How-To: 1.9 Transmission Removal/Replacement | Page 2 | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
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How-To: 1.9 Transmission Removal/Replacement

Discussion in 'Drivetrains' started by 94scortlx19, Oct 24, 2004.

  1. racescort94

    racescort94 Guest

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    Why are Automatics junk?

    I have a 1994 Escort LX and im putting the 3rd automatic transmission in it WHY?
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  2. racescort94

    racescort94 Guest

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    I was wondering if a 97 escort automatic tranny would work in a 94?If you dont catch me on this site my AIM name is martieracing2229 Thanks.
  3. c-malt

    c-malt Guest

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    oops?

    Is it ok if i didn't put a dowel rod through the tranny?
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  4. c-malt

    c-malt Guest

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    I have a 96 LX. When i get up to 85 mph my spedo makes a hissing sound and jumps back and forth between 85 and 120mph. What the f*** is up with that?
  5. crxess

    crxess Guest

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    Thanks for the step-by-step.

    I just did my first ever fwd transmission R&R using this info. (clutch replacement)

    A few notes:
    Didn't see any mention of disconnecting the shifter or shift stabilizer at the transmission.
    I did find that the easiest way was to pull the boot back at the transmission and remove the hidden bolt.

    My steps:
    Above
    Remove air box and tube to throttle body.
    Remove battery and battery tray.
    Disconnect backup switch, speedo cable and speed sensor wires.
    Remove bolts to bracket on top of trans.
    Removed Radiator cooling fan for room.

    Remove (2) bolts to clutch slave and hang slave.(or remove fluid line from slave)

    Jack up car, set on stands and remove wheels, calipers along with clips for brake lines. Hang calipers from metal brake lines.
    Remove 2 bolts from struts to spindles, tie-rod nut (pop tie-rod loose) and unbolt lower ball joints.

    Removed 4 nuts from lower mounts to support, 2 nuts at rear of support and 2 bolts at front of support.
    Remove lower support bracket. (gives more room working around under car)
    Removed shift rod and stabilizing rod on transmission.
    Used 3' pry bar to pop axles loose. Slip axles out of the way.
    Removed 2 bolts on engine side of starter.
    Place jack with wood block under trans. for support. Remove 3 large nuts and 4 bolts from rear trans mount and remove mount.
    Remove (2) rear, (2bottom (2) front then (2) top transmission bolts.
    Supported engine with second jack. (took up less room than tires.
    Lowered and backed transmission away from engine.
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  6. jdarrough

    jdarrough Guest

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    Hi folks. My son has a 1991 Escort LX. We recently rebuilt the engine, but now the automatic transmission fluid is regularly burning black, and the tranny shop found metal in the pan (I know these guys...no BS here). Instead of paying almost $2k for a transmission, I think I want to do it myself. Is it very difficult to rebuild the transmission myself? Are there a LOT of "special" tools needed?

    Otherwise, I think I am going to get a remanufactured one from Oregon Transmission Exchange.

    Lastly, how hard is it to convert to a stick?

    Thanks and sorry for all the ???.
  7. 95EscortDriver

    95EscortDriver FEOA Member

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    Just Changed the destroyed 5-speed in my 95 LX Sport 2dr Hatch. I did it almost like you guys, but it took a while longer.

    Above:
    -Took the batery &box out
    -Air intake box &hose
    -Top radiator hose
    -Clutch slave cylinder @transmission.
    -ucliped all clips on the drivers side that would hinder movement of the transmission
    -took out all the top transmission bolts
    -took out top starter bolts
    -unbolted all the hydralic line for clutch w/o braking the seals

