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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I read through the NOOBS thread but didn't seem to find an answer to my question.

My 1999 wagon dropped a valve sleeve and I'm looking to replace the engine since the car was, otherwise, in immaculate condition (for a 22 year old vehicle).

The problem is, I'm no mechanic and when doing searches for available engines, the "with or without upper manifold" question has me stumped.

Is there an obvious (visual or VIN or otherwise) way of knowing which version I currently have to maximize out-of-the-box compatibility with my chassis?

Thanks!
 

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Maybe the seller is just asking if you want the engine to come with the intake manifold or not?
What engine is it? A 2.0 SPI?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Maybe the seller is just asking if you want the engine to come with the intake manifold or not?
What engine is it? A 2.0 SPI?
Thanks for your response! To be honest -- my question probably exposes just how unknowledgeable I am on the subject. But here's what I can add:

My current VIN is 8th digit "P".

Out of those, when checking online for engines, they always seemed to be grouped in the following categories:

1) Federal emissions, upper intake manifold ID F8CE-CA
2) Federal emissions, w/o upper intake manifold ID F8CE-CA
3) low emissions

I took that to mean that they are actually produced/installed in those 3 types.

However, based on your question, it sounds like maybe they ALL have the upper manifold (factory installed) but, on the secondary market, some of the manifolds have been removed and some haven't? Is that what you're saying? If so, that probably makes my job much easier in finding a compatible engine because I'm guessing my current manifold could be used on the new engine if I got one that did not have one.
 

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Most engine resellers sell the engines complete with intake manifold, throttle body, engine wire loom and computer. Some will sell just the long block meaning just the block, rotating assembly(crankshaft, connecting rods and pistons) and heads without any accessories like alternator, fuel system or power steering pump. Short block is the block itself with crank, connecting rods and pistons with no head or accessories..

In your case you need just the engine itself so I would tell the reseller you only need a long block as I'm sure you can use the intake from your original engine along with all the engine bay wiring and the accessories that were on the original engine.

It sounds like you'll be having a mechanic doing the work so I would let him know you will be providing a long block and to take off all the accessories on the original engine and put them on the long block. This would be a good time to replace any questionable accessories and tensioners along with your accessory drive belt. I like using Gates Brand belts and tensioners. I like using Denso alternators as they seem to be the most reliable from my years of replacing alternators. I would also suggest you have the mechanic remove the head from the long block and have new seats installed otherwise you're setting yourself up for the same failure that happened on your original engine.

You have a 1999 wagon so you have a 2.0 SPI engine. AFAIK, any SPI engine out of a '98 - '03 Escort will bolt in with no modification necessary. The '97 to '03 Escorts are considered 3rd generation Escorts. Most 3rd gens came with Automatic Transmissions so make sure whatever SPI you get it came out of a car with automatic transmission. I didn't include the '97's as engine candidates because that was when Ford was crossing over from the return style fuel system to the returnless like you have on your '99 and what all '98 - '03 SPI Escorts have but since you just need the long block a '97 should work with the current fuel system on your wagon.

Now.....

Since the engine is dust you can also upgrade the engine to a Zetec DOHC engine out of an Escort ZX2. It is the sport model and has a higher horsepower engine. Your SPI peaks at around 110hp. The zetec will put out around 132hp. Add in the cold air intake tube and engine computer from the special edition S/R model of the ZX2 and you'll up it to around 143hp if more power is something you've always wanted out of your wagon. If your wagon is an automatic just make sure the Zetec is out of an automatic ZX2. The S/R computer only works with the G5M manual transmission so if yours is automatic you won't be able to use the computer but you can still use the cold air intake tube.

I did the swap on my '98 SE wagon and I love it! I bought a crashed ZX2 from someone for cheap, IIRC it was around $250, and swapped out the SPI and automatic trans(F4EAT) and dropped in the Zetec and G5M manual trans from the ZX2. It was pretty much plug and play and took me around 3 - 4 days to do the swap. Now that I've done it I could probably do it in 2. No modifications needed as everything bolts into the existing mounts. The only thing you'll need to do is use the low side A/C line from the ZX2 and lengthen the A/C compressor power wire as it's on the other side of the engine from the SPI. Other than that it's pretty much plug and play. Also, you can see the S/R intake tube I installed on the engine in the picture below. The strut tower bar is off of a 2002 Mazda Protege5 wagon that I found in a junkyard in my area that I had to do some minor modifications to fit. I have a thread I started showing what I did if you're interested. Picture of the wagon is in my avatar. If you have any questions you can respond here or in a private message to me.

Good Luck whatever you decide!



