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How-To replace a Speedometer And Cable

30K views 27 replies 16 participants last post by  Joey_Twowagons 
#1 ·
Ok before we get started I am gonna try and see if I can remember what tools I used and you should gather a similar arrangement.

For those that really need any explanation, I am going to show you how to replace a speedometer cable and a speedometer gauge, this information will also be able to tell you how to remove other gauges if needed.

If your wondering why you need to do this, maybe your speedometer is bouncing all over the place, this is caused by a rotating magnet rubbing against a cup that has gotten out of balance within the speedometer. When this happens you will hear a grinding noise coming from the dash, usually at speeds above 35 mph.

Other causes for a funky speedometer could be a speedometer cable failure, this happens when the ends either get rounded off or just plain wore out. A speedometer and just quit working if this happens.

Vehicle speed sensors do fail. This is the sensor mounted in the transmission, usually the gear inside the transmission will shear off or gets broken when you try and remove it. Usually you only need to remove these to fill the transmission with fluid in manual transmissions only, seeing as how ford decided these transmission didn't really need a way to put fluid in the transmission. This how to does not show how to remove and replace this sensor.

1 average size Phillips head screwdriver
1 average size flat head screwdriver
1 7mm socket
1 ratchet to fit said socket 1/4 inch most likey
1 set of various extensions for said ratchet
1 t-15 Torx socket or screwdriver (socket is better)
1 12mm socket, regular or deep it does not matter
1 3/8 size ratchet for said socket
1 medium size extension for said ratchet
1 average size pair of pliers
1 3/16 socket or screwdriver
1 marker
1 door trim removal tool, or a fork, no, your not gonna eat your speedo....
1 1/8 inch socket or screwdriver

Disclaimer: I can not and will not be held responsible for any damage you do to your car. This is mearly a guide to help people who generally know what the difference between a wrench and a ratchet are. If you are unsure, don't attempt this. Good luck

Ok, so the first thing we need to, and this is not required, but by doing this, it makes pulling the cluster out a ton easier.

You need to jack up the car, and put it on stands. Crawl underneath the car and locate the speed sensor and cable. Now to me, it is a hell of a lot easier to get to that sensor and cable from the bottom then from above. The pin holding the cable in, as seen in pic 1, will need to be pried out with the flat head screwdriver. It will be tough, it may break, not to worry its not a huge deal. The pin looks like the one in pic 3. Once you get it out and again don't worry if you break it. Pull the cable out of the socket slightly sight is loose from the sensor and that's it for being under the car for now...

Pic 1


Pic 2


Pic 3


Now we can proceed to th interior of the car. Locate the steering column, it's the long thing that has your steering wheel and turn signal switch attached to. It has a black plastic housing around it, this needs to be removed. Look under the column and remove the 4 Phillips head screws located in pic 4. Once those are out use your flat head screwdriver to pry on the left side of the plastic, separating the top from the bottom.

Be gentle, As you can see in pic 6, the focus On my camera doesn't like being close to items, but more importanted there is an electrical cord that needs to be twisted out and separated from the plastic. This should release he bottom plastic cover. Onward...

Pic 4


Now, with the plastic cover removed you will have access to the four 12mm bolts that hold the column to the dashboard. The bolts are gold in color and you can't miss them in pic 5. Use your ratchet and what ever extension you feel comfortable with to remove these four bolts.

Once the last bolt is remove the column will drop a few inches, not to worry, this is normal for most males after removal.

Pic 5


Pic 6


In pic 7 you can either use your t15 Torx, or a 7mm socket to remove the 2 screws on the left side of the column, the 3 screws in pic 8 and the 3 screws in pic 9. In my opinion a socket and ratchet work nice for the ones in pic 9.

Pic 7


Pic 8


Pic 9


You will need to pull the black plastic bezel covering your gauges forward, but not too much, youll see some wiring you need to take care of.

In pic 10 you will need disconnect the cable for the mirror and in pic 11 you will need to disconnect the cable for the rear defrost.

Once those are disconnected, you should be able ro remove the black plastic instrument bezel and set it off to the side.

Pic 10


Pic 11


Once that is out of the way, you will have access to another four screws that are black in color, you can either use your Torx or 7mm socket to remove them. Pic 14 gives you the best view.

