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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I pulled this off of fordfuelinjection.com. I have seen a lot of people asking how to do this, so, here it is.


Don't worry if the Check Engine Light is not on, the computer will store lesser important codes without flashing lights in your face. First you need to find the self-test plugs to read codes from the EEC. There are 2 plugs to find. One is triangular and has 6 pins; it is called the Self-Test plug. The other is a smaller single pin plug; it is called the Self-Test Input (STI). These are what the plugs look like. The self-test plugs are located along the passenger side fender by the firewall/strut tower on 1986-90 Escorts. I am not sure if it is in the same location for pre-86 Escorts, but I should think it would be the same.

How to Prepare for the Self-Test

To check for codes without buying a code reader is simple. If your EEC is wired correctly, the engine light works, and there are not any electrical faults in the vehicle you can get the codes out of your EEC.



1. Turn key to OFF.
2. Get a length of wire that can connect the STI to the negative battery terminal or body ground.
3. Ground the Self-Test Input.
4. Get some paper and a pen.
5. Get comfortable in the drivers seat.
6. Try to keep your self from getting distracted from here on.
7. Turn key to RUN.
8. You will hear some relays engage and the fuel pumps prime the system. This is the EEC beginning the test.
9. When the fuel pumps stop be ready to count!

If you are a lost soul that does not have a working engine light, or did not install a light into your dash don't fret. You can still get the codes. You still need that wire to ground out the STI. Now you will need one of the following tools; digital volt meter, analog volt meter, test light, or you can hook up any other 12 volt light that does not draw more than 0.5 watts max.



1. Turn key to OFF.
2. Get a length of wire that can connect the STI to the negative battery terminal or body ground.
3. Ground the Self-Test Input.
4. Attach one side of the test device to the Self-Test Output (STO).
5. Attach the other lead to the positive side of the battery.
a) If you are using a digital voltmeter you'll want to use the continuity setting.
b) If you are using an analog voltmeter you'll be counting the meter make sweeps.
c) If you are using a cheep light you'll count like the rest of us.
6. Get some paper and a pen.
7. Get comfortable in the drivers seat.
8. Try to keep your self from getting distracted from here on.
9. Turn key to RUN.
10. You will hear some relays engage and the fuel pumps prime the system. This is the EEC beginning the test.
11. When the fuel pumps stop be ready to count!

How To Count "Check Engine" Light Blinks

When the "Check Engine" light blinks during the test you will get several different blinks, the separation time between blinks is used to indicate what information is being displayed.

Turn key to RUN.
You will hear some relays engage and the fuel pumps prime the system. This is the EEC beginning the test.
The fuel pumps will stop and the EEC will now begin giving codes.
You may catch a brief flickering of the light. This is a rapid code read that is used by the code readers you can purchase. Do not worry all those rapid flashes you just say flicker buy will now be given at a slower pace of 1, 2, & 4 second pauses.
First digit of first KOEO code (1/2 second between blinks)
2 second pause
Second digit of first KOEO code (1/2 second between blinks)
4 second pause
Next KOEO code
Once all KOEO codes are read the EEC will repeat them
6 second pause
Single Separator Blink (this indicates the change from KOEO codes to CM codes)
6 second pause
Codes from Continues Memory (uses same 1/2, 2, and 4 second timing as KOEO codes and also repeats them)
If nothing has been recorded by the EEC since last battery disconnect you will see:

Blink - 2 sec - blink - 4 sec - blink - 2 sec - blink - 6 sec - blink - 6 sec - blink - 2 sec - blink - 4 sec - blink - 2 sec - blink

This translates into 11-11 current condition (KOEO) and 11-11 in the continues memory (CM); or SYSTEMPASS

This may seem hard to count; recommendation is to record codes with slashes, and to lump them all together. Sort them out into numerical codes later. Here is an example of this:



This would give you codes; 41, 83, 14 & 18. If you miss some of the codes or feel you are counting wrong continue to count the remaining codes for practice and to compare to the next code test. When finished simply turn the key to OFF wait 15 seconds then back to RUN. The codes will be presented again.
 

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Should it be stressed that the located of the plugs for our Escorts are on the right inner fender? Not the left like a Mustang.

(FIXT! good catch, thanks)

Now, all is needed is the list of what the codes are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here is a list of codes

