ones. Looks like it will be time for a junkyard trip. On the bright side, I have taken it halfway apart so many times now I know it by heart so it should not be long before I actually get the pics that I had wanted the first time, and since it is not all that difficult I could probably do it at my apartment on a weekend or something so that the manager does not walk by. Besides, I want to go back in a put all the screws I left out in LOL. I have already done so with most of them. Man that one wire is so elusive. If anyone knows anything I would much appreciate it. Until next time, See Ya.
 
As far as I know there are a couple different things. It could get clogged just like the radiator can. Also, I have read that sometimes the chemical balance of the antifreeze/water mix can become sort of corrosive and you can test for that and it will start to eat away at the heater core. I forget the test but you would have to buy some sort of tester and if it is bad then you just have to flush your whole coolent system and ta-da, just like new. Other than that I have no clue what else apart from physical damage could do it and it would be hard for it to get damaged I would imagine being as that they are usually buried and you would pretty much have to destroy the firewall to damage it, ie. accident, and by then that would be the least of your worries I am sure :D. Oh, and I plan to do the pictures this week with my girl. She is going to be my camera woman :D. I will not go all the way too the core but I will go pretty much to the black box and then in is just three more bolts from there, I just don't want to waste coolent and have to get into the engine again to to it all. But I will get pics of the 3 bolts holing on the heater box. I think I know where the wire goes that I could not find and I think I have to take the dash off anyways to get to it so this will be killing two birds with one stone.
 
since my heads off the one i just got & there was a bunch of rust in the coolant i was thinking of spraying something that might kill rust into it or grab the garden hose & shove it in both holes (hose facing ground) hoping that might make sure it works.

if i knew how to cut metal id try pullin it outa the firewall

i had it do it in my daily driver few yrs ago & no way i would take apart the black box for it. i remember just running to a jy witn one that looked clean & pulling the black box out for a swap, it got the job done.

good luck getting the rear dash bolts back in, i know i had alot of leftovers.

i just remember a few ground wires on both sides. i ended up putting the pside ground on the clove box bar, ididnt figure out where it came from.
 
Great news! I have lots of pics. I do not however know where this one wire goes still. It saddens me but I am sure I will figure it out eventually, I am going to work on the How-To today and place my pics somewhere to be hosted :D See you all later.
 
Heater Core Swap with Pics

Ok, here goes. Please note that some screws my be missing in the pictures, I occasionally got ahead of myself. I may try to go into paint or similar later and doctor some of the pics to show exactly what is being talked about. Any damages caused by this are not the fault of FEOA.NET or myself. If this should be moved to a new thread, let me know, and as for sources, THIS THREAD HAS BEEN MY SOURCE, I just added pics and a few tips. Sorry for lack of pics all the way to the end but the last is a breeze anyways.

The tools needed for this job are very minimal. You need:

T20 Torx bit
Phillips screwdriver
Flat screwdriver (for prying only)
10 mm wrench
10 mm socked
12 mm socket
ratchet((s) if using more than one size like in my cheap tool set)
ratchet extension(s)
pliers
Ford radio removal tool (or a cut up hanger)

ALSO REALLY HELPFUL

flexible bit driver (helps for the window mold piece)
camera
sharpy
small ziplock baggies

These are to store screws and bolts and write on them what they go to. It really really helps and saves time even though you feel like your wasting time.

Step one: Assemble all tools needed.

Step two: Disconnect battery cable.

Step three: Disconnect Speedo cable (better now than later and it gives you a chance to wash up) Do this by removing the C-clip that holds it in located just under the fuel filter in the engine compartment which next to th e break booster. This will give you the slack needed to remove the instrument cluster. Also disconnect the heater core and plug the hoses in whatever fashion you desire, there are many ways described previously in this thread.

Step four: Remove radio using the tool or hanger. It should slide out with a bit of jiggling, some are a bit sticky if they have the rubber piece at the back to hold it steady. Carefully unhook all wires from the radio and set aside. Also remove the ashtray.



Step five: Remove the glove box. You will find two torx at the bottom, one on each side. Once these are taken out it just pivots on two nubs and can be removed easily.




