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damn, i had forgotten about this thread.

Just to make everything simple to read, I'll just reply to the number of your reply.

1: There are dyno proven LOSSES to those intakes. If the opening of your airbox has the same or more open area than your throttle body, then you are not gonna pull any more air through an aftermarket intake than you would the stock. Plus every aftermarket intake I have ever seen has put the cone filter in the engine bay, thus sucking more hot air than the stock intake, thus making less power than stock.

2. I don't know how I can be any clearer on this? The computer system usualy uses a knock sensor to adjust timing and is set to give the maximum advance without pinging. You can't set the timing any closer than the computer will get it.

For cars without knock sensors, the timing has been set at the factory with computers to the optimal advance without pinging. If you go beyond this just a hair, you will have pinging (pre-ignition) that you can't hear. This is actualy robbing you of your power because the fuel is igniting before the piston has finished its compression stroke. This can lead to engine damage.

3: I'd be interested in seeing these dyno charts. Also, I'd be interested in seeing these folks supposed certification as mazda techs. On all of those links you posted, I have yet to see where any of them have posted anything saying they have certification in anything other than shade-tree mechanics.

Once again, it all depends on the size of the sensor bore. IF its the same size or larger than the throttle body, you will not gain any performance. If it is smaller than the throttle body, then sure, you'll gain a little. Its a matter of simple physics. I could cut a hole in a 5 gallon bucket and mount the MAF sensor (converting the bucket into the sensor housing) and the engine will still not pull anymore air than it will with a housing bore the same size as the TB.

4: DOT approval isn't set up to make your car look like shit, its for SAFETY of other drivers. I can't tell you how many faded aftermarket tail-lights i've seen where the brake lights are pink or damned near white.

I'm not gonna get into the emissions part, because I too think most of it is BS.

5: Once again, I don't know how I can make this any more clearer. If your stock ground straps/cables are fine, then you're waisting your money. Vehicles come with at least 3 grounds cables nowadays. This is to ensure a good ground by a fail-safe method, meaning that if 1 of the grounds has a weak connection, one of the other two will take the load.

Energy in all forms takes the path of least resistance. Knowing this, I don't care if you have 20 ground cables, the electricity is only going to go through the cable with the least resistance at the time.

So if you make sure all of your factory ground connections are clean, buying any more ground cables is a waste of money.

6: Your argument shows how little you actualy know about engines. Obviously changing a 190 degree thermostat for a 180 degree will not keep the computer in open loop, but it will speed the wear of your engine.

Thermostats are designated to offer optimal thermal expansion for engine components, such as pistsons, cylinder bores, etc... Running a cooler than factory spec. thermostat will keep the parts from expanding like they should, thus increasing engine wear.

Removing the t-stat will only speed up the wear on the engine from it never fully warming up. It will also cause you to run rich, thus negating any added power from a cooler combustion chamber, and also will lead to fouled plugs, fouled o2 sensors, carboned combustion chambers, clogged cats, etc... Just because "everybody" does something doesn't mean its good. A lot of people smoke, but its not good for you.

7: I never said I knew everything, I just know a lot about how vehicles/engines work. And I know plenty about my escort(s). I also know that the make/model of a vehicle does not change the laws of physics, as much as rice boys like you would like to beleive.

Yeah go ahead and laugh at me in my DOT approved escort. In the mean time, I'll be laughing at you when you have so many fines/tickets for not being legal, that you can't even afford insurance and gas to keep driving your rice burner.

So lets see... that makes 7 b.itch slaps. My hand is starting to get sore.

And ask your girlfriend about my eDick.

-Harry
 
Well i can say also, getting ceramic brake help extremely with brake wear, not only that but a nice new pair of struts for around 60 a peice can really help out, at least with handling, sythetic oil transmission fluid, power steering fluid, and brake fluid help the engine last longer as well, lots of little things that can be fixed for cheap, and that i have done myself thanks for the others, such as that swaybar info really can be helpful
 
1: There are dyno proven LOSSES to those intakes. If the opening of your airbox has the same or more open area than your throttle body, then you are not gonna pull any more air through an aftermarket intake than you would the stock. Plus every aftermarket intake I have ever seen has put the cone filter in the engine bay, thus sucking more hot air than the stock intake, thus making less power than stock.
The loss is in low end power, the gain is in top end power, I already said this. Go race a escort wagon with a header intake and exhaust and you can find out for yourself.

For cars without knock sensors, the timing has been set at the factory with computers to the optimal advance without pinging. If you go beyond this just a hair, you will have pinging (pre-ignition) that you can't hear. This is actualy robbing you of your power because the fuel is igniting before the piston has finished its compression stroke. This can lead to engine damage.
increased octane makes it possible to run a leaner a/f from the increased timing without pre-ignition. if you cant comprehend this you dont know much. Ever own a turbo car lol? My MSP has run a ton of boost thanks to this simple fact. Ever hear of race fuel? hears the concept, you getting better gas to run more timing and boost. wow how could you not know this?

