How to remove the crank pulley center bolt? | Page 2 | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
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How to remove the crank pulley center bolt?

Discussion in 'ZX2 1998-2004 2.0L DOHC' started by ZathrasOne, Oct 8, 2007.

  1. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    That happened to me more than once. Each time I would put the belt on, turning the engine a couple of times revealed I was off one tooth. So I would do it again.
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  2. Joshua Schwenker

    Joshua Schwenker FEOA Member

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    Okay so I just opened the damn thing back up and it looks like everything is exactly the way it should be is it possible that maybe my crankshaft sensor is bad?
    I have a multimeter I'm just not sure how I would check for like continuity or what not voltage to it to see if it's working right.
  3. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    The crankshaft sensor being bad would be a fairly rare failure. In 12 years of owning 7 Escorts, I havent had one go bad. Its a pretty simple sensor - just a tiny magnet with a tiny coil around it. The computer senses the 'waveform' it gets from the sensor.
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  4. Joshua Schwenker

    Joshua Schwenker FEOA Member

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    Yeah, I understand how that works. Do, the bolt for the idle pulley just sheared off...same exact failure as last time.
    Question, am I supposed to have a second pulley down by the crankshaft, just north east of the gear? There is a spot for one however it wasnt installed originally. Is there a known revision?
    2002 zx2. The ccm is dated 2001, if this helps with anything.
  5. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    I have only had a crankshaft position sensor go bad on a 2000 Dodge truck. The only way I knew that it was the problem was because it would not start and I had a code for it. The sensor ohmed out fine.
  6. Joshua Schwenker

    Joshua Schwenker FEOA Member

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    Yeah see my sensor ohmed out just fine as well so I'm not really sure what's going on with it but I did have a pulley break yesterday, I'm in an email war with the people who sent me the kit the kit they sent the upper idle pulley did not have a bolt included with it. So I had to pull one from the junkyard.
    So question, does your zetech engine have a pulley next to the crankshaft and one up by the cams?
  7. 4cylinder

    4cylinder FEOA Member

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    no, you are not supposed to have the lower pulley installed. I tell people this all the time yet they still install it on cars which are not supposed to have it. It is only installed onto the 98 and some 99
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  8. 4cylinder

    4cylinder FEOA Member

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    this is not true on the zx2, it does not become one tooth off by turning the engine if it were set correctly. On the zx2 people mistake this because the vct gear is controlled by oil pressure and there is insufficient oil pressure in the vct gear if you only turn it by hand.
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  9. Joshua Schwenker

    Joshua Schwenker FEOA Member

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    Ty, that clears one ?. Now, I wonder why that bolt keeps shearing off? The new pulley they sent me in the TB kit does not include the bolt so I'm not sure exactly what I should do. I already pulled one from the yard"
  10. 4cylinder

    4cylinder FEOA Member

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    you have the wrong kit
  11. Joshua Schwenker

    Joshua Schwenker FEOA Member

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    Yeah, I am in the process of returning it. Unfortunately the car is broken down in the dollar general parking lot.
    And now that I know what to look for there are kits out there that are cheaper and actually have the correct part. I've already installed the tensioner, the water pump, and have the belt over the cams and crank. It's been run for more than 10 minutes with said parts.
  12. RonW

    RonW FEOA Member

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    The timing belt on these cars are actually pretty simple. I've done enough to know, but I have had my share of what I'm going to call minor missteps.

    Make sure the keyway is at 12 o'clock relative to the engine, not the body of the car. Make sure the cam gear bolts are loose enough, this is important because I've had them tighten themselves up when rotating the camshafts. I suggest rotating the exhaust cam both ways as this assures the VCT is not holding the camshaft in one locked position, rotate the cams to fit into the bar/tool on the rear of the cams. Check the crank and make sure keyway hasn't moved, if it has, first check again that cam gear bolts are loose, then move crank back to 12 o'clock. Now adjust and tighten the timing belt adjuster. A little tip, I leave the "ear" of the adjuster out of it's hole to allow easier installation of the belt, then I move it into the slot and adjust it to proper setting and tighten. Once the belt is set I begin to tighten the intake gear bolt, holding the camshaft with wrench and the rear bar still in to 25 ft lbs, then do the same on exhaust gear bolt on exhaust cam to 25 ft lbs. I then triple check the crank keyway. If all is as it should be then remove the camshaft tool, depending on oil in the VCT the exhaust cam may move a little after removing the tool, this is okay so don't change anything. Continue to tighten the intake cam gear bolt to 50 ft lbs, then the exhaust cam gear bolt to 88 ft lbs. Finally the exhaust cam gear oil cap to 27 ft lbs.

    That's it, the timing is now done. With that exact procedure I've never had any issues with timing on these cars.

    In emergency situations I have used the "starter" method to unlock a crankshaft bolt, didn't have a problem but it's a last resort method for me. It does work. I've made the mistake of putting the keyway at 12 o'clock relative to me and the floor, but the engine is slightly tipped forward, so 12 o'clock relative to the engine is important. I've also used the screwdriver in the cylinder one method and never had a problem, when you don't have the means to get the crank bolt out.

    Good luck with it all. I'm sure you will get it done. Be well

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