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If you make a few (modifications) to your car it is easy to change or inspect the timing belt..
You can leave the mount on, You can bump the starter to brake the 19mm bolt loose..
You can use a socket and pry bare to compress the spring tensioner..

Take fan belt loose at altenator first but do not let it fall down to much, kind of hang with a tie up close to alternater to aid in putting back later.. Take it loose from crank but leave it on the rest of the pulleys....

Before you go back together (modifi) mount and cover, cut the ear of the engine mount and get rid of the weight and one finger off the left side of the cover to make it easy to get the cover on and off in the future .... Note if you plan to change the water pump the mount must come off..
 
As for the belt tensioner, I use a snapon 3/8 drive 12mm simi-deep socket to pry the tensioner back and a pry bar to push with..

Slip the socket in to the water pump right side of tensioner.. Now its easy to compress the spring..

Now lock the tensioner down with a 10mm socket and put the belt on.. then let the tensioner out...
 
For fuck's sake, I don't get it. Probably because I'm a carpenter by trade and most things I fix require little more than a hammer. If the camshaft sprocket turns at two to one of the crank, then you can only judge your alignment of both sprockets on every other revolution. So if you took the timing chain cover off and tried to gauge where those two pulley were, relative to each other, you'd be wasting your time. I may have wasted that time, but it's too late, the new timing belt is on and the engine sounds exactly like it did before. It seems like if your cam and crank are out of time, and you have no idea how far, you'd need to know more than just lining.up a notch on two pulleys. The crank is going to reliably be in the position you need it in once it's notch is lined up, but the cam is only going to be there every other rotation. It seems like every tutorial/video I've found has no regard for how to find the exact cycle of cam shaft rotation. Almost like they assume your timing only jumped a.little and you know better than to spin things past the closest possible alignment. But if you're turning them separate or your timing jumped waaaay off, then how would you know if you're on the same spin. Do I take it all apart and rotate the camshaft 360 degrees and try again. Am I over thiking this or under thinking this?
 
french: The marks on the pulleys are all you need to line up. It wont matter how many turns one way or the other for either crank or camshaft, because on this engine there isnt a distributor to line up.
I have fixed up several Escorts, and I find its easier to get the timing belt on correctly if I set the cam pulley to the right spot, and the crankshaft to the right mark, then turn the crankshaft counterclockwise half a tooth. This makes it easier to slide the timing belt on, since the 'tension' side doesnt have to be so taut. Once its on I loosen the tensioner, retighten it in the "tensioned position", turn the crankshaft two turns to finishing getting the belt centered on the pulleys, then re-tension the tensioner - and torque the tensioner bolt.

I have a Dodge minivan with the Mitsubshi 2.6L engine, and besides lining up the crankshaft and camshaft, you have to line up the distributor drive, plus a countershaft.
 
Dude as a carpenter then, you do have a chalk string correct? Use that to mark the line up.... Or use a piece of fishing string..... In the camshaft,thats the top gear,you will turn it and point it to 12 o'clock.. You will see there is a pointer on that gear,point it's at 12 o'clock.. Look at the head at the same 12 o'clock point.. you will see a small dot made into the head.. Take a red marker and dot it.. Now it is easy to see... Thats at the top part of this game...

Now the bottom gear too has a dot on it.. turn it to 12 0'clock and mark that dot red too... That gear too has a point on it,it will be were the dot is and at 12 o'clock... Then you will see a slit cut in the oil pump housing at 12 o'clock.. line up that bottom gear with that slit...


Now to test your true line up... take that chalk string and run the string from the top to the bottom... If it runs through the middle of the to gear center bolts and lines up with the dots,pointers and the slit, you have it correct.....

Are you can use a fishing string, hooked to the top gear and line it up with the bottom gear, the same way as the chalk line.... Piece of cake..
 
Yeah, that seems simple enough and I'm certain I lined them up. Just no luck, was hoping it would crank right up. The sporadic sound of the spin got me over thinking it. My timing may not have been off in the first place. Please correct my train of thought. My car was not running. Bought it from a guy that said it did the silent death while one of his guys was driving it. Also said the guy was not well versed at driving a manual and over revved it. If my car was running and I took the timing belt loose, rotated the CAMSHAFT 360 degress, would it still run? I need to search on here to find if anyone ever lost a crank position sensor. The Hines manual calls it a VRS (variable resistance sensor) Any other thoughts on it would be greatly appreciated. I'm gonna get back after it with my hammer on the first decent day I can work on it.
 