    Below:
    -Jack up car and set on jack stands
    -Tke Wheels off &unbolt Axles from the hub
    -unbolt the one bolt that holds the Ball joints to the hub and pry loose
    -remove axles from the hub
    -pop out drivers side axle from the transmission only!!!!
    -unbolt the Shift Stabilizer and Shift linkage
    -unbolt catiytic converter from manifold and Exhaust bolt from back of oil pan. (mine broke off after 140K miles)
    -disconnect O2 Sensor and Reverse light switch, and the other one in the transmission (I don't know what it does...)
    -unbolt all remaining transmission to engine bolts
    -remove rear starter bolts and starter, (you don't have to disconnect wires)
    -support the engine w/3 4inch solid cement blocks and a 2X4 (I know, it don't fit snug to the engine, there is a reason for that!), Support transmission with Jack
    -IN THIS ORDER... Remove Top transmission mount from frame and tranmission
    -remove crossmember to mount bolts
    -remove Crossmember bolts and Crossmember
    -remove rear transmission mount, (Autozone calls that one rear Engine mount????)
    -Slowly lower transmission til engine rests on 2X4 on the blocks
    -Pry transmission loose from engine and slide out of engine compartment from bottom.

    What I didn't remove
    -Cooling fan
    -Radiator
    -Hubs
    -Calipers or Rotors
    -Tie-rod ends (that throws your alignment off!!!)
    -Passenger side axle from transmission, ( the diff doesn't have the chance to fall)
    -Struts!
    -Front Transmission mount

    The only problem I had was the rear engine mount, thats why I removed it. If I'd had caught it sooner, it wouldn't have taken me all day to get it out!!! The mount kept catching on the lower Sub-frame.
    zzyzzx likes this.
  8. escortrio

    escortrio FEOA Donator

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    thought id mention that when your putting the (manual) transmission in that if you tilt the bottom of the engine towards the front of the car its a heck of alot easier to go in as you will have no problem with the rear mount. i have had no problem with the mount whatsoever since if did that and iv been though many frustration from it before

    also if you use a piece of wood that covers the whole oil pan your less likely to need an oil pan gasket when ur done, or at least for me.

    a pinch of lithium greese on tranny shaft helps it go in also
  9. 95EscortDriver

    95EscortDriver FEOA Member

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    In a way, yes escortrio, some models you can. However, on the 94+ second gens, (my moms 94 wagon, my 95 LX Hatch), I noticed the power steering subframe is a little different than the previous models (my 92 wagon) where the 92 cleared with ease, the 94 and 95 could not be pried past the subframe. I believe it sticks out about a inch more in the corner underneath the drivers side axle, and Transmission mount.

    In my book, a worse design than the 92.
  10. escortrio

    escortrio FEOA Donator

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    iv did it in a 91 4dr, 94 wagon, 94 2dr, 95 2dr and my 95 pony.

    i pull the jack a few inches and put a rock in front of its wheels to get it to stay and pull it a little bit towards the passenger side while im at it. if you just get the flywheel side as far from the firewall as you can it wont do much good if the bottom isnt pulled back with it. not sure if its vice versa i dont do it with the radiator in it. just never try

    i could be wrong.

    i dont really have any trouble with the 1.9's anymore there alot easier to grab with your right hand and im not sure if the housing is actually bigger or not. without tilting it iv had trouble even getting it past the control arm. since i started doin that they go in on the first shot but last two were the pony and 91. i remember the 94 being a pain. put a spi and zx2 one in then threw the 1.9 back in with no problem. sadly i pulled them cuz the clutch wasnt releasing to find out i had to use the master cylinder to adjust the pedal height instead of just the front switch or freeplay. didnt have to do that with all the previous ones. i wont say im the sharpest pin in the coushon, thats 4 sure. when i reread my posts they dont make any sense sometimes.
  11. 95EscortDriver

    95EscortDriver FEOA Member

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    yeah, they are much easier if you can get the motor forward. Personally, I was doing it without even taking the fan out, little harder. I eventually got it prying it around the subframe with a crow bar (or extremely large, longer, and stronger flathead screwdriver :D ). I was doing a bare minimum tranny pull, didn't have all day to take stuff apart.

