FEOA Forums banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,477 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
To change the Thermostat:

-Drain part of the radiator into a container.

-Take the air intake tube off and the air cleaner plastic housing out.

-Unplug the coilpack.

-Unbolt the coilpack from it's bracket (4 small bolts).

-Unbolt the coilpack bracket (3 bolts, I think).

-Disconnect upper radiator hose from thermostat housing.

-Unbolt the thermostat housing (3 bolts). Be very careful with these bolts they can be brittle.

-Pull thermostat housing away from engine (you may loose some coolant but it won't be a lot). Pay attention to how you take the thermostat out so that you don't put it back in backwards.

-Scrape old gasket material off of thermostat housing and the head.

-Put new thermostat into thermostat housing.

-Paste gasket sealent on each side of thermostat gasket and place gasket onto thermostat housing (I've used Permatex high tack gasket sealent 3 times with NO LEAKS YET).

-Bolt thermostat housing back onto the head. I used anti-sieze on the bolts when I bolted them back in to help fight corrosion and to make it easy to take them back out in the future. When tightening these bolts DO NOT OVER TORQUE THEM (Chilton says 8-12 Ft. Lbs.)

-Reattach radiator hose to thermostat housing.

-Bolt coilpack bracket and coilpack back into place.

-Plug coil pack back into it's socket.

-Reattach Air filter housing and air intake tube.

-Refill radiator.

-Start engine and drive 10-15 min. until it is has been warm for a while and check coolant overflow tank, add coolant to collant overflow tank if necessary.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Good How-To. Just a little addition, if you use gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket, use fairly.small beads round both sides, just enough to complete the ring (IE, it shouldn't be oozin allover the place when you bolt it down). If you only use the sealer on one side, use it on the head side. (Similar, but not totally like oil pans / tranny pans, main gaskets where you MUST only use the sealer on one side, otherwise it'll slip, slide, and leak)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
I'm changing the thermostat of my 95lx, the bottom screw of coilpack bracket is such a PITA to remove, I 'm affraid that I may not be able to put it back when reassemble. Anyone just leave it out?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Oh well, screwed up big time, snapped off the top bolt of Tstat housing, haven't touched the other two yet and not going to. I'm sure they are all going to break off no matter how careful you are. Not only that, while trying to put everything back, found out one of the threaded holes of the coilpack bracket has been stripped, and as dreaded, couldn't screw the bottom bolt back on, nothing but a screw driver can reach into that little space. Not sure if hardware store has same size bolt with philip groove.

With much finger maneuver I was able to reattach that bottom bolt and tighten it. I put a plastic bag underneath in case bolt fell off there is something to catch it, lesson learn from yesterday, the broken bolt cap dropped and nowhere to be found.

Refill the coolant, start the car, there is a little leak but not too bad.

Part of the broken screw still in tstat housing, how am I going to do the repair? With the housing still mounted it's very hard to do the drilling due to space limitation. Removing the housing? What if the other two bolts also break off? f'k!!! it's such a headache to me now. Maybe better just donate this damn thing for some tax credit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
hey i just had the same problem (broke the top bolt of the thermostat/coolant housing) and now i have a leak. i'm pissed about it, and i'm not sure what to do next. what ever happened with your situation? i'm looking for some wisdom because i'm feeling a bit screwed at the moment
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,209 Posts
is there enough of the bolt left that you can turn it out with a pair of pliers? or slot the end of it and use a screwdriver?

if its broken off in the head, i think easiest thing to do is take it to a machine shop that can extract it for you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
if anyone cares, i brought the car up to my friend's house and we tried to helicoil the broken bolt out of the block. kept drilling larger and larger, but couldn't get the helicoil to grab. finally, we jammed a relatively large one in, and the helicoil snapped, leaving a piece of high carbon steel sticking out of the block...

the solution: we popped in the new thermostat (the old one was totally wrecked), and then JB QUIK'd the water neck to the block!

its almost one week and 500 miles later, and i'm still in business





never underestimate JB weld!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
better hope your t-stat lasts longer than your engine, cause you're not getting that back off without a hammer and a chizel.

What I usualy do with bolts like this is soak them with PB blast for a day or two, then work them back and forth between tighening and losening. I'll start out with tightening until I feel the bolt just start to move, then losen til it just starts to move. I repeat this gradualy losening it further and further ti'll it comes out. this works 95% of the time

Another tip is to use anti-sieze on the bolts when you put them back in to prevent this from happening again.

Lastly, you should NEVER have to use silicone on a gasket unless A: it came with silicone from the factory, or B: you scratched the sealing surface really bad. I have NEVER had to use sillicone on a t-stat housing and never had one leak.

if you DO decide to use silicone, you do NOT need a bead of it. Get some gloves (if your scared) and pud a dab of it on your pointer finger and thumb, and smear a light coating over the whole gasket. You don't want globs of it, just a nice, even, translucent coat of it. This will help it seal if need be, but won't give you globs of sillicone hanging off the sides and actualy makes for a better seal than running a bead.

-Harry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Dam, I just broke the head off of a housing bolt too and I was being careful as I could. :x
I have not removed the other 2 yet, think I will wait until tomorrow when I am in a calmer state of mind. :roll:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,296 Posts
vermonTAR said:
we tried to helicoil the broken bolt out of the block. kept drilling larger and larger, but couldn't get the helicoil to grab.
8O

A Helicoil is a repair for a stripped out fastener, not a sheared off fastener. It doesn't extract anything. You need to drill and extract the old fastener, and/or drill and re-tap before you can throw a helicoil in.

Matt
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top