Pic 12


Pic 13


Pic 14


Now this is the part where pull the other end of the speedometer cable comes in handy. You will need to grasp the cluster and firmly pull it toward you, the speedo cable, since it is disconnected, will come with the cluster, along with 3 electrical cables.

Dont pull too hard or you will break the plastic clip that holds the speedometer cable to the speedometer. Just pull it far enough for you to get your hands in behind the cluster.

If you don't pull the sensor end of the speedometer cable, pull the cluster forward will prove difficult, mainly because you don't have enough slack in th cable to get your hand in their to disconnect it.

Pic 15


Here in pic 16 you will see the 3 electrical connections that will need to be disconnected first. The you can disconnect th speedometer cable. The speedometer cable is disconnected by pressing on the white plastic collar, once it is disconnected, inspect it.

From this point you can replace the cable, it comes out from the engine bay, just use your flat head screwdriver to pry that puppy out of there. Installation is the reverse, you will notice that the new one will just snap into place on the firewall, you will just need to fish the rest of it where ever it needs to go.

Pic 16


Pic 17


Now once the cluster is removed, use kid gloves, this stuff can be easily damaged.

Remove the 6 gold colored screws shown in pic 18 with your t15 Torx screwdriver or socket. You do not need to remove the 3 screws on the front part of the top of the cluster. These just hold th clear plastic to the black housing.

Pic 18


Here in pic 19 the two at separated, again be gentle. Begin removing th gauges one at a time starting with the one on the far left as in pic 20.

It is good to note that all the gauges are the same between all years and all configurations. Which was a surprise to me, but all speedometers work in all configurations, tach or no tach, same goes for the fuel gauge and the water temp. Just double check the ford part numbers stamped on th gauges themselves to be sure.

Pic 19


Pic 20


Pic 21


Pic 22


Pic 23
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y227/nowak161/Speedometer%20How%20To/100_0065.jpg[/

Once the tach is removed the speedometer gauge should pretty much just fall out, just like Dr. Phil's hair.

Pic 24
[img]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y227/nowak161/Speedometer%20How%20To/100_0066.jpg

Now you can just replace the old speedometer with your new one and be done with it, but your Mileage will not be the same, unless your That lucky. Do the right thing and put the correct mileage on your car. I will show you how, it's not that hard, just be slow and patient.

Take your marker out and with one hand, hold the needle at zero, but you must be gentle here, try not to hold these things with much force. Place two marks on the housing and on the cup to use as reference points for when you reinstall the needle. Next, Use your door trim removal tool or your fork, yes I said fork....and here you thought I was joking.....soo,...use this "fork" and gently pry off the speedometer needle.

This may take a little bit of force, it's on there pretty good, just be gentle and patient and it will eventually come off.

Here in pic 25 you will use your 3/16 socket or screw driver to remove the 3 screws holding the gauge face to the speedometer assembly.

Pic 25


Now here pictured poorly in pic 26, you will see a white clip if sorts, this can be popped out with your flat head screwdriver. Once this is removed, the odometer should be loose but not yet ready to come out.

Pic 26


Pic 27


Pic 28


Here in pic 29 you will want to use your 1/8 inch socket or screwdriver to LOOSEN, DO NOT REMOVE, unless you really, really need to. Learn from my mistakes. Removeing these screws aren't such a big deal, it's the cup, it is very sensitive and gets out of whack when it gets played with like that. My dumb ass took it apart and then set it down. This caused the cup to get out of balance a little. The cup is not solid on the rod and does move around. This is why I would rather have you not pull it apart unless you have to. Pic 30 will give you a better idea of what I'm talking about.

Basically you just need to loosen the screws enough so that you can squeeze the odometer out of its socket.
Pic 29


Pic 30


Pic 31


Pic 32


If you look closely here at pic 33, you will notice some little stubbies on the odometer. These are your mounting tabs and are to be used as reference when placing your new odometer in the speedometer assembly. The bottom tabs will sit flush against the metal housing if the speedometer. Once this is achieved, you can pop the white plastic clip back into place and the tighten the screws. Ensuring that the white corkscrews running to the odometer and trip odometer havent fallen out of its mounting holes.