    BTW: how frickin hard is it to replace the rubber seal that goes around the shifter shaft in a 1.9L tranny? Jeffscortlx, little knowlege here, and where can I find a replacement?
  12. ajrn

    ajrn FEOA Member

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    I'm tearing into this problem over the weekend.

    I'm planning a clutch replacement, tie rod ends and both CV shafts, as the car has ~150K on it..

    I "may" consider replacing the front struts as well, if I don't find I need to replace the tranny-- just to get it done.

    Are there "other" things that would be smart to do, while I've got the car off the road and "unbuttoned" this far?? I was going to look at the condition of the starter cable, maybe flush the radiator..

    Are there other "things" I'll end up needing to do, I'll "regret" not doing now??

    (Great posts, by the way-- I feel ready to tackle this!)

    AJ RN
  13. 95EscortDriver

    95EscortDriver FEOA Member

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    U can dew eet!!!! I can feel eet!
  14. JamesGarfield

    JamesGarfield FEOA Donator

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    Just a quick note about getting the axle nuts off. My buddy and I made the world's biggest redneck cheater bar, seriously, and it worked great. I took the regular 2ft long extension bar, attached it with U-bolts to a 6ft long piece of 2x4. Had my buddy step on the brake, while I just leaned a little bit on the far end of that 2x4, and the old leverage equation worked its magic. An impact wrench would have prolly worked too, but you use what you got.

    In my case here, I just replaced the engine. The torque converter did Not want to let go of the shaft. We pulled and pressed and pried and finally it popped free. If I'd been smarter, I would have changed the tranny seal while the motor was out, but I didn't. Now I got the motor back in and running, and I'm seein a drip from the bell housing -- prolly tweaked the seal (or maybe the torque converter itself?).

    It's not like this project hasn't had a a bucket load of little things that need attention in the process of the engine swap. So when I get around to taking care of this leak (assuming it's the seal), I'm trying to decide which way would be easier -- pull the motor again or drop the tranny.

    It needs a driver's side half shaft too, either that or a new boot on the inner CV. Anyone used those boot kits with success?
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  15. ajrn

    ajrn FEOA Member

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    ...don't use the "split boots" that you wrap around.. Pull the shaft, and use a "real" replacement, if the joints aren't clacking, and you should be fine.

    If you blew a seal, I hope you didn't do it on porpoise..
  16. 94scortlx19

    94scortlx19 New Member

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    Wow, not a bad write up I did back then, considering I was 16 and a day after joining lol... I forgot about this!!!
  17. EatChevy

    EatChevy FEOA Member

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  18. EatChevy

    EatChevy FEOA Member

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    I'm replacing the clutch in my son's 94 Escorts probably next week for the second time in a month. The clutch that we installed last month started to slip after about 3 days of driving. Checked adjustment and slave cylinder, all is working perfectly clutch pedal adjustment good and release bearing sounds good. I believe that the pressure plate gave out, just got a bad clutch.
    Anyway this time pulling the transmission should be a lot easier, I installed all new parts last time, new axles, which I had no problems with the first time, both sides pulled straight out of the transmission,and I didn't put anything through the transmission to hold the gears in place? I just read someone said that needs to be done, all I know I had no problems with the gears and axles.one thing on the transmission that I don't know what it's for is the sending unit at bottom of the transmission on the shifter connection side with 2 wires lead off sender, what is this sender for? The wires got pulled out of ours when we pulled the transmission from under the car the last time and people at the parts store can't seem to find it to get another so the car has been doing without this sender connected.
    Back to the clutch, sorry got off track, I'm not going to buy another clutch from Auto Zone and I checked the clutch kit that O'REILLY Auto has and it looks like the same cheap made in China crap.
    Guess I'll get online and order a good clutch, I'd rather pay more for a good clutch then replace it again next month.
    Ok, I'll stop complaining, doesn't do anything good anyways. But I feel better. LOL
  19. EatChevy

    EatChevy FEOA Member

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    I've never used any kind of dowel or broom stick, never had a problem.
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  20. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    I figure that this might belong here. It's the same transmission that our Escorts use, I think:

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