CODE 11 System ``pass''
CODE 12 RPM out of spec (extended idle)
CODE 13 RPM out of spec (normal idle)
CODE 14 PIP was erratic (continuous test)
CODE 15 ROM test failed
CODE 16 **RPM too low (fuel lean test)
CODE 17 **RPM too low (upstream/lean test)
CODE 18 No tach
CODE 19 No power to processor or idle speed incorrect
CODE 21 ECT out of range
CODE 22 MAP out of range
CODE 23 TPS out of range
CODE 24 ACT out of range
CODE 25 Knock not sensed in test
CODE 26 MAF (VAF) out of range
CODE 28 Ambient temp. below 50~F (1.9L EFI & 2.3L Turbo only)
CODE 31 EVP out of limits
CODE 32 EGR not controlling
CODE 33 EVP not closing properly
CODE 34 No EGR flow
CODE 35 RPM too low (EGR test)
CODE 36 Fuel always lean (at idle)
CODE 37 Fuel always rich (at idle)
CODE 41 System always lean
CODE 42 System always rich
CODE 43 EGO cool down occurred
CODE 44 Air management system inoperative
CODE 45 Air always upstream
CODE 46 Air not always bypassed
CODE 47 ***Up air/lean test always rich
CODE 48 Injectors unbalanced
CODE 51 ECT input too high
CODE 52 Power steering pressure switch is open or steering wheel not turned during KOER self-test
CODE 53 TPS input too high
CODE 54 ACT (VAT) input too high
CODE 55 Electrical charging under voltage
CODE 56 MAF (VAF) input too high
CODE 58 Idle tracking switch input too high (engine running test)
CODE 59 Trans. hydraulic switch (THS 3/4) failed in open position (3.0L & 3.8L A/T only
CODE 61 ECT input too low
CODE 62 Trans. hydraulic switch (THS 3/4) failed
CODE 63 TPS input too low
CODE 64 ACT (VAT) input too low
CODE 65 Electrical charging over voltage
CODE 66 MAF (VAF) input too low
CODE 67 Neutral drive switch--drive or accelerator on (engine off)
CODE 68 ITS open or AC on (engine-off test)
CODE 69 Trans. hydraulic switch (THS 3/2) failed
CODE 72 No MAP change in ``goose test''
CODE 73 No TPS change in ``goose test''
CODE 74 Brake on/off switch always open or not activated during test
CODE 75 Brake on/off switch always closed or circuit shorted
CODE 76 No MAF (VAF) change in ``goose test''
CODE 77 Operator did not do ``goose test''
CODE 79 Neutral drive switch (NDS) or A/C input signal interrupted
CODE 81 Thermactor air bypass (TAB) circuit fault
CODE 82 Thermactor air diverter (TAD) circuit fault
CODE 83 EGR control (EGRC) circuit fault
CODE 84 EGR vent (EGRV) circuit fault
CODE 85 Canister purge (CANP) circuit fault
CODE 86 WOT A/C cut-off circuit fault (all 3.8L and 5.0L Continental)
CODE 87 Fuel pump circuit fault
CODE 88 Throttle kicker circuit fault (5.0L)
CODE 89 Check Continuity Of VPWR Circuit
CODE 91 Right EGO always lean
CODE 92 Right EGO always rich
CODE 93 Right EGO cool down occurred
CODE 94 Right secondary air inoperative
CODE 95 Right air always upstream
CODE 96 Right air always not bypassed
CODE 97 RPM drop (with fuel lean) but right EGO rich
CODE 98 RPM drop (with fuel rich) but right EGO lean
CODE 99 ECA has not stored enough information to control idle speed (CFI engines only
** - On 1986 and later vehicles, this code represents RPM too high/low or throttle pedal was depressed during KOER Self-Test
*** - Low flow of unmetered air on 1987-88 1.9L EFI engine
 

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marshpoprock said:
Should it be stressed that the located of the plugs for our Escorts are on the right inner fender? Not the left like a Mustang.

(FIXT! good catch, thanks)

Now, all is needed is the list of what the codes are.
1low, you using the those super moderatoring powers on me?

Are the code numbers the same between a cfi and mfi?
 

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Oh good, I'm glad this is stickied. There's also a post in the How-to section I made, and is linked in my signature :p...I beat you to it by a couple days, 1Low, but very good writeup. I should also go pull codes from my car after the timing belt throw...I bet I have a whole bunch of 'em.
 

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Some codes might be the same, but you might need to check in either of the second gen sections.

One of first gen moderators was nice enough to start this stickie for codes. I would vote him best first gen moderator myself, but that's just me.
 

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on a 93 escort lx. i tryed to hook up both ways no fuel pump clicking or no other clicking. no check engine light, and on test light light is on ,but when i turn key on light goes out no flashing, fuel relay problem and other wire issues, lost on what to do.
 

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7gizmo23 said:
NO , HOW WOULD I GO ABOUT THIS.
You already posted in other sections of the forum. If you can do that, you can definitely search up an answer on the 2nd gen forum.
 

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The colors are for demo purposes. The sti has only one wire. You need to use a jumper wire from the connector to the signal return (pin #2). Which in the picture is red.
 

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Thanks, I connected each wire separately to pin #2 and the check engine light did not flash with either one. The light is on when the car is running. Should I jumper both wires?
 

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sti location

i can't locate the sti to read my codes. I have read thru the procedure and found the triangular plug but can't find the single (sti) plug. I know its supposed to near this. Is it just dangling somewhere or is it plugged into something? I haven't been able to find a pic of it in its resting position. 1989 gt. thanks!
 

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Procedure for codes on Gen 1 vs Gen 2?

Here is what I found for Gen 1; need a more experienced person to respond for Gen 2, but I'll keep looking; this is for Gen 1, but I see in the thread they're objecting to providing guidance for "how to" on Gen 2....

Hopefully somebody here will respond; I'll keep looking, tho.

[edit; link didn't take;

http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... c&start=15 ]

[ edit two; forgive pls; this was posted here in error; it was supposed to go into Gen 2; ya'll may disregard]

Good luck,

LarryR
 

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This is a great section that anyone with a problem on their 1st gen should start with first. It probably would have saved me a couple hundred bucks if I had. Oh well live and learn, at least the parts were probably gonna go bad soon anyhow.
 
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