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I got the new Belt. Gates T194, made in USA. I have no idea how old it is, maybe someone here can understand the dates codes on it? It is exactly like the Motorcraft belt I removed, except the new one has all 97 teeth.






This is the warranty item from inside the box:
 
Got the belt installed and the car starts and runs. I will test drive it tomorrow.

Notes:
Getting the new belt on was a pain. It took me a while to figure out that I simply wasn't prying the timing belt tensioner far enough. Once I put a small block of wood inbetween the tensioner and my pry bar, I was able to get it over enough and the belt was real easy to install. I did not remove the spark plugs as per the factory service manual. I had no trouble rotating the crankshaft, so why bother. I was unable to properly torque the crankshaft with my torque wrench, so I installed it with my HF electric impact tool.
 
Got the belt installed and the car starts and runs. I will test drive it tomorrow.

Notes:
Getting the new belt on was a pain. It took me a while to figure out that I simply wasn't prying the timing belt tensioner far enough. Once I put a small block of wood inbetween the tensioner and my pry bar, I was able to get it over enough and the belt was real easy to install. I did not remove the spark plugs as per the factory service manual. I had no trouble rotating the crankshaft, so why bother. I was unable to properly torque the crankshaft with my torque wrench, so I installed it with my HF electric impact tool.
I never have torqued my crank pulley. I just use my HF impact to snug it.
 
I don't know if that is white, or the way the light is reflecting off whatever is there. If I were to speculate, the white areas are thinner and presumably where the teeth started coming off.
 
Okay I have a 95 1.9 Lx an I have seen we're it is a non - interference motor, now hear is my question if the belt breaks won't that through the car out of time ?? The cam an crank shaft on point but how do I know if I'm in the right spot to put the belt on
 
You mean valve timing ?
If the cam and crankshaft are in the correct alignment when you put the belt on, that will set the timing correctly.
(The spark timing is determined by a sensor that reads top-dead-center on the crank I believe).
I posted a link on page 5 here, to another post showing the alignment marks.
That link is to :
Which timing marks to use ?
http://www.feoa.net/threads/which-timing-marks-to-use-pics.54875/
 
So what if ones off how do I know if the compress is right it can't be that simple I was told I have to use a compression gauge that sound right ? We're you do a dry test then put oil in then run a wet test ??? Idk
 
So what if ones off how do I know if the compress is right it can't be that simple I was told I have to use a compression gauge that sound right ? We're you do a dry test then put oil in then run a wet test ??? Idk
There is no need to worry about compression when installing a timing belt.

Timing these engines is very easy. All you have to do it line up the marks on the cam and crank pulleys with the marks on the engine. The cam Pulley has a arrow that points to a dot on the head

And the crank has an arrow that lines up with the oil pump housing
 
I think its always best to turn it in the same direction it does when it is running; which means clockwise, as viewed from the wheel arch. I turn the crankshaft a total of four complete rotations. This is two rotations at the camshaft. This is to let the belt line up with the way it will be on the top and bottom sprockets. Then you loosen the tensioner again, to let it fully expand against the belt, and torque it up. I always make another turn, just to check that the marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the camshaft sprocket are not off by a tooth.
 
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