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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in the middle of changing the timing belt in my 1998 ZX2, but am having difficulty removing the crank pulley center bolt. Since it is an automatic, I can't just put it into high gear to lock the engine. Also, is that bolt a left or right hand thread (reverse or normal)?
 

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Im not sure about this, so I would not try this until someone backs this up but I believe you can put a breaker bar on there lock it up agenst either the ground or part of the frame and crank the motor.
 

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Yes thats a method people use to put underdrive pullies on. Just make sure the motor doesn't start, just do quick short turns of the key.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I bought a cheap, 12V, Impact driver. It worked! And the bolt IS a standard thread. I am used to the older cars which frequently had reverse threads.
 

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Cool, now I know my cordless impact will work. I need to swap pullies now!:)
 
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Really? I've worked on a lot of cars since about 1969 or so when I was a teenager. Over the last almost 40 years, I've never had one with reverse threads, although most cars I've worked on were Fords. What cars did you come across this on? Just curious in case I work on one of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I own a 1968 Plymouth Barracuda with a 318. I am certain that was reverse threaded. I had another guy that works on Mustangs, and he said the same thing about them.
 

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Good Advice!
Before removal I like to mark the positions of the bolt and the crank-pulley, with white paint or shiny lines made with a dremel moto tool or a scratch awl. That way I can line up the lines as I am using my impact wrench to get the bolt retorqued. I use the impact wrench for short bursts or at low air pressure.
Some cars in yester-years needed to have some sealant put onto the threads. Luckily my Escorts dont. They DO need the sealant on the threads of the bolt holding the camshaft sprocket on the camshaft - since the interior of the camshaft on the LX escorts has motor oil in it during operation.
 

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I purchased a kit online with the belt, 3 pulleys (inc. tensioner), water pump w/"O" ring, and a new seal for each cam. I also got the ford tdc cam kit with the bar and the 2 plugs.
This is my first TB change, I will admit, it's a bear. Plodding through it, though with good fortune I may get it done today.
 

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I purchased a kit online with the belt, 3 pulleys (inc. tensioner), water pump w/"O" ring, and a new seal for each cam. I also got the ford tdc cam kit with the bar and the 2 plugs.
This is my first TB change, I will admit, it's a bear. Plodding through it, though with good fortune I may get it done today.
 

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So yours is a DOHC engine? All of mine are the LX SOHC engines. Simpler to work on.
Even though it is a sunny mild day with a light breeze, I am now indoors at the stage of resting my back. Im not thin, not young, and find I can injure my back in an hour or less of leaning under the hood. (Didnt happen much 50-60 years ago).
 

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breaker bar method works quite well actually. especially in a flat-rate scenario where time is valuable. just make sure it is well managed and i often ratchet strap the bar to the vehicle somehow.
 

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I hit
breaker bar method works quite well actually. especially in a flat-rate scenario where time is valuable. just make sure it is well managed and i often ratchet strap the bar to the vehicle somehow.
I hit that bastard with 3 -4 round of blaster with good soaks. I took a video, if you would like a copy, just pm me.
 

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soaking the crank bolt with penetrating oil probably wont help, if at all. the flange of the bolt rests snugly against the balancer, and the threads go in about 2 inches. there's no way to get oil back inside the shank. good thing it came loose, these usually require brute force.
 
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