John
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Most engine resellers sell the engines complete with intake manifold, throttle body, engine wire loom and computer. Some will sell just the long block meaning just the block, rotating assembly(crankshaft, connecting rods and pistons) and heads without any accessories like alternator, fuel system or power steering pump. Short block is the block itself with crank, connecting rods and pistons with no head or accessories..

In your case you need just the engine itself so I would tell the reseller you only need a long block as I'm sure you can use the intake from your original engine along with all the engine bay wiring and the accessories that were on the original engine.

It sounds like you'll be having a mechanic doing the work so I would let him know you will be providing a long block and to take off all the accessories on the original engine and put them on the long block. This would be a good time to replace any questionable accessories and tensioners along with your accessory drive belt. I like using Gates Brand belts and tensioners. I like using Denso alternators as they seem to be the most reliable from my years of replacing alternators. I would also suggest you have the mechanic remove the head from the long block and have new seats installed otherwise you're setting yourself up for the same failure that happened on your original engine.

You have a 1999 wagon so you have a 2.0 SPI engine. AFAIK, any SPI engine out of a '98 - '03 Escort will bolt in with no modification necessary. The '97 to '03 Escorts are considered 3rd generation Escorts. Most 3rd gens came with Automatic Transmissions so make sure whatever SPI you get it came out of a car with automatic transmission. I didn't include the '97's as engine candidates because that was when Ford was crossing over from the return style fuel system to the returnless like you have on your '99 and what all '98 - '03 SPI Escorts have but since you just need the long block a '97 should work with the current fuel system on your wagon.

Now.....

Since the engine is dust you can also upgrade the engine to a Zetec DOHC engine out of an Escort ZX2. It is the sport model and has a higher horsepower engine. Your SPI peaks at around 110hp. The zetec will put out around 132hp. Add in the cold air intake tube and engine computer from the special edition S/R model of the ZX2 and you'll up it to around 143hp if more power is something you've always wanted out of your wagon. If your wagon is an automatic just make sure the Zetec is out of an automatic ZX2. The S/R computer only works with the G5M manual transmission so if yours is automatic you won't be able to use the computer but you can still use the cold air intake tube.

I did the swap on my '98 SE wagon and I love it! I bought a crashed ZX2 from someone for cheap, IIRC it was around $250, and swapped out the SPI and automatic trans(F4EAT) and dropped in the Zetec and G5M manual trans from the ZX2. It was pretty much plug and play and took me around 3 - 4 days to do the swap. Now that I've done it I could probably do it in 2. No modifications needed as everything bolts into the existing mounts. The only thing you'll need to do is use the low side A/C line from the ZX2 and lengthen the A/C compressor power wire as it's on the other side of the engine from the SPI. Other than that it's pretty much plug and play. Also, you can see the S/R intake tube I installed on the engine in the picture below. The strut tower bar is off of a 2002 Mazda Protege5 wagon that I found in a junkyard in my area that I had to do some minor modifications to fit. I have a thread I started showing what I did if you're interested. Picture of the wagon is in my avatar. If you have any questions you can respond here or in a private message to me.

Good Luck whatever you decide!



John
Holy cow, man. That's amazing!

Unfortunately, I already bought he new engine and it's at the shop waiting on my mechanic to do the swap.

But, wow. This is the kind of information that I was looking for and I sincerely thank you for taking the time to share it. Your wagon looks great and, I imagine, has quite a bit more "pep" now!
 

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Sorry I was late to respond but I'm glad you got an engine. I would imagine it's a used engine so I would still have the mechanic remove the head and have a new set of valve seats installed to ensure you won't have this issue again.

OEM SPI valve seats have been the biggest weak link in this otherwise bullet proof engine. Now that the engine is out of the car it'll be much easier for the mechanic to do the head work necessary to ensure many more miles of use out of your Escort.

I would also look at reviewing the timing belt, again, since the engine is out of the car. Same with accessories, accessory belt and tensioner. This would also be a good time to clean up the engine bay walls if you care about what the engine bay looks like. Functionally it'll be fine regardless but with the engine and trans out of the way it's much easier to get in there with a good quality paint can and give her a nice coat of paint.

When I did the swap I just gave the bay walls a degrease and quick sand to scuff the paint for better adhesion. Didn't even have to move some of the lines original to the car. Just used a piece of cardboard to keep the overspray down and taped off a few bits here and there I didn't want painted. Used a satin black spray paint to clean up the look underhood. I also degreased the engine before installing. I hate working on cars and ending up with grease from hands to my shoulders trying to get access to stuff!

Link to the swap I did on the wagon of you're interested:

In any case, if you have any other questions feel free to chime in and hopefully I'll see it in time this time!😀

John
 
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