Now it's just a matter of reverse the directions and putting it all back together. Just follow the reverse of all the directions I gave you, and you should be right back where you started, except that now your speedometer works, and you can go pay that speeding ticket that got you here in the first place...

Pic 33


Pic 34


Pic 35


Pic 36


This concludes the step by step how to remove and replace a speedometer and cable. I hope you enjoyed this episode by Anomalous, I am not apologizing to anyone I have offended, but I am am sorry for my piss poor sense of humor. Stay tuned for more,.....maybe...

Please let me know how I did, if any changes or corrections need to be made. All critcisizisms welcome.
 
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#2 ·
In before descriptions...


Good pics - I had no idea the speedometer/odometer came apart like that. Is this going to cover "repairing a bouncy speedometer"? My 1991 has a slight bounce but the 1996 is horrible. I've got a spare one that I can practice tearing apart.
 
#4 ·
I've been fighting a bouncy speedo on my 96 as well, I replaced the cable and as you can see the gauge as well, but I think I bent something cause the speedo is making noise like the old one did, that tells me the magnet is rubbing and thus creating the bouncy speedo. I highly recommend that you don't pull the speedo apart any farther then you need to,, I will explain in the how to. Good thing I got extra speedos lying around
 
#5 ·
I might just do this and experiment with installing a cluster with a tach. Its always nice to see how hard your car is working. But right now I cant
 
#7 ·
Upgrading from no tach to tach requires rewiring, not only for the tach but for the trouble lights along the bottom. They vary from car to car, also, I believe th circuitry ribbon on the back of the cluster is different as well. Not sure, I just remember reading it a while back.


I have a how to install an aftermarket tach on my hard drive at home, it's a he'll of a lot easier then rewiring the cluster.
 
#8 ·
So, if you damage that clip at the beginning...?

I'm replacing the heater core: step 1, remove the speedometer cable--I went at it from above & bent the clip to uselessness. Not a good omen....

Anyway, since I've got everything hanging out, is there any preventative I should do, besides lube the cable? Both of my previous Escorts developed the bouncy needle, so I expect this one will too someday.
 
#9 ·
the clip isnt a big deal, all it does and hold the speedo cable in the sensor housing. you can use an old coat hanger or some small wire to replace it, they almost always break and are a pita to put back in.

Depending on if your car is auto or manual, i would consider trying to remove the speedo sensor and check the level of tranny fluid. manual transmissions dont have a dipstick and this is the only location to add fluid. it should fill to the top of the gear on the sensor. if you do remove the sensor, be gentle, they can be fragile and can break. pull straight up and wiggle a little, do not twist, it only goes in one way.
 
#10 ·
the clip isnt a big deal, all it does and hold the speedo cable in the sensor housing. you can use an old coat hanger or some small wire to replace it, they almost always break and are a pita to put back in.

Depending on if your car is auto or manual, i would consider trying to remove the speedo sensor and check the level of tranny fluid. manual transmissions dont have a dipstick and this is the only location to add fluid. it should fill to the top of the gear on the sensor. if you do remove the sensor, be gentle, they can be fragile and can break. pull straight up and wiggle a little, do not twist, it only goes in one way.
What type of fluid would I need to put in the manual transmission?
 
#11 ·
Dextron III Mercon, Standard Automatic Transmission fluid for Manual Transmission
 
#12 ·
Affirming this; it catches a lot of folks by surprise, but it is correct; AUTOMATIC TRANS FLUID into our Manual Transmissions.

To emphasize this, I have two owners manuals which state MERCON or DEXRON IIE. And I THINK the DEXRON III that Anomalous refers to replaces the DEXRON IIE

I have a 1996 owner's manual somewhere, but can't get my hands on it right now, but betting it says the same thing.

LarryR
 
#13 ·
Nice how-to.

It's actually not necessary to remove the clip from the speed sensor, you can just pull the cable right out without removing the clip at all. Just yank it straight up and it will come out, then just press it back in when reassembling.
 