Yes, it would still run if you rotated the crankshaft 360 degrees - which would bring it back to the same position it had been in before you rotate it. You could also rotate the camshaft 360 degrees. The electronics would not know or care.
I dont know if the Crankshaft Position Sensor is a variable resistance or not. I know its got a small magnet in its end, and the teeth on the crankshaft sprocket spinning past create a signal that the PCM gets. The missing tooth is how the PCM know what position the crankshaft is in. The Camshaft Position Sensor is also a magnet with a coil wrapped around it. It sticks in the back of the head and senses the movement of a small lump on the camshaft. This is to let the PCM know when the injectors are to be fired for each cylinder. I -think- from what I have heard other members say, that disconnecting the cam position sensor wont prevent the engine from running. It will just default to a mode where it fires the injector at the correct -rate-, but not at the exact time the intake valve is opening. The car supposedly will run almost as well as normal, with a slight loss of smoothness at an idle.
I think if your crank position sensor dies, then the engine wont run; because the PCM wont tell the EDIS to fire the plugs, nor to trigger the injectors. Im not sure about that part though.
 
I havent read the first few pages in this thread for a long time; but your symptoms would make me suspicious of the Throttle Position Sensor, the Mass Air Flow goody in the air filter housing, and the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor - or its connector.
 
No discussion of brands of replacement timing belts?

So far I can say:
Dayco = Italy, and this I think applies to all of their timing belts, not just the 95194
Gates = Mexico (T194)
Continental = Mexico (CRP TB194)
Goodyear = probably Mexico, since that's where their serpentine belts are made
Bando = unknown, but Japanese company and probably not made in USA.
AC Delco = probably Mexico

No name brands I would not touch like Cloyes, etc I am not interested in researching.
 
Gates used to have a belt-making plant near Sparta NC, but closed it - when they opened their plant near Monterrey Coahuila. My sister-in-law's hubby lost his job at the Sparta plant, and a 3rd cousin in Mexico got a job at the plant in Monterrey.
 
Still waiting on that new timing belt. It's been more than a week and Amazon hasn't even shipped it (I am adding this to my long list of reasons to hate Amazon). One question though, what's the proper way to tension the belt. I know to put the belt back on then pry the tensioner back, but how tight should a new belt be? Supposedly tension on a new belt is a little more than a used belt, and I don't think this is an automatic tensioner (if it is then my spring is broken or otherwise not working) and I am planning on prying the tensioner back anyway. The internet suggests that it should be relatively easy to twist the belt 45 degrees on it's longest span and difficult to twist it 90 degrees (with just 2 fingers). Unless I am missing here?? There doesn't seem to be a pin, or place for tool or ratchet on the timing belt tensioner for the purposes of applying tension. Unless I am missing something.
 
With the 2nd gens, I get the belt on, timed right, and tighten the tensioner clamping bolt. Then I turn the engine two more time, and bring it to a stop with the cam and crankshaft both at the setting for correct time - and I loosen the tensioner bolt, maybe nudge it forward with my fingers only - and then tighten the bolt to the torque value. With my first one, I pushed the tensioner with wooden rod, to make the belt tighter. That belt snapped 30k miles lates. Now I just depend on the spring in the tensioner slider to be tight enough'
 
h bolt out of the timing belt tensioner, you can

If you take the bolt out of the timing belt tensioner, you can slide the square “nut” out of the slot, and the spring too. It would at let you know there wasnt something jamming up the sliding “nut”.

I am presuming you have the serpentine belt tensioner off, other wise it would be in the way.

The 2nd gen 1.9L tensioner doesnt tighten once you torque down the bolt in the tensioner. Shouldnt loosen either, if the bearing in the tensioner is okay.
 
Just checked. The spring is there and intact. I think I just need to free it up and exercise the spring. I found one more of the missing teeth of the old belt. I cleaned up the area. But honestly, I spent more time working on 2 other cars.
 
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