Step six: Remove the side panel on the passenger side by prying it out with screwdriver. Once this is removed you will see a torx. Remove it, I found using a torx bit with a 1/4 inch drive and 1/4 inch socked to put the bit in got it since my bit tool was too long, and the others that are under the dash and remove the panel that is to the right of the glove box. It will also have a snap in piece so it will give some resistance.




Step seven: On the drivers side remove the same panel and take out the torx there as well as the ones underneath the dash panel. There will also be one torx on the right top of the panel underneath a pop-out. Just use your screwdriver to release it and remove the screw. This will have snap-ins as well and so will give some resistance. Don't pull to hard, you have to remove the dimmer wire from it before removing it completely.




Step eight: Remove the screws holding in the shifter/parking break piece. There will be six of them, 2 in front, 2 in the middle, and two in the back, then slide the back piece back a couple of inches and remove the shifter cover.





Step nine: Unhook the cable from the white gears on the black box that lead to the temperature control unit. They are very easy to do at this point and if you try and remove them from the unit itself without doing this, you will damage the cable. Once they have popped off the quick-disconnect tabs, you must also unclip them from the metal braces, make marks on them if you wish so you can position them the same way later.




Step ten: Remove the 4 torx holding the center dash on, two on the left, one on the right where the glove box shuts, and one in where the ash tray is. Slowly pull out the whole thing and disconnect the wires and vacuum hoses from the temperature control unit and make sure not to kink the cable or pull to hard. Once that is out set aside.





Step eleven: Remove the cover from the steering column by removing the screws and then unsnapping the cover from itself. Set aside and locate the four bolts that hold the steering column up. Undo using a 12 mm socket and rachet with extension. Gently lower column to the seat.



Step twelve: Take out the 8 torx that hold the black part of the dash on. 3 on the inside, 5 underneath, with 3 on the left and 2 on the right. Remove this panel making sure to unhook the wires clusters on each side and set aside.







Step thirteen: Undo the 4 torx holding the gauge cluster in, the black, not the gold ones. Slowly pull the cluster out making sure not to pull to hard, if needed have someone press the speedo cable into the firewall from the other side to avoid undue stress. Remove the three wire clusters and the speedo by compressing the black thing and pulling out, can be tricky at first but once you get it the first time it is easy. Set aside





Step fourteen: Remove the trim panel right under the window by undoing the one torx found in the center. This is best done with a flexible bit driver but can also be done with just a T20 torx that you have been using the whole time and a pair of pliers. pry it out, it has many snaps that hold it in so be careful and try to pry evenly. Once removed there are 3 more bolts. They are 10mm and are best gotten with an open ended wrench, it just takes a bit and is slow going. Also, it is a great idea to tie something to the other end of the wrench to avoid dropping it in the dash, saved for sure. Remove those and set the trim aside.

Step fifteen: Remove the four bolts holding the lower dash to the floor board, and the four bolts, two on either side of the dash that hold it to the fire wall. At this point your dash is free of the car except for many wires that need to be unplugged. You can pivot it toward you and then look into the widow from the outsisde to make sure you are getting all the wires. Also make sure you get the vents unhooked on both sides, they are just small connector peices that snap off. DO NOT FORGET TO PUT THESE BACK OR YOU WILL NO AIR OR HEAT COMING OUT OF YOUR SIDE VENTNS. Once it is unhooked, remove dash and set aside.





Step sixteen: The black box in the center is held on by three torx, remove them and pull the unit out. Remove the three screws that hold in the heater core, and put in a new one.

Step seventeen: Reverse the whole process.
 
I have a question on unhooking the vacuum lines from the heater control unit.

How do you get them off? Mine seem to be stuck...I pressed a black button and now the plastic where the lines plug into started to come apart, and it does not seem to want to stay together now.

What I'm talking about is held onto the control unit with 2 screws and the Vacuum lines plug into it.

