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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Symptoms of Carbon Deposits are a knocking audible only when engine is under heavy load that doesnt go away when running Mid-grade (89 Octane) fuel.

First, get a few cans of Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner from any Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth, Jeep , or Mitsubishi Dealer. This stuff works better than anything else I've ever used. It was like $12.00 a can last time i used some. Pull out your plugs and fill each combustion chamber until it either runs out the plug hole or out a valve. Let it sit overnight. Turn over the motor a few times with the plugs out to clear out the cleaner. Change your oil. Put in the old plugs. pull off a small vacuum line and start the engine. Have someone rev it up to about 2500 rpm. Slowly introduce half a can into the open vacuum line so it can mist in the intake manifold and clean the manifold and the intake valves. Should take 20 minutes or so. Shut down the car. Take a can of carburetur cleaner and an old toothbrush and clean the throttle plate. It says there is a coating on the throttle and to not clean the plate, but this is untrue. Just make sure none gets into the IAC Valve on top of the throttle. Start the engine and pop the throttle a few times to clear out the carburetur cleaner. Replace the plugs, as they are usually carbon fouled by this point. Run a high detergent gasoline or an additive to clean the injectors for a few tankfuls. Premium is best. You shouldn't have a knock problem for another 30,000 - 50,000 miles
 

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i have to say that i dont recomend this. although it may work. it has to be a messy job not to mention all the crap you will introduce into the exhaust system.. i recomend finding a shop that uses BG intake cleaners, like i do at my shop. i have a canister that i put in 2 cans of bg intake cleaner and carbon cleaner. (cant remember the exact name.) and a seperat can in the tank. i hook it up to an air suply line, then i hook the nozle up inside the intake. i then crank the car, then i let it warm up. after the car is warm, i let the bg do the cleaning. its good stuff, and works great. check them out at: http://www.bgprod.com/home.html
 

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I just had my injectors flushed.... just make sure that your return fuel line gets hooked back up! LOL! If not, you get some new parts for free! but it's a hassle not having the car for a few days, and not being 25 so not having a loaner car.
 

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Free's up all the carbon to allow it to float around where I don't need it. Running a bottle of injector/valve cleaner every few months really does wonders for keeping things clean.

If you have that much sludge in your engine that you need that stuff, you have other issues. When I pulled my oil pan off 157 000mi other than a light coating of varnish it was still looking brand new, like it should.

Just my opinion :wink:

Matt 8)
 

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chadgore said:
i have to say that i dont recomend this. although it may work. it has to be a messy job not to mention all the crap you will introduce into the exhaust system.. i recomend finding a shop that uses BG intake cleaners, like i do at my shop. i have a canister that i put in 2 cans of bg intake cleaner and carbon cleaner. (cant remember the exact name.) and a seperat can in the tank. i hook it up to an air suply line, then i hook the nozle up inside the intake. i then crank the car, then i let it warm up. after the car is warm, i let the bg do the cleaning. its good stuff, and works great. check them out at: http://www.bgprod.com/home.html
There's a whole legion of DSMer's who disagree. It does the SAME thing as this BG stuff.

Know what else cleans it well? Water injection.

What else? Pour a quart of ATF in your engine before your next oil change and let it idle for about 10-15 min then change your oil. The detergents in the ATF clean great.

MCCC does what it's supposed to do and does it well. Don't like MCCC?

Try Seafoam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks! Being an old DSM'er myself (1994 GSX, May you rest in pieces) This is how I learned of this method. It hasnt failed me in 5 years since i learned of it.

Side Note, Initial, was your DSM Always breaking down?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
GTScort, the bad thing about the link you posted is usually after a long time, engine seals actually incorporate the carbon and sludge present in the crankcase into itself, so when you go to flush out an older engine, it usually causes more problems than it solves. Combustion chamber deposits and intake deposits are on an entirely different surface of the engine. Removing carbon deposits in these areas have no effect on the crankcase sludge. The piston rings keep almost all of the cleaner out of the oil. Granted, some gets by, but not enough to clean, and it actually breaks down the oil, so that is why you change the oil after you do this, since i would imagine running an engine on oil that is breaking down is not the best thing for it.
 

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I know of a cheaper way that has been used for years and years, and if done correctly, has no ill-effect on your engine, oil, or cats.

plain old H2O

Start your engine and let it get to opperating temp. Shut it off and remove what ever hoses/pipes you need to get to the throttle body.

Start the car back up, hold the trottle open just a little higher than idle (may need two people to do this) and SLOWLY pour water in the TB. The engine will start to chugalug a little bit, so open the throttle a little bit more, or slow down the ammount of water you're pouring in.

Basicly what this does is it steam-cleans your piston tops, valves, spark plugs, and combustion chambers. It make take several times to get all of the carbon out, but its cheap and it works.

Also, don't do this on concrete as the carbon comming out of the exhaust will leave a black spot on the ground.

I've done this with numerous engines and never had a problem.

-Harry
 

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No sir. Age old remedy for carbon.

Like I said, you don't flood the engine with water. Just slowly pour it in. The engine is hot enough that the water vaporizes before it has a chance to pool up.

folks have been doing it since the 20's at least.

-Harry
 

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don't have any at the moment, but I can get you some next time I have to do it.

I know it works because the car would ping before i did it. After I did it I had a nice black spot on the driveway under the exhaust and the pinging was gone.

Carbon hates moisture. Nothing is more moist than water, so if done properly, its the perfect cleaner. If you've ever pulled the head(s) off of a well used engine, you'll know what i'm talking about. The piston tops will have a layer of carbon on them. if they're exposed to moisture long enough, some of the carbon actualy bubbles or flakes up and just peels off.

that being said, don't just dump water in your cylinders and let it sit to get the carbon out. thats just stupid.

-Harry
 
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