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I have to ask: What competent mechanic can determine that the contents of the CCRM have "melted" when it's a sealed (riveted) black metal box? And then proceeds on his own to replace said box with another (for $100+ ?) without your consent? And throws away the original in such a way that it can't be retrieved from the trash? I call shenanigans.

No one even looks at the CCRM unless after replacing the fuel pump the new one still didn't work.

What's the large letter on the label of the new CCRM? It should be "Z" for 98-03 ("R" for 97). But, as others have pointed out, that's not enough (other models that aren't Escort/Tracer can use the same letter), but it's a start. What's the Service Part Number near the bottom of the label? If that one matches one from another 98-03 Escort, you've got the right part, but it's defective. If it doesn't match, you need to get the right part.
 
Sometime last year I started having trouble with my A/C and discovered this thread. I bought a couple of used CCRM's (which did not match mine in some way) and they didn't fix the issue. I then ordered a couple of new JSM1-12V-5 relays from Mouser Electronics. I had some trouble removing the old relay, but finally took it off and soldered in the new relay.
When I soldered in the new relay, I noticed that the solder kind of bunched up around the solder points. I am certainly no expert at soldering, but I've done a bit. It just didn't look right.
My A/C did work for a while, but then I began to have more trouble. I took it to a shop for diagnosis and they said the compressor needed to be replaced, which I have done. I was a bit frustrated when I discovered that I couldn't get the compressor to run enough to be able to fully charge my system with freon. I took another look at my CCRM and thought that I saw some cracking around one of the solder joints, so I heated it up a bit until I thought I had a good connection. Once I put it back on my car, the A/C worked. WOOO HOOO!!!!!
The A/C worked for a couple of days. I haven't opened the CCRM again yet, but I'm betting that the solder joint has gone bad again.
I don't have the solder I used with me so I cannot tell you the composition, but I'm pretty sure I went to Radio Shack and bought some lead-free solder - as it's been mentioned in this thread that lead-free solder was used on these boards.
My question: what type and composition of solder is best to use for soldering in a new relay on the board of the CCRM? Before I try to purchase a remanufactured unit (which may, or may not, be the right spec and update), I think I need to remove the solder I have on there now and try it again using a different type of solder.
Can anyone offer a tip or trick which might help me in resoldering? Is there some substance (like flux) I should use when I try this?
Any help is appreciated.
It's starting to warm up in Central Oklahoma and I want my doggoned A/C to work.
 
I thought they probably used standard 60/40 tin/lead solder. There don't seem to be any RoHS marks on the board. I used rosin core 60/40 solder without added flux and didn't have any problems. It's easier to work with than lead free due to the lower melting temperature.

If you have problems it's probably insufficient heat. The board is passing a significant current, so you're dealing with thicker copper and wide areas of it. Those act as a heat sink, and the iron needs to have enough power to heat up the joint despite that. Though it must not be so hot that it burns away the flux too quickly.

The flux inside the solder wire should be all you need, though you could add flux.

Some people say bad things happen if you mix lead free and leaded solder. I've never seen that, though I guess it's possible you're seeing some weird reaction from mixing two types of solder.
 
When I soldered in the new relay, I noticed that the solder kind of bunched up around the solder points. I am certainly no expert at soldering, but I've done a bit. It just didn't look right.
I start first by using some solder wick to remove all the old solder around the legs of the relay. Sometimes because of excess heat the solder pads will lift off the board. If that happens I just use some small solid copper wire to bridge to the relay pins. The pins need to be clean of any oxidation, sometimes the flux is not enough to do the job. I will scrap the legs with a small box knife or exacto blade. If the solder is standing up in a ball you may or may not have a good connection. The solder could be tenting over the pin and not making a good solder joint. Some of the little pins on relays will take the solder good and others not so good.
I have seen this same problem on factory solder jobs with an ABS solenoid valve circuit board. Cold solder joints on the solenoid pins. That make for intermittent fault codes.
 
Well, I went home yesterday determined to tackle this issue. Removed the CCRM and thought I would try re-flowing the solder that was there. I made sure to spend some time on each of those five solder joints. Too much time, I think.
Re-installed the CCRM, started my car, and the A/C compressor came right on, with the cooling fan, even though I had my climate control set to off.
I think I was a bit too thorough this time . . . . . .
However, I am HAPPY to report that my A/C works GREAT!!!! I just cannot turn it off.
Tomorrow, I'll head to my handy dandy pull-a-part yard to scout out another CCRM box like mine. I've discovered that Ford used these units on many other cars: Taurus/Sable, Thunderbird, Mustang, etc. I'll keep an eye out for matching part numbers and matching versions, by letter - mine has an R.
Glad I ordered two relays last year!
Though this is one of those times where I get frustrated with my insistence to fix my own sh!t, I am grateful for the knowledge I keep building up. This was my first time to tackle evacuating and charging my A/C system and now it's not so scary. Which is great since my son's Escort needs A/C servicing, and my minivan too.
Thanks to everyone on FEOA for your contributions!
 
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