Has anyone had one come apart like this? I can see a spring that holds the button up

I hope i didn't break it. :mad:
Thanks, Tom
 
When I took mine off I just used a screwdriver to pry at the rubber part instead of the plastic, once you get one side over it you can just forcefully pull it off. The new Temperature Control Unit I got from the junkyard was broke when I purchased it, I did not know that, but at least the electronics worked so I have heat :D. I figure by now you have already finished what you were doing, sorry I did not check back very soon, holidays, busy times.
 
kaoshavoc said:
When I took mine off I just used a screwdriver to pry at the rubber part instead of the plastic, once you get one side over it you can just forcefully pull it off. The new Temperature Control Unit I got from the junkyard was broke when I purchased it, I did not know that, but at least the electronics worked so I have heat :D. I figure by now you have already finished what you were doing, sorry I did not check back very soon, holidays, busy times.
Thanks! Yeah I got it finally. When putting it back on I used some WD-40 so it slid right on...I think If I would have used it to take it off it would have been easier.
 
Well, I finally had to do my heater core Saturday. Took me 8 hours, but it was my first one in an Escort. I really took my time so I wouldn't crack my 15 year old dash. Only had 4 fasteners left, and I know where one of them goes. I want to thank everyone who has posted here for all the great information.
 
2fs2ns said:
Thought I'd share a picture with you guys. I went in blindly and replaced one in my '95. Had the haynes manual, but didn't help too much once I got in deep. I thought I'd never get it back together...but it all worked out nicely.

The only thing I didn't take a picture of was the pile of bolts left over when I was done.

Did that hurricane do any other damage?
 
1Sleepy93 said:
You forgot to mention that if you neglect replacing or bypassing the heater core after it springs a leak, it can ruin your ECU. Since Ford was nice enough to put it right were it will get dripped on after it blows. :wink:

Hasn't happened to me but it could deffinately happen to someone.
it really drips on the ecu?
my heater cores been gone for ever and my car still runs.
 
I've read through the whole thread, and all of you who have done it have 91-96 models...

Anyone happens to know if the job's any easier on a 97-99?

My heater core has been leaking for a while, but with winter on us now, dry air windshield ventilation will be absolutely required... which means I'll finally have to fix this.

Thanks in advance!
 
nothing to add but just to complain...

I did a heater core on older Subaru and it was a similar convoluted nightmare.

My point... The first Generation Escorts were a breeze todo the heater core. They accessed through the glove box opening... in and out with a minimum of fuss and inconvenience. Such a great scheme; why;d they have to screw it up?
 
Pics back up.

Sorry guys that I let my account with photobucket go dead, but the pics are back up now for any that need them.
 
I've been smelling antifreeze in the car, and my coolant level has been steadily falling with no noticeable leaks in the engine bay. I'm assuming that the heater core is probably leaking...but I'm not finding any wetness on the floor of the car, so I'm not really certain.

After reading this, and watching the video...I think I might just do a quick heater core bypass, at least for the time being. I live in the SF Bay Area where it drops below freezing maybe 1/2 a dozen days a year.

If I still lose coolant and smell it inside the car after the next few months, I may attempt to swap out the heater core. It definitely doesn't look like fun.

In the meantime, I might as well make a list of other things to do while I'm in there - fixing the speedometer cable (shaky speedo needle), replacing the light bulbs in the instrument cluster (so I can see how fast I'm going at night), and try to figure out why the heater fan is so dang loud.
 
Instrument Panel Lamps

ChrisM said:
......................... It definitely doesn't look like fun.

In the meantime, I might as well make a list of other things to do while I'm in there - fixing the speedometer cable (shaky speedo needle), replacing the light bulbs in the instrument cluster (so I can see how fast I'm going at night), and try to figure out why the heater fan is so dang loud.
Stay in touch on this work. I'm interested both in the heater core replacement AND the dash panel lamps; I have only ONE lamp that works, on the far right; Can't see speedo nor odometer; it's a guesssing game at night.

Good luck,

LarryR : )
 
Re: Instrument Panel Lamps

LariRudi said:
ChrisM said:
......................... It definitely doesn't look like fun.

In the meantime, I might as well make a list of other things to do while I'm in there - fixing the speedometer cable (shaky speedo needle), replacing the light bulbs in the instrument cluster (so I can see how fast I'm going at night), and try to figure out why the heater fan is so dang loud.
Stay in touch on this work. I'm interested both in the heater core replacement AND the dash panel lamps; I have only ONE lamp that works, on the far right; Can't see speedo nor odometer; it's a guesssing game at night.

Good luck,

LarryR : )
At least you have the one working light...I have zero working lights in the dash. I don't even have inerior lights, because of a short somewhere that's causing the fuse to blow.
 
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