How-To: Replace Timing Belt on 2nd Gen LX (56k not welcome) | Page 3 | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)

How-To: Replace Timing Belt on 2nd Gen LX (56k not welcome)

Discussion in 'How-To's' started by 94scortlx, Feb 3, 2006.

  1. Manifold_Destroyer

    Manifold_Destroyer Guest

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    thanks for the quick reply! I talked to my friend about this and he said it may also be that the catalytic converter must be taken out or poke a hole in it to let the engine breathe more or something like that...just doesn't sound right to me. I still think the timing is off, just need to get back under the hood again.

    thanks again!
  2. silverton

    silverton FEOA Member

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    was it running fine before you had to change the belt? if that's the case, you missed when aligning the notches :p
  3. Manifold_Destroyer

    Manifold_Destroyer Guest

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    yeah, the car was running great! Was able to peel rubber just fine, now I can't! :(
  4. silverton

    silverton FEOA Member

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    timing is off then, go get dirty again!
  5. Manifold_Destroyer

    Manifold_Destroyer Guest

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    lol, yeah i'll certainly get dirty again. :p Theres nothing else I should be worry about, should I?

    What if the timing was right? I'm pretty sure it is, but i'll check again.
  6. 94scortlx

    94scortlx FEOA Member

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    ive got money down that says you didnt align everything correctly! The crank position sensor should be on the 9th tooth and it should match at TDC
  7. ryanhettenbach

    ryanhettenbach Guest

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    I'm new to the board, however I've done many many many timing belts in the past. What the tutorial doesn't illustrate are the following steps. They are VERY important in order to get everything tensioned correctly.

    "3...Rotate the crankshaft clockwise two complete revolutions (720 degrees) stopping at TDC. This will allow the timing chain/belt tensioner spring (6L273) to load the timing chain/belt.

    4. NOTE: Do not turn the engine counterclockwise to line up the timing marks.<I assume that this means that it's OK to turn it clockwise only>

    NOTE: After rotation, recheck the camshaft and crankshaft timing marks for alignment. This will verify that the timing chain/belt has not skipped a tooth during rotation.

    Tighten the timing chain/belt tensioner bolt to 23-30 N-m (17-22 lb-ft)."

    if you're not doing this, the slack will not be taken up correctly by the tensioner and then when you go to start the car it will jump timing. There is NO need to pry the tensioner pulley with a crow bar. You should be using a torque wrench instead and once that tensioner bolt is tightened to 22lb-ft, the tensioner will be where it should.
  8. Kamikazehunter

    Kamikazehunter FEOA Member

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    After having a timing belt blow out on me at 5:30am on the way back to oshkosh from madison I can categorically state this thread was extremely helpful, with a couple of additional points.

    1) While you are replacing the timing belt you may as well replace the serpentine belt, you have to remove it to get to the timing belt, so now is a good time to do it.

    2) Make SURE you clean out any remnants of the old belt, pay close attention to the gap between the crank pulley and the bottom of the casing, as a lot of belts when failing simply strip the teeth from the belt and leave it otherwise complete (this is what mine did)

    3) recheck the tensioning after rotating the engine (the 720 degree turn of the crank) and checking the timing for alignment.

    Use the engineer's adage - check twice, reassemble once. This is something I ALWAYS do when fitting timing belts.

    Walmart do a $30 12v impact wrench, it's very useful to remove the crank pulley bolt from the auto escorts, has almost no kick and can crack the wheel bolts too.

    As long as you don't rush the job, recheck everything before trying to start the car, and don't try to take shortcuts it's not all that hard to do, I took 3 hours over mine, but it's the first belt I have done on a 1.9 2nd gen escort, and the car now works perfectly again.
  9. handyguy

    handyguy Guest

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    timing issue

    great writeup about the timing belt change! Remember that the 2.0 litre does not require you to jack up the engine and remove the motor mount. I have also discovered that I can change the belt without having to remove the surpentine tensioner, but it does make it easier. I have a problem that I cannot figure out. I replaced the head and had the replacment resurfaced, and for some reason, the timing marks will not line up once I get the belt put on. it is either too far advanced or retarted. Is it possilble for the belt to stretch? I know it has fibers running thru it to keep it tight, the way radial plies in a tire are...

    Here's what I have tried:
    I line the pulleys up at both marks (#1 TDC) and put on the belt. the haynes manual says to turn the crankshaft 2 turns clockwise to remove any slack. when I do that, the crank lines up advanced what appears to be 1 tooth forward. I have found that I can release the tensioner again, and turn the crank counterclockwise until it skips 1 tooth, but then it is retart further than when it is advanced the other direction. At this point, I am ready to tow the car to a metal recyclers, but I know the car has potential. The camshaft pulleys would not be any different size for the same motor would they? sorry, I'm still lost and getting frustrated. :mad:
  10. bdw02c

    bdw02c Guest

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    Great Post!

