How-To: 1.9 Transmission Removal/Replacement | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
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How-To: 1.9 Transmission Removal/Replacement

Discussion in 'Drivetrains' started by 94scortlx19, Oct 24, 2004.

  1. 94scortlx19

    94scortlx19 New Member

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    MOD EDIT. Keep it Clean People.


    ---How to remove 2nd gen. LX 5spd.Tranny---
    I removed my transmission from underneath;
    With the help of my brother in law in a total of about 4 hours.
    On a difficulty scale of 1-10 I rate ….. About a 5

    TOOLS NEEDED

    BASIC SET OF STANDARD AND METRIC SOCKETS/WRENCHES
    32MM SOCKET FOR AXLE NUT
    PRYBAR (ALWAYS USEFUL)
    FLOOR JACK/JACK STANDS
    IMPACT WRENCH (ALWAYS USEFUL TOO)
    A FEW BLOCKS OF WOOD (2X4s will do)

    ::: On the ground:

    Start by removing,
    -Battery, Battery Tray, Air Box, Radiator (easier Access),
    Catalytic Converter. (2 bolts from engine to trans. face towards the cat. So it needs to be removed to gain access to them)
    -Axle Nuts (these will require a 32mm Socket and a long breaker bar to remove, or an impact wrench if you have access to one. I will warn you, I broke 3 32mm sockets trying to remove them, if you have difficulty; there is another way to remove them that will be listed below.

    Now, lift the car and support it on jack stands so
    That the front bumper is about 2 feet off the ground (I raised mine 27”)
    BE SURE YOUR JACKSTANDS ARE RELIABLE! You will be spending a good amount of time under the car.

    ::: Off the ground:

    REMOVE,
    -Tires, Rotors (calipers can stay connected, but support them with a piece of wire to avoid hanging them by the rubber hoses)
    -Tie Rod Ends (don’t be afraid to bang the sh*t out of them with a hammer to break them loose)
    -Now remove the 2 bolts connecting the hub assembly to the strut
    **** If you could not remove the axle nuts also remove the 2 bolts connecting the ball joint bracket to the lower control arm then pull the hub assembly down and out to remove it, it may take a little bit of force to remove the axle stub from the transmission. Have a friend go underneath and apply force to it with a pry bar if necessary ****
    -Get underneath the car and remove the 2 bolts going from the starter to the engine, there are 2 more on the opposite side that will be removed with the tranny bolts. (I do it this way to avoid removing the intake manifold)
    -Remove the 4 10mm bolts on the transmission frame cross member (2 on the bottom of each mount)
    -Remove the 2 bolts going from engine to tranny that are on the bottom directly next to the bottom of the oil pan.
    -Take your 2 tires and one 2x4 and stack them up underneath the oil pan without them making contact (leave about a 2 or 3 inch gap), the motor needs to tilt slightly, but could use some extra support after the tranny is removed.
    -Remove the 3 bolts on the top of the transmission, connecting it to the drivers side mount.
    -Now begin removing the engine-to-tranny bolts, starting with the 2 on the catalytic converter side, then the top 2, and lastly the 2 left to remove the starter, now reach in, and remove the starter. The cables can stay connected.
    -Take your floor jack, with some blocks of wood on it for better balance, and jack it up to the center of the transmission frame cross member, just so it is sitting snugly, do not lift at all.
    -Remove the 2 bolts on the front end of the transmission frame cross member (Mine were rusted in, and even with 2 people pulling on the ratchet, they were barely budging. I used my impact wrench for these, and even that was struggling with them. It took about 30-40 seconds with the impact wrench to remove each bolt. Be prepared.)
    -Remove the 2 bolts on the rear of the transmission frame cross member, the jack will now be taking the load of the transmission (only about 60lbs, I can lift it with one hand)

    -Now have one person slowly lower the jack, while the other guides it out of the top, the only real clearance that needs to be checked is the 3 long bolts on the transmission that go up into the drivers side mount. Other than that, the transmission will come down without a struggle.

    Good luck!

    Heres a pic so you can see more or less where the bolts are
    [​IMG]
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  2. andrewbadera

    andrewbadera Guest

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    which way do the axle nuts thread on either side?
  3. highanddry

    highanddry Guest

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    Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey.

    Just look at the thread - it'll tell you.

    Usually, left-handed threads are only used for high pressure gases; something not encountered in any way, shape or form in the transmission.