I'd be interested in seeing these dyno charts. Also, I'd be interested in seeing these folks supposed certification as mazda techs. On all of those links you posted, I have yet to see where any of them have posted anything saying they have certification in anything other than shade-tree mechanics.
If you think randy stocker is a shade tree mechanic then you really dont know anything. Did you even read the link? did you read the quote I posted? stock vaf is corking the system after 6K.

5: Once again, I don't know how I can make this any more clearer. If your stock ground straps/cables are fine, then you're waisting your money. Vehicles come with at least 3 grounds cables nowadays. This is to ensure a good ground by a fail-safe method, meaning that if 1 of the grounds has a weak connection, one of the other two will take the load.
well obviously you havent ever own a sound system in your life.

Thermostats are designated to offer optimal thermal expansion for engine components, such as pistsons, cylinder bores, etc... Running a cooler than factory spec. thermostat will keep the parts from expanding like they should, thus increasing engine wear.

Removing the t-stat will only speed up the wear on the engine from it never fully warming up. It will also cause you to run rich, thus negating any added power from a cooler combustion chamber, and also will lead to fouled plugs, fouled o2 sensors, carboned combustion chambers, clogged cats, etc... Just because "everybody" does something doesn't mean its good. A lot of people smoke, but its not good for you.
obviously you would not run a low temp thermostat unless you are beating on the car and cauing more heat then stock with turbo etc at the track, keeping everything cooler helps. ever wonder why people put ice on their motor when they are at the track inbetween runs? i doubt 10 degrees will keep the parts from expanding.

So lets see... that makes 7 b.itch slaps. My hand is starting to get sore.
oh yeah, im a rice boy, how bout I come to down and run your shitbox escort with my vehicles that magically change the laws of physics lol hmmmm my escort gt would beat you, my escort lx would be you my mx6 would beat and my mazdaspeed would be you, and somehow they are faster than stock versions of the car....hmmm im a wizard. if im changing physics how is it that every car I have had has smoked a stock version of the same car tons of times?

my girlfriend would laugh at your *** eDick. go drive a stock car around you 88HP piece of shit. I cant wait til a rice out POS escort wagon with a HO header, exhaust and intake pumps your azz...because he lost horsepower by doing the mods,...
 
and the timing is set with a distributor, there is no knock sensor thats why you manually adjust it when you put good gas in tool
 
i hope he has the *** rice spoiler and tail lights when he beats you tool fucker.
 
edit this one was too mean lol
 
like your such a tool the first link is the dyno proof, your like show me the dyno lol tool

http://members.aol.com/solomiata2/Dyno- ... meter.html

and yeah, solo miata is a shade tree mechanic shop eh, your an idiot. go have fun with your 88HP we will be fine without you. anyone who wants to go faster in an lx:

3.8Throttle body

cold air intake

HO header

2.25" exhaust with no cat

air fuel controller

good gas

= one fun escort on teh cheap.

dont listen to this guy, he isnt talking out of experience
 
ok chum bucket. Since you seem to be hopping over-top of my points and just seeing that I dis-agree with you, we'll try this again.

Cold air intakes work. I know this. However, AFTERMARKET cold-air intakes do NOT work, unless you get one that places the filter in front of the radiator support. Why? Because in the engine bay the intake is not only sucking hot air off of the engine and radiator, but the intake tubing is absorbing more heat than the factory plastic intake does. Ever notice how a factory intake box is routed? Its sucking cold air directly in from in front of the fender well.

And nice try tossing the header in there to cover your ass on the supposed gains. not ONCE on here did I say there would be no gains from a header. Headers are an obvious gain over manifolds, douche bag.

Once again, nice try on the octane point. Not once was "advance the timing and run higher octane gas" brought up in your argument. This is another obvious statement. My argument was against running regular fuel with advanced timing.

And just so you know, Plenty of engines have distributors AND knock sensors. Check out an 1986 ranger with a 2.9 on advance autoparts website. bet you'll find a knock sensor and distributor.

No, I don't know who Randy Stocker is. I doubt many people do.

Yes, I read the link. The only thing I saw was him saying without any proof that it corks the engine at 6k rpm. I also see a dyno chart (that looks a lot like desktop dyno to me) That doesn't list engine temp, ambient air temp, or air moisture content. All of these things can make 4 horsepower difference. Once again, nice try.

As for the ground cables: Once again you miss the friggin point. I don't care if your running a 220 volt welder off of your car, Electricity is going to follow the ONE cable with least resistance. How much clearer can I make this?