    Thanks million for the great instructions! My idler pulley had been clankering for a few weeks and finally gave out on me. So I opted to change the water pump (which includes a new idler pulley attached) and the timing belt. This was my first ever timing belt and I think it went fairly smooth. I think it took me about 4-5 hours to get it all off and back together.

    Difficulties:
    1) The timing belt cover was terrible to get off. When I finally did get it off, I cut the bottom portion off so I could get it back on.
    2) Getting the hoses of my water pump took almost an hour. I will tell you, there is no shortage of sharp edges down there either. Ford needs to learn to round off corners.
    3)I was surprised how tight the timing belt fit. Even with the idler slid all the way left it took us 5 or six fittings to get it on the cam pulley.
    4)Aligning the crank with the cam. I was really nervous about this. The instructions seems a little too unscientific for me. I assume it would make a difference if the cam and crank were even just one tooth apart. I was able to find better marks for aligning the crank. On the engine block, just above the crank is a cast piece of metal that covers the oil pump housing (i think).In the piece of cast metal is a semi-circle notch about 2 mm wide. You should align the notch in the crank pulley with that semi-circle notch. If you put your eyes just above the fender and look down with a light you can get a pretty good angle. Also, my pulley had a white dot on the front side to help you find the notch on the pulley.

    I had no problems getting the crank pulley off at all. I did what you said and got a crowbar, taped up the end and wedged it in place. For me, the best fit was to climb under the car and wedge the taped end in a tooth and place the other end on the ground. Worked perfectly. If you don't have a crowbar, my friend said he had a similar dilemma and found a Rocky boot will wedge in there pretty good against the firewall.

    Thanks again for the instructions. I saved myself some money for sure.
  11. Poppawolf

    Poppawolf FEOA Member

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    I agree with the others on the good instructions. Just had my belt go on me at 1:30am while coming home from work. In case you don't know what it feels like, your car will die. Crank all you want, it is going no where. Instead of using the crow bar and possibly messing up the gear teeth, take a hammer and hit the ratchet handle up. Kind of like an impact wrench would do. After a couple of whacks it spun loose. And as stated, make sure your timing is on. I had mine way off because I looked at the wrong marks. Then when I found the little tab was aligned with the key on the crank it was easier. Oh, and I did this in the middle of my driveway in a couple of hours. My driveway is one of them pain in the a$$ types that is really sloped and drags everything coming up it, even my van.

    Great write up guys.
  12. RoidsFordEscortGT

    RoidsFordEscortGT FEOA Member

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    what if your timing belt is melting almost what could that have been?mine smoked and was melting today
  13. escortlover2009

    escortlover2009 New Member

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    is there any way of doing the timing belt without removing the accesories auto tensioner..the bolt on it is rounded off and i have no idea how to move it...it wont budge
  14. Trencher

    Trencher FEOA Member

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    Pick up a cheap dremel type tool at harbor freight around 20$ if that, and flaten the sides back up and use a fresh pair of vise-grips. Once you have it removed just replace the bolt with a fresh one or good junk yard one. Ah nutz I'm gonna have to change my signature, I drive one now. :lol:
  15. escortlover2009

    escortlover2009 New Member

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    i can use a dreamel i live in an apartment complex..so i have no way of connecting anything to an outlet
  16. Trencher

    Trencher FEOA Member

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    If you follow that link I sent you there is a dremel that is 12 volt for cheap.
  17. escortlover2009

    escortlover2009 New Member

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    but its way to suck to just use a vise grip on it
  18. Trencher

    Trencher FEOA Member

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    With a good pair of vise-grips and a strong solid grip ain't no bolt beyond the power of the almighty vise-grips.
  19. substanger

    substanger New Member

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    Boy, nice try on the DIY, but dude, take a photography class or something! LOL!!
  20. ragajungle

    ragajungle New Member

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    2.0L SPI Keeps Jumping Timing!

    Thanks for the awesome write up! Here is a puzzler:

    Well I put a new (remanned) motor & belt in 2 weeks ago. I followed the Chiltons (very vague) instructions and a day later the belt jumped 2 teeth (off 19 deg at idlle....


    Inspected crank and cam for damaged or missing teeth - none seen

    Put another belt on and a different tensioner, followed the instructions again
    -after installed:
    -rotate motor 2 complete revolutions @ strokes each
    -clock wise only
    -22 ft lbs on tensioner
    -89 ft lbs on crank damper bolt


    The damn thing jumped again! I am ripping out my hair.
    has anyone ever ran into this?
    97 Merc 2.0L SPI
    Thanks,
    Mike

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