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How to fix ebrake

17K views 23 replies 13 participants last post by  Adamprince2 
#1 ·

Maybe your ebrake is stuck off, or stuck on, or just does'nt work worth a damn. If the ebrake has'nt been used regularly you can bet this is the problem.

This is the lever that the ebrake cable hooks on to, the joint is what allows the pads to spread apart when you pull on the cable, and it loves to rust up.


But dont worry, you dont have to run out and try to find a new one. It can be fixed. You just have to remove it, spay some WD-40 or what ever you have on it, and work it loose by clamping it on a vise and hitting it back and forth with a hammer till it works it self free. Then re-install every thing, dont forget to adjust the pads proper, and enjoy a ebrake that works.

*I also suggest loosening & lubing up this jont when you install new pads.
 
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#2 ·
i have a 3rd gen 1998 sohc...

is this only in one location or two/several?

i would like to disengage or fix it. i keep hearing vibration like two glasses vibrating against eachother. the ebrake light is going on as well while driving for 5-30 seconds every few minutes.
 
#5 ·
These things have been causing all kinds of havoc on both the Protege and the '96 LX this winter... Once a month or so they seize again and hang the rear brakes up.

The OP is right - you have to take them out and beat them until they free up. I have tried soaking them in PB, WD-40, and Liquid Wrench but it all seems to dry up or burn off.

I just had them off again today, and this time, I ran them over the wire-wheel to clean off the surface rust. I then smothered them in calliper lube (sticky grease for disc brake calliper slider pins) and reassembled.

I too have tried to locate new ones, but the people at the parts stores have no clue what I'm asking for. Didn't find any on eBay either.
 
#6 ·
When I had one do that I just broke the little retaining clip off, took it apart and sanded everything. Then, I drilled a hole were the retaining clip went, lubed it with antisieze, put it back together, and installed a cotter pin in the hole to keep it together. No more problems.
 
#8 ·
Hate to bump an old thread, but is this piece inside the drum, or on the outside/back of it? I gotta fix this in the morning so I can get to school, and it's going to be snowing, so knowing as much as possible to get this done quickly would be awesome- like what it takes to remove this part.

Thanks!
 
#9 ·
it is inside the drum. if your e-brake is stuck on you are going to have a small nightmare on your hands. also if there is a groove in the drum you will have an even bigger nightmare. best to either wait for warmer weather or a garage to work in.

if they as stunk on tight and you need to drive now work the parking brake handle just alittle bit while at the same time rocking the car front and back. it may take some time before it frees up though.

good luck.
 
#10 ·
it is inside the drum. if your e-brake is stuck on you are going to have a small nightmare on your hands. also if there is a groove in the drum you will have an even bigger nightmare. best to either wait for warmer weather or a garage to work in.

if they as stunk on tight and you need to drive now work the parking brake handle just alittle bit while at the same time rocking the car front and back. it may take some time before it frees up though.

good luck.
 
#11 ·
i just use a tire iron and manually shove the cable so it's not "engaged" anymore. just make sure you don't have the parking brake handle up, otherwise you will be fighting the cables.
 
#15 ·
pextor said:
people don't know how to search.....not that you need to search, it's like 8 posts down from this one:

http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=55036
I can search, but I have no idea what words were used in the title of it, (Escort parking brake video? Escort Rear Drum video? ZX2 drum repair?, etc, etc). If someone knows the video in question better than I do, they might have an easier time finding it. And obviously, you did, so thank you.

I did find these two, the first one is actually fairly helpful, the second (the professional looking '90s one) doesn't seem to touch on the parking brake lever.

"2001 Ford Escort ZX2 Rear Drum Brakes How To 2.0 DOHC"


"Ford Escort - Rear Brakes Repair Video"
 
#17 ·
So is the only option for replacing the e-brake/self adjuster getting one from a boneyard? Loosening up the e-brake mechanism is easy, but when the knurl on the edges of the self adjuster wears away you are screwed. That's the boat I am in.

Since the knurls are wore away the adjuster keeps trying to adjust, then slips back, adjust, and slip back, constantly while I apply the brakes. This make a clicking sound in my right rear wheel. It's the only thing I can think of making that noise. I too did not find a thing online nor did the parts stores have any means of acquiring one.


What I did to free up my e-brake mechanism was to soak it down with PB Blaster, then I drove the pin out with a hammer and punch. I sanded the pin and used a small file with a triangular cross section to clean the rust out of the holes the pin went through. Then I used an abrasive disk on a right angle die grinder to clean up the flat surfaces of the parts. I lubed up the pin and holes with just a little wheel bearing grease and then reassembled the parts and put the retaining clip back on. Works like a dream.

I am a Toolmaker so I am used to restoring function to mechanisms.


Steve
 
#18 ·
1001Hobbies said:
So is the only option for replacing the e-brake/self adjuster getting one from a boneyard? Loosening up the e-brake mechanism is easy, but when the knurl on the edges of the self adjuster wears away you are screwed. That's the boat I am in.
Have you tried restoring the groves in it? I've done this kind of thing before with a file and hacksaw.
 
#19 ·
Wow, that would be tedious, and perhaps a temporary fix.

I am going to post in the part number section ultimate info about this part. I just got great info, they are available on ebay as well, official Ford part. They are pricey!!!!!

Ford does not call it an adjuster, they call it a Lever. I don't know why. Anyway, check out the Parts Numbers section.

Steve
 
#21 · (Edited)
I was glad to see the part number, and see them on ebay.
I have to free mine up about each 5 or 6 years. I have five 2nd gen. Escorts, so I do it to a couple of them at a time. The left side and right side ones are a mirror image of each other. I remove the part (Ford calls it a handbrake actuator in the Service Manual) free them up, and once the solvent (old gas) has dried off, I spray them with a liquid molybdenum, which dries up, leaving a nice coating that is non sticky, but wont melt away.
When I asked about these at the Ford dealer about ten years back, they could order the handbrake actuators for about $53 apiece.
 
#22 ·
I was able to cleanup my OEM using steel wire brush as an attachment on a high speed A/C powered rill. Once cleaned up, used bearing grease between the contact surfaces.

The next problem I experienced, wasn't them seizing again, but all the teeth being worn out. I noticed during the first couple of times I was in it, that they were gradually wearing away, starting with the teeth you come across as it self-adjusts.

Once your automatic adjusters are stripped to a point, the e-brake can no longer self-adjust to the point of being effective. Unable to locate new replacements at the time, I picked up another set from a wrecked 'scort in the junkyard. If push came to shove, I would've considered cutting new teeth on the thing.
 
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