FEOA Forums banner
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

725 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Please save your self alot of time and know how to bleed breaks properly. As I qoute from the 1991 Escort Tracer Shop Manual

Hydraulic System Bleeding

General Information
When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for service, air may enter the system and cause spongy pedal action. Bleeding is a simple procedure used to remove air from the hydraulic circuits.

Dot 3 brake fluid must be used in the brake system.

Never use brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system or that has been standing in an open container for an extended period of time

Manual Bleeding (Diagonal System)

1. Clean all dirt from the break fluid reservoir cap.

2. Fill the reservoir to the max level with the specified break fluid. (Add-in: DOT 3 minimum)

CAUTION: The reservoir must be at least 3/4 full throughout the bleeding procedure. Refill the reservoir as necessary.

3. If the master Cylinder is known or suspected to contain air, it must be bled before the wheel cylinders or calipers.

To bleed the master cylinder, loosen one brake line fitting and have an assistant bush the brake pedal slowly through its full travel. While the assistant holds the brake pedal down, tighten the other break lines. Repeat this procedure for the other brake lines. Repeat the entire process several times to ensure all air has been removed from the master cylinder

NOTE: Air bleeding must be preformed from the bleeder screw farthest from the dissembled components to the bleeder screw nearest.

4. Remove the bleeder screw cap from the appropriate brake.

5. Position a wrench on the bleeder screw.

6. Attach a hose to the bleeder screw.
The hose must fit snugly around the bleeder screw.

7. Submerge the free end of the hose in a container partially filled with the specified break fluid.

8. Loosen the bleeder screw approximately 3/4 of a turn.

9. Have the assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel and hold.

10. Tighten the bleeder screw.

11. Have the assistant release the pedal.

12. Repeat Steps 8-11 until air bubbles do not appear at the submerged end of the bleeder hose.

13. When the fluid entering the bottle is completely free of bubbles, tighten the bleeder screw to 6-8 Nm (53-77 lb-in).

14. Remove the bleeder hose and install the bleeder screw cap.

15. Repeat these steps at the appropriate diagonal break.

16. Check the fluid level in the reservoir and fill with the specified brake fluid if necessary.

17. Check the pedal feel. If the pedal is spongy, repeat the bleeding process or refer to the Brake Diagnostic Charts in Section 06-00.
TAA DAA.... some one sticky this cause its important

1,620 Posts
Indeed it does..I had to bleed my clutch after the damn thing went dry, so I put some DOT3 fluid in and I had air in it..so I had to bleed it like a mofo..I'm never buying a car from my mom again.

230 Posts
I found the way to bleed clutch hydraulics successfully. It seems the fluid line from the master goes on a roller coaster ride up and down and when you slowly bleed the line, the air bubbles travel down hill and then go back up when you stop to tighten the line and go for another try. This could go on all day if done slowly. The trick is to blast them all out without giving them a chance to go back up to the high point. I got the slave cylinder bleeder loosened and put my finger over the end, then I have helper pump the pedal quickly about 8 - 10 times then stop where I tighten bleeder and check levels. Be sure to use some pans or something as it gets fluid all over but this way I got ALL the air out
1 - 4 of 4 Posts