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relocating the battery is really really easy, just try it youll see, its not hard to take a battery mount out of the engine bay and put it over the jack hole, of course half of the battery plate is suspended in air but hell its easy, then cut a huge rectangle out of the panel and your done (of course run wires, and a couple drill holes are needed)

i dont have a digi so i cant take pics, all i can say is its amazingly easy
 

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Vibrations shouldn't affect the battery. The engine bay is a pretty vibration prone place and that's where the battery normally lives.

Also, has anyone seen the newer Saturn Ions. They come with the battery in the trunk from the factory. Cool stuff.
 

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i think vibration will harm a battery, but a battery will see vibration all the time, so its no difference

if your worried get a optima battery they are made to be vibration resitant, more then regular batteries
 

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hate to bump an old thread but what did you guys do with the little black "box" that hooks up to your battery? Did you run all new wires for that?I went to home depot couldnt find any multi wire that has 900 amps so im gonna be using the audio wire that i also had in my car for my amp.

Thanks George
 

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^ That thing can just get grounded to the chassis in the engine bay. It's just a collection of harness grounds.
 

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and im just quessing that i can use the amp cable for the negative and positive?i just mounted the box and grounded those cables just waiting on this last question and ill be done.

Thanks
 

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Yeah, there are some guys on here who will get into specifics but as long as it's heavy enough to carry the power over the distance you should be good to go.

You only actually need to run one wire from the battery to the engine bay... the positive one. Just ground the negative battery terminal to the chassis at the rear of the car. The shorter the path to ground, the better.

I'm going to do this to my car some day... I actually forgot all about that I wanted to do it until I found this thread LOL
 

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well just a heads up i did this without any problems at all. took like maybe 30 mins tops and these instructions couldnt have been any simpler.But it was hard getting the rusted bolts off my old battery tray was a pain in my butt.

Thanks
 

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Hey this was a big help you guys! I am relocating my batterie, bacuause...well ... it touches the frame and electrocutes me alot... its not in the usual place for an escort so i wanted to look into this...
IN your opinions, which was the best box? i know alot of you said you didnt use them, but for SCCA they are saying i need a box if i do a trunk conversion... so
walmart box did ok? And seriously...if i need vents... cant i just cut into the plastic???
i mean if the vents are letting hydrogen out into the car any way.... its pretty much the same no? Or am i just very confused??
(stero wire is my favorite... just used it to set up my manual fuel cut off... love it~!)
 

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if you relocate to the trunk you need a battery box that is sealed aside from a vent hose that leads to the outside of the car. or you can buy a sealed cell (optima) style battery... they dont need vents. you can even mount them sideways, there is nothing to leak.

remember guys, if you drag race your car you will need an external cut off switch on the back of the car (yes, like the ones you see on "real" drag cars) in order to race with a relocated battery.
 

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the only thing gained is more room to work without having to remove the battery. problem is alot of work that you do to a vehicle its a great idea to remove the battery anyways. putting it in the rear isnt making things any easier. besides you want as much weight over the drive tires for traction.
 

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This is a nice writeup. However there is one thing that should be changed. Buying wire at home depot means that is is probably rated at 120 volts. Meaning it might carry 900 amps at 120v, but a fraction of that at 12v. Even worse if it was 220v wire.

Also, 8 guage is way small to run. I run 4-gauge amp wire and am thinking about running a second 4-gauge run to the front. Just use amp wire and not house wire and you should be fine. Use wire loom also. A fuse would be a wise investment as well.
 

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Honda battery swap

I was searching thru the internet and came across this. Think it will work for weight reduction on our cars along with relocation? Its a motorcycle battery! Thats a honda crx battery thats being compared. Maybe good for racing when wanting lightweight? http://crx.honda-perf.org/articles/battrep/battrep.html


680 cranking amps
Short circuit current over 1800A
25 minute reserve capacity with 25amp load
Length 7.06"
Width 2.93"
Height 6.56"
Weighs less than 14.5 lbs

Couple that with this little battery holder and it could probaly fit in the spare tire area.
 

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Found this forum ( http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... 290&page=2 ), guys using this battery in theyr wrx's, mini coopers and other vehicles. No flicker when ac is on, people installing it under ther seats. Would like like to hear some feed back. Im thinking of grabbing one of these.
 
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