the following how-to is on how to repair the CCRM (constant control relay module) on 97-03 2.0 (zetec and spi) escorts.the most common problem of a bad CCRM is that the a/c stops working. this is what we are gonna be fixing. when u turn ur a/c "on" the radiator fans works, but not the clutch. u can either fix ur old CCRM, buy a new one, or bypass the relay
NOTE: before u begin, i must remind u that ur car will not turn on if it does not have a CCRM, if its ur only car, u might want to get a spare one just in case.
Buying a new one method:
u will need ur part # on ur old CCRM:
i know they r different, but the last 2 letters "BC" are what determine compatability
Fixing ur old CCRM method:
assuming u decide to fix ur old CCRM. u need to drill out the pop rivets to open it. once u open it u will find 5 relays.
the smallest of the 5 relays is ur WAC relay (omron G8SN-UA-007116) which controlls clutch operation.
2 causes for clutch inoperation:
*bad solder joint on WAC relay
*faulty WAC relay
*BAD SOLDER JOINT:the most common is a cold solder joint. basically it means the lead and solder are not making contact. pic showing location of bad solder joint
u will need a 30-40W soldering iron, any cheapy one will do the trick just fine too :wink:
before u begin soldering, u need to remove the anti-moisture gel thing around the area ur gonna be working on. after that heat the joint and apply solder, inspect the joint and make sure it looks fine. note: u might need to apply excessive solder to make a good contact due to the anti-moisture thing.
*BAD/FAULTY RELAY:
this one is a little more complicated, it requres removing ur original relay and replacing it with an aftermarket one. Radio Shack partno 275-005 relay is the same size and has the EXACT same pin pattern. the only problem is that it is rated at 7-9VDC instead of 12V. this might cause it to have a shorter life but it will work.
link to relay:
http://www.radioshack.com/sm-7-9vdc-12a-spdt-relay-mini--pi-2049716.html
after u have fixed ur CCRM, now that u dont have rivets, u will need 2 small screws w/ nuts to close it.
*JERRY-RIG METHOD aka Nacho's Way
WARNING: some cars will stall on red lights with this mod, due to the fact that ur computer doesnt know that ur a/c is on and does not change ur idle speed. this should be ur last resort
this method requires some cutting and tapping into wires. it basically bypasses the WAC relay inside the CCRM. it supplies ur clutch with battery voltage from ur low-pressure switch.
the pressure switch is located on top of the accumulator (the black thing next to ur windshield reservior) u have to tap into the green w/ red wire and connect the other end of the jumper cable to the blue w/white wire going to ur compressor.
other links:
http://proacshops.com/artman/publish/article_18.shtml
http://www.autoclinic.net/article/ford/escort_ac.htm
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=29744
http://www.ford-forums.com/ford-escort/4569-2000-ford-escort-constant-control-relay-module-ccrm.html
NOTE: before u begin, i must remind u that ur car will not turn on if it does not have a CCRM, if its ur only car, u might want to get a spare one just in case.
Buying a new one method:
u will need ur part # on ur old CCRM:
i know they r different, but the last 2 letters "BC" are what determine compatability
Fixing ur old CCRM method:
assuming u decide to fix ur old CCRM. u need to drill out the pop rivets to open it. once u open it u will find 5 relays.
the smallest of the 5 relays is ur WAC relay (omron G8SN-UA-007116) which controlls clutch operation.
2 causes for clutch inoperation:
*bad solder joint on WAC relay
*faulty WAC relay
*BAD SOLDER JOINT:the most common is a cold solder joint. basically it means the lead and solder are not making contact. pic showing location of bad solder joint
u will need a 30-40W soldering iron, any cheapy one will do the trick just fine too :wink:
before u begin soldering, u need to remove the anti-moisture gel thing around the area ur gonna be working on. after that heat the joint and apply solder, inspect the joint and make sure it looks fine. note: u might need to apply excessive solder to make a good contact due to the anti-moisture thing.
*BAD/FAULTY RELAY:
this one is a little more complicated, it requres removing ur original relay and replacing it with an aftermarket one. Radio Shack partno 275-005 relay is the same size and has the EXACT same pin pattern. the only problem is that it is rated at 7-9VDC instead of 12V. this might cause it to have a shorter life but it will work.
link to relay:
http://www.radioshack.com/sm-7-9vdc-12a-spdt-relay-mini--pi-2049716.html
after u have fixed ur CCRM, now that u dont have rivets, u will need 2 small screws w/ nuts to close it.
*JERRY-RIG METHOD aka Nacho's Way
WARNING: some cars will stall on red lights with this mod, due to the fact that ur computer doesnt know that ur a/c is on and does not change ur idle speed. this should be ur last resort
this method requires some cutting and tapping into wires. it basically bypasses the WAC relay inside the CCRM. it supplies ur clutch with battery voltage from ur low-pressure switch.
the pressure switch is located on top of the accumulator (the black thing next to ur windshield reservior) u have to tap into the green w/ red wire and connect the other end of the jumper cable to the blue w/white wire going to ur compressor.
other links:
http://proacshops.com/artman/publish/article_18.shtml
http://www.autoclinic.net/article/ford/escort_ac.htm
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=29744
http://www.ford-forums.com/ford-escort/4569-2000-ford-escort-constant-control-relay-module-ccrm.html