How about this: http://www.cdc.gov/NASD/docs/d001601-d0 ... 01683.html

And yes, I have a system in my car. I'm pushing 1200 watts. Yes, if I turn my system up loud enough, the lights dim. Know why? Because the amp is pulling more power than the alternator can put back in. It has nothing to do with having 5 or 6 ground cables. If your alternator is putting out 75 amps and your amplifier is pulling 80 amps out of it, of course your lights are gonna dim.

If running your car hard causes it to overheat, its not the thermostats fault: You need a bigger radiator to disapate the heat. A thermostats sole function is to regulate coolant flow for maximum effecency of engine life and power. You can't increase one without losing the other. Without a thermostat, youll either A: run too cool which hurts the longevity of the engine and will cause you to run rich on EFI engines, or B: your coolant will flow through the radiator too fast to cool properly and you will overheat. ford 460s are famous for this.

With the abundence of different temp thermostats available, don't you think its kind of odd that car makers would put a 190 degree t-stat in an engine if it would have the same wear as a 180 degree t-stat that would offer more power?

And no-where have I ever stated that a cooler air intake temp will not give you added horsepower.

Yes, a car with valid improvements like headers, exhaust, and turbo chargers would dust me off. Never said it wouldn't. However, none of the items we've disagreed about are valid.

You've shown your ignorance by stooping to pulling out valid common-knowledge enhancements that we werent even discussing to try to get the one-up on me. You proved this right off the bat with the "Go race a escort wagon with a header intake and exhaust and you can find out for yourself." comment. I never said better exhaust and a header wouldn't give you more HP. and you know it.

That is the stuff ricers pull out to try and look smart.

If it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck...

I'm done with you.

-Harry
 
ok chum bucket. Since you seem to be hopping over-top of my points and just seeing that I dis-agree with you, we'll try this again.

Cold air intakes work. I know this. However, AFTERMARKET cold-air intakes do NOT work, unless you get one that places the filter in front of the radiator support. Why? Because in the engine bay the intake is not only sucking hot air off of the engine and radiator, but the intake tubing is absorbing more heat than the factory plastic intake does. Ever notice how a factory intake box is routed? Its sucking cold air directly in from in front of the fender well.

And nice try tossing the header in there to cover your **** on the supposed gains. not ONCE on here did I say there would be no gains from a header. Headers are an obvious gain over manifolds, douche bag.

Once again, nice try on the octane point. Not once was "advance the timing and run higher octane gas" brought up in your argument. This is another obvious statement. My argument was against running regular fuel with advanced timing.

And just so you know, Plenty of engines have distributors AND knock sensors. Check out an 1986 ranger with a 2.9 on advance autoparts website. bet you'll find a knock sensor and distributor.

No, I don't know who Randy Stocker is. I doubt many people do.

Yes, I read the link. The only thing I saw was him saying without any proof that it corks the engine at 6k rpm. I also see a dyno chart (that looks a lot like desktop dyno to me) That doesn't list engine temp, ambient air temp, or air moisture content. All of these things can make 4 horsepower difference. Once again, nice try.

As for the ground cables: Once again you miss the friggin point. I don't care if your running a 220 volt welder off of your car, Electricity is going to follow the ONE cable with least resistance. How much clearer can I make this?

How about this: http://www.cdc.gov/NASD/docs/d001601-d0 ... 01683.html

And yes, I have a system in my car. I'm pushing 1200 watts. Yes, if I turn my system up loud enough, the lights dim. Know why? Because the amp is pulling more power than the alternator can put back in. It has nothing to do with having 5 or 6 ground cables. If your alternator is putting out 75 amps and your amplifier is pulling 80 amps out of it, of course your lights are gonna dim.

If running your car hard causes it to overheat, its not the thermostats fault: You need a bigger radiator to disapate the heat. A thermostats sole function is to regulate coolant flow for maximum effecency of engine life and power. You can't increase one without losing the other. Without a thermostat, youll either A: run too cool which hurts the longevity of the engine and will cause you to run rich on EFI engines, or B: your coolant will flow through the radiator too fast to cool properly and you will overheat. ford 460s are famous for this.

With the abundence of different temp thermostats available, don't you think its kind of odd that car makers would put a 190 degree t-stat in an engine if it would have the same wear as a 180 degree t-stat that would offer more power?

And no-where have I ever stated that a cooler air intake temp will not give you added horsepower.

Yes, a car with valid improvements like headers, exhaust, and turbo chargers would dust me off. Never said it wouldn't. However, none of the items we've disagreed about are valid.

You've shown your ignorance by stooping to pulling out valid common-knowledge enhancements that we werent even discussing to try to get the one-up on me. You proved this right off the bat with the "Go race a escort wagon with a header intake and exhaust and you can find out for yourself." comment. I never said better exhaust and a header wouldn't give you more HP. and you know it.

That is the stuff ricers pull out to try and look smart.

If it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck...

I'm done with you.

