I would cut the pigtail and all off the JY car, cut the wires back, figure out which ones are hot and ground, and touch them to the appropriate battery terminal and see if it buzzes or makes any noise at all. There's really not a real way to tell besides doing the aforementioned, or installing it. That is REALLY one of those things you want to get new....
every car i seen at pull a part has no battery so what i would do to test it before purchase is to bring a 9 volt battery with some wiring. some people will use this to check the shift solenoids in their transmission, i would too.
Wouldn't you be in your own car? I drive my car down thru the yard, went muddin last time I went though, it was SUPER slush from the snow the day before. Twas fun though! Looked kinda sick flinging rooster tails with the front end. One of those many times I wish it was AWD
HAHA, My local PnP is not a drive-in lot and if it was, I sure as heck wouldn't, or rather, couldn't drive this through it. This is a road beast; it does make me miss my stock winter beater though. I miss the ride in general. It has been put away for the season and it isn't ending fast enough, LOL.
yesterday i was going to replace the airtex fuel pump with a bosch and found out that one of the parts that comes with it is a hose to replace the pulsator. so no matter what pump u r gonna be using to replace the dead or poorly working one, u need to replace the pulsator. it seems to loose it's ability to seal properly when u remove the original fuel pump.
yesterday i was going to replace the airtex fuel pump with a bosch and found out that one of the parts that comes with it is a hose to replace the pulsator. so no matter what pump u r gonna be using to replace the dead or poorly working one, u need to replace the pulsator. it seems to loose it's ability to seal properly when u remove the original fuel pump.
I searched all six pages in this thread and there is no mention of H²O.
So I'm curious, has anyone with this issue, ever tried completely draining the tank ?
Theoretically, having water in the tank wouldn't be an issue until the fluid level gets low enough for it to reach the sock; which is four to six gallons.
I've never had the issue but the sock (at least in mine) is positioned on the driver side, and reaches up to the top of the round baffle that the pump is tucked within.
By the way, anyone know or understand how the float works, despite still being completely submerged half-a-tank or six gallons ??? EDIT: Nevermind. The phrase "specific gravity" popped into my head and that got me Googling.
Water does not float on top of fuel. It lays at the tanks lowest areas. Modern fuels that contain some ethanol actually have the ability to absorb quite a bit of water over time. This is one of the reasons that new gasolines sour so quickly.
Yep. Quickly realized that and edited in a correction.
That bit about water absorption is interesting. I guess you mean "gasolines sour so quickly" when stored in an open environment. Finite amount of air in a sealed container or sealed fuel tank with proper functioning evap system.
Even a little absorbed water starts reactions that degrade the fuel. Aviation fuels contain no alcohol and they likely never will. Too dangerous to rely on fuels that turn to sh-t. The EPA has mandated that oxygenated fuels be used in most areas to mitigate certain smog forming emissions, this generally requires that up to 10% ethanol is added to all auto gasolines since MTBE has been banned in most states. This means that the fuel must be fresh or it is near worthless. I have stored 100LL alkylate aviation fuel for years and it is as sweet as ever with no degradation. Can't run it in anything with a cat because it contains lead, but my vintage offroad motorcycles loved it.
Intuit:
I don't know how old you are, but back in the day, (50's and 60's, even into the 70's), motor fuels could be stored in tight cans forever and they would still be good. Modern gas with alcohol goes bad in a few months even when sealed up, especially if ambient temps are high. The old gas could be evaporated down leaving only small residues. Try putting a cup of new fuel out to evaporate and see what you end up with: nasty corrosive goo. The oxygenation of gas causes self decomposition and also reduces the calorific value of the fuel. Fuels that contain less energy per volume give poorer MPG results. Fuels that are oxygenated with alcohol are crap.
Interesting. Leaded fuel is a little bit before my time. My Father says back when they were switching-over, would on rare occasion, see someone with a newer vehicle use a funnel to fill up their vehicle with leaded fuel over the fact that it was a nickel cheaper. Says he realized those must've been rentals, as couldn't imagine someone ruining an engine to save 25 cents on a fillup.
No idea what is/was going on with BP fuel but years ago had learned to avoid them. Not only did I hate the smell of it, but would get way way less power. Supposedly all brands are the same; just different additive packages. Guess it was something about their package.
Millball, what color is the 100LL gasoline in your area?
I frequently get decent gasoline from an acquaintance in the hazmat business, and recently I got a jerry can of beautiful blue, toluene smelling fuel. Researching gasoline in my area of western Canada shows that this colour is only used for 100LL. I suppose it could also be ordinary gas with two stroke oil mixed in, even though I haven't seen blue two stroke oil.
I don't want to run this in the Escort if it is leaded due to the oxygen sensor and catalytic convertor.
I haven't found a simple way to test for lead in fuel. Anyone know of any?
The 100LL available to me is indeed a beautiful blue color. I don't know of any other fuel that is blue dyed.
I would never consider running any fuel of unknown character in any machine with a catylitic converter.
The risk of damage to the converter is too great.
If your blue fuel is clean, I would'nt be afraid to use it in non cat applications.
As a point of interest, the low lead designation of this av-gas only refers to it having less lead content than earlier aviation fuels did. This 100LL fuel still contains as much or more lead than any leaded automotive fuels ever did.
I don't know of any quick test for lead in fuels, but maybe someone out there can tell us.
"I would never consider running any fuel of unknown character in any machine with a catylitic converter. "
Too late- I've run a ton of this scrounged fuel (not the blue fuel) in the car and others in the fleet. We haven't had leaded fuel here for about fifteen years so other than the blue gas, the chances of having usable leaded gas that is fifteen years old seems remote.
I scan the codes regularly and the emissions still is "green" on the Innova code reader.
I have learnt a lot about fuel systems in the time I've been doing this. It can be a hassle but I'm prepared for trouble- I always carry a spare fuel pump, filter etc. in the vehicle. If I ruin the convertor, I'll get a junkyard one and still be way ahead money wise.
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