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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I bought this escort like this so I dont know why it doesnt work. When I turn the switch on for any a/c to come on nothing happens, not hot or cold air, no air at all. I took out the blower motor and it works perfect. I looked my blower motor resistor and the bigger plug that goes into it, one of the wires is melted. Could that cause no air to blow? If that is not it what else could it be? The actual instrument panel? Maybe the resistor itself?
 

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deff the resistor...they are notorious for crapping out...i grabbed a better looking one from the scrap yard and it worked perfect...it would be a good idea to put in new connectors to replace those plastic connectors..i did and it works great now
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
cool sweet, looks like the resistors are discontinued at my work, I will look for one at a scrap yard then. I already got wire and female connectors to replace the plug, lets hope it works.

EDIT: I just got one off ebay, so we will see.
 

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There's a chance that just replacing the connector will take care of the problem. I've had to replace the connector on my dad's '94 three times, because it keeps on melting and shorting out. It has always fixed his problem. Just go to a JY and cut one off a junker (if you can find a good one) and spice it onto the existing wires.
 

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I had the same problem. No air flow on any setting. I dissected the rotary switch from the control panel and cleaned the contacts with an emery board and rubbing alcohol. The contacts get carbon deposits from transferring power through the circuit. It has been working perfectly for a year so far. Getting the switch housing out is a pain in the *expletive* but it solved my problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
true, I am going to put in the new resistor tomorrow I hope that is the problem since that is simple. We will see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Damn, well I changed the connector on the wire and the resistor and it still doesnt work.

Got a question, when I cut the wire down, the actual wire down the line had some dust stuff on it and was kind of sticky, does this mean I have to change the whole wire? The other wires didnt look too good either.
 

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You may be ok, depending on how much wire is left to work with. Usually a few inches back and you will see shiny copper again. It rarely goes all bad. So...if you have 4 inches to spare; cut it there and see what it looks like.

I am at work and can't get to the manual...you do have a manual, right? If not get one. There are handy schematics in the back that show you the path of every circuit in the car. I believe the wires go directly to the control panel. Here is a diagram I found online. It is from a 97-2000 but that is all I can find. I think the circuit is the same otherwise there would be a different schematic in the book.

http://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/t/G/78314566.gif

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I just cut the wire back and spliced a longer wire on it, bigger in size, but when I cut the wire back it wasnt black or anything but it was not shiny, it was real dull and had this sticky stuff on it kind of looked like dust.
 

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That is interesting. The only thing I can think of is perhaps it was an overheating problem and the wire has melted some insulation. It also could be someone repaired this in the past and used too much solder paste and it ran down into the wire.

Did the splice work? is the blower running on all speeds?

If you could post a picture of the dusty wire; that would help diagnosis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
No nothing happened. I know the blower works because I took it out and hooked it up to 12v, and I bought a new resistor. But still nothing happens when I turn on the a/c. It might have something to do with the control panel, all the switches on the panel are not aligned with what they are supposed to be, I dont know if that means anything but maybe shows it is junk. Not sure, I may get some pics in a day or so of the wire, I already spliced it so I will have to cut it again.
 

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Good luck...like I said in my first post. I never tried the resistor. My first investigation was the console switch. A right pain in the ass to get out, repair and re-install. But that was the solution to my problem.
 

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yes, but try rebuilding yours first, that way you can save a buck before tearing your hair out. The hardest part is getting it disconnected and out of the dash/console. After that you can disassemble the rotor switch and use emery cloth or fine sandpaper to clean the contacts. Mine has been working fine for over a year now.

Best o' luck
 

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I had the same problem. Something about a swtich. looked like a swith with a bunch of springs, and 1 resistor looking thing, sorry about my lack of knowlege. But I got it fixed, and now I have heat. No air, found out during that I need a nw compressor.
 
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