-Harry
1. Yes i know how cold air intake works. Go put a Rx7 vaf and a cone filter on a GT, take it for a spin and feel the diff. I dont know what to tell you, it works. A CAI extension tube into the fender like how I have in my mazdaspeed is obviously ideal, the filter is a starting point.



You will notice the gains, have you ever done the flowmeter swap? so why dont you go see for yourself or go for a boot in an EGT before you bash some more.

2. An intake an exhaust alone will not make a big enough difference to really pull on someone(in fact it would still come down to the driver with a scort), put the 3 together and you have some synergy action going on. Loss of low end torque traded off for top end power. Most people refer to these as "flow mods".

3. When did I ever say to run increased timing on normal gas? no seriously?

4. of course many engines have distributors and knock sensors. Most around here are the GTX 1.6l and 1.8l. Then theres 4g63T, anything with vtec and well most modern engines. not sure how you made this an argument but ya i know what a knock sensor is lol

5. what sort of racing or data logging or experiments have you done for the mazda community? where are you faqs? you want better dynos go buy a rx7 flowmeter a egt and an hour of dyno time. you know miata,mx3s,proteges,egts,tracers all use the rx7 vaf with success, i dont know what to tell ya, maybe someone should just take you for a drive lol pretty sure its one of the first things alot of people do when they upgrade any car(mustang comes to mind).

6.[quotes]And yes, I have a system in my car. I'm pushing 1200 watts. Yes, if I turn my system up loud enough, the lights dim. Know why? Because the amp is pulling more power than the alternator can put back in. It has nothing to do with having 5 or 6 ground cables. If your alternator is putting out 75 amps and your amplifier is pulling 80 amps out of it, of course your lights are gonna dim. [/quote]

go put a grounding kit on your car, see if the lights dim with some bass, when they dont throw out your textbook.

7. any car ive ever owned would pwn your ass, from my $150 lx to my msp, especially with my "ricer mods". have fun going slow.
 
1. Guess where a factory Escort air intake is routed, genius? Also, cone filters (especialy K&N) have been proven numerous time to offer no gain over a standard filter. "Performance" filters have been proven numerous times to offer no gain over a standard filter. Cone and "performance" filters are rice. End of story.

2. Aftermarket intakes will not add ANY power over the stock intake. The exhaust (which I assume you mean a header and larger pipes) WILL add power, moreso from the header than the larger pipe.

3. I missed where you said to run higher-octane gas. So sue me.

4. After reviewing, I don't know where that came from either. Once again, sue me.

5. Anyone can post FAQs and have wrong information in it. Look at wikipedia if you need an example. Furthermore, you have yet to show me any certifications for any of those people other than they have a screen name and email.

And a lot of people gut their cars and then put tripple the weight back in with a stereo system. Whats your point? Wrong is wrong.

6. By your logic, the lights in my house dim when my heatpump turns on because I don't have enough leads going to it. Its because it pulls more of a load than the transformer outside can provide, idiot. Same thing with a stereo amplifier and alternator.

7. Maybe, maybe not. I personaly don't care. I know what an escort is (cheap economy car) and treat it as such. Thats why my car has 187,000 miles on it and other than a lifter tick, the engine is in tip-top shape with 175 lbs. of compression on each cylinder. Know why? Cause I don't go cruising the internet looking for supposed mods to throw at it and beat the shit out of it looking for a reason to justify my wasted money.

Let me know when either of your cars hit the 180,000 mile mark with the original engine intact.

-Harry
 
if it's stock with the motor and evrything then ANYTHING you can do like I said if you got the 1.9 it'll work
 
The extra ground wire thing:
So Harry, If I have a 3 inch hose (Wire) and I punch a dozen pin holes
in it (extra ground wires) then the water will all run out the 3 inch
hole at the end of the hose because it is the path of least resistance?
So if I lay it across your bed making sure it runs all down hill from
the tap to the end, you will sleep dry tonight?

And the incresed gas mileage I got by throwing out the Baffle Box in
the fender of my ZX2 is a fragment of my illumination? I guess that
extra 2" hole where the baffle went (IN the Fender) is doing no good
so I'll tape it off and lose that 3 or 4 MPG. You can send the check
for gas ($2.29 9/10s at 200 miles a week times 3 MPG) by PayPal,
check or Hard Ca$h to my house. You do the math.

And I'm sure Richard Petty, Bobby Allison and all those hillbilly
NASCAR dudes are tearing their aftermarket air filters off and
putting modern sedan air cleaners and stock filters on their
$100,000+ race cars. How could they have been so stupid for
over 50 years?
And maybe they need to throw out the 4" exhaust pipes and
put the old 66 Impala single 1 & 3/4 inch pipes back on.

Wait until I tell John Force and Connie Kalletta what kind of idiots
you think they are.
Do they all line up at the front or back door of your (Parents?) house?
 
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