#14 ·
I'm adding some pictures to better explain how to operate the clip that locks the speedometer cable to the back of the instrument cluster. The actual locking mechanism is hidden from view so it's not necessarily obvious from looking at the clip how to work it. It's simple once you understand it though, just push on one side of the clip( the side with some ridges near the back) and then pull the cable out. Before learning how it worked I tried twisting , squeezing , and sliding it, none of which worked.



 
#15 ·
Thanks; this answers the $64,000 question. I learned NOT to try to force it; RUINED one as I was trying to save parts from my "crashed/totaled" original 1993 SW, and recently "gave up" on my "new" 1993 SW as I was changing burned out #194 bulbs............ I think Ford Manual says SQUEEZE, but not in the detail you give.

So last detail, do you have to grit your teeth and squeeze like crazy? or is it somewhat gentle squeeze? That orange barrel you call it, is it soft and cushiony to allow that engaging pin to come out of it's engaging circle/indent? Must be, huh?

Thanks again, now the NEXT time I hafta get in there [gloom] I won't end up ruining the HAIRPIN down by the tranny on the VSS, and oh, I see that THAT is addressed too, although I like denisond3's method [wriggling and pulling w/o removal of pin] which I see is also addressed further above.

Yip, I'm gonna copy this site.

LarryR
 
#16 ·
No, you don't have to push too hard on the clip. The orange barrel piece is not cushiony, it's rigid, but there is am unseen hole drilled in the side of the barrel piece and that is what the plastic locking piece is passing through that allows it to contact and lock onto the instrument cluster. I too was working on the cluster bulbs, I ordered some online and when I go to install them, I will try to take a better picture.
 
#18 ·
This was excellent information, thanks for this. I was able to improve on this a bit.

It is a looong stretch under there to reach the speedometer cable. So what I did was to saw out a plastic support, which allowed me to get my arm back there. As you can see, there's nothing behind there to hurt, and only you will know it's there.

So to summarize:

1. Take out the rubber strip under the steering column.
2. Take out the 4 bolts holding the steering column in place.
3. Take out the front panel.
4. Saw/cut supports.
5. Unbolt the speedometer.
6. Unplug everything, and remove the cable.
White Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire
 
#19 ·
Vehicle Motor vehicle Car Automotive exterior Gas
 
#20 ·
Id like to point out that this is why you remove the speedo cable from the transmission. With this done, you can actually pull the entire cluster out another 6 inches or so. If already have the wiring disconnected, you can keep pulling until the cable end reaches the firewall (unnecessary, 6" should be more then enough.)

Good luck, Im glad people are still using this after so many years!
 
#25 ·
......Good luck, Im glad people are still using this after so many years!
I have a '94 manual I use on my '95 Wagon. I couldn't find any reference to disconnection the speedometer cable from the back of the inst. cluster. So, I searched and found exactly what I needed here.
Thanks and be aware, people do still use your and other explanations.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Yeah, but what's easier? Fight with the cable and reassemble, or cut that piece out? I plan to use that space to put my remote start/power lock module in dash.

I don't want to take away from this though. This is why I attempted the project, because all of this information was out there. Thanks for that!!

Edit: Nevermind, I finally found that damn clip!!
 
#23 ·
Take the numbers out as shown, then take a screwdriver and spread black gear next to the tenth's digit about 1/8 inch or so (don't take it off). This will allow you to spread the numbers apart to disengage the gears, so you can spin the numbers. When you numbers are lined up then press the numbers together (not too tight).
 
#26 · (Edited)
........
Please let me know how I did, if any changes or corrections need to be made. All critcisizisms welcome.
Excellent write-up with current application for my '95 Wagon.

The dash cluster bezel was so brittle when I tried to move the bezel before removing the three upper screws, the plastic broke at all three points. I knew the screws were there, and never should have moved the bezel at all before taking them out. I will repair the mounting holes with some "plastic weld" material. I think it will keep the rattles down in the future.

My '95 Wagon failed VA safety test because the air-bag dash bulb would not come on ...at all.

Testing the air-bag system indicated the dash-board light bulb was no working. I had to remove the cluster, but couldn't figure out of to disconnect the speed-o cable from the back. Finally got it off after reviewing a few posts on the site. Turns out the #194 bulb was not connecting well in the little socket. I cleaned it up, and will retest with the dash re-connected.

As usual, this was a life saver $$$$$$!
 
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