    The nuts should be staked - to prevent inadvertent turning. De-stake them and they'll move, albeit with considerable force. They have to be torqued to greater values than your engine can put out at the wheel. Then apply a 2-3 times safety factor.
  4. highanddry

    highanddry Guest

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    Ok...go ahead and turn them clockwise then. If/when you get to 400 foot-pounds, that should be a good indicator that they're conventional thread, like every single other bolt/nut on your car :roll: .
  5. andrewbadera

    andrewbadera Guest

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    what is this haynes says about putting a dowel in place of a drive axle in order to prevent the differential gears from falling out of alignment?
  6. highanddry

    highanddry Guest

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    The diff gears are otherwised unsupported if both half axles are removed at the same time. If you're only doing one at a time, you need not worry. If you're pulling the axles to replace the tranny, you'll have to slip something through to support the diff side gears.
  7. andrewbadera

    andrewbadera Guest

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    I'm dropping the tranny to do the clutch and probably oil pan gasket and possibly rear main while I'm in there ... so yeah, both will be out. that might be an important item to note in this how-to.

    also personally I'm using a tranny jack, and the tranny crossmember was the first to go ... the last to go will be the tranny side mount, with a jack and block under the oil pan, and the tranny jack under the tranny ...
  8. newguy

    newguy FEOA Member

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    Will you need the wood dowel in a 3rd gen also? What size should the dowel be? 1/2", 3/4"?
    thanks
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  9. mk96

    mk96 New Member

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    shove a broom stick in there and that should work...

    "Remove the 2 bolts on the front end of the transmission frame cross member (Mine were rusted in, and even with 2 people pulling on the ratchet, they were barely budging. I used my impact wrench for these, and even that was struggling with them. It took about 30-40 seconds with the impact wrench to remove each bolt. Be prepared.) "

    I snapped one of mine off totally with an impact so be careful...(on 96 lx) so i said F* that and pulled the motor and tranny out as a unit...
  10. highanddry

    highanddry Guest

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    To all who read this thread:

    The two front fasteners for the crossmembers are nothing but trouble. They gave me grief and several others from what I've read on this board.

    You can see the two nuts you have to remove. What you can't see is the other end of the bolts/studs. It has a round head that is simply tack welded to the frame.

    When removing the nuts on older models, the tack welds get stripped off and you're left with no means to remove the nut since you can't access the top end of the stud and it has no head that you can put a socket or wrench on since it's round. Be careful and liberally soak with penetrating fluid.

    If you end up stripping the tack weld, get creative. Things get ugly.
  11. Dawizman

    Dawizman Guest

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    I'm having some problems with this. I'm changing out my clutch, and I'm following the haynes manual (Pretty Close To This). In the manual it says to remove the clutch line. But, I cannot get those nuts to budge. Any tips on howto remove them?
  12. newguy

    newguy FEOA Member

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    I am doing it on a third gen, don't know how different they are, but on mine I left mine attached, just made sure all the areas they have those spring clips were removed so the line can stretch without any real tension. I just will not move the tranny from out underneath the car. I only did this because I am lazy and don't want to blead the clutch :oops:
  13. marclar

    marclar Administrator Staff Member

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    ive never had a problem with the diff "falling out of alignment"
  14. Dawizman

    Dawizman Guest

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    Great, thanks man, this'll make it much easier!! I guess I'll just keep the tranny stand under the car while I throw in the new clutch, and not move the tranny too far away. I soo wanna get this new clutch in, my throwout bearing is really starting to tick me off its making so much noise.
  15. immortal_lx

    immortal_lx Guest

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    Confused...

    Did you leave the drive axles connected to the transaxle when you removed it? You didn't mention prying the drive axles from the transaxle.
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  16. scottwiiki

    scottwiiki Guest

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    Re: Confused...

    You have too, and you have to remove some parts on the front end with it.
  17. marclar

    marclar Administrator Staff Member

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    you can pry the long drive shaft out with a big pry bar. the short one will most likely require the special too. its a pievce of pipe with 2 fingers that go past the diff pin an rest on the axel. all u need is a big hammer to nock it out.


    the diff will not fall out of alignment.
  18. therieldeal

    therieldeal FEOA Member

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    i didnt have any trouble using a prybar/large flat screwdriver to pry both axles out. i used a short piece of broom handle in each side of the diff just for peace of mind, but the diff didnt fall down and rest on them at all, so i guess they were unnecessary :)

    also, i could NOT get the drivers axle nut off. so, i discovered that if necessary you can do this without removing that axle from the hub. of course, its best to just remove it, but if yours will not budge you could try this:

    unbolt the hub/spindle from the strut

    unbolt the ball joint from the LCA

    unclip the brake line from the strut

    have a friend hold the spindle up, while you pry the axle from the trans

    compress the CVs to make the shaft as short as possible, and have your friend pull the spindle out to make more room

    now you can swing the axle out and down, below the LCA and out of the way :)

    hang the spindle from the strut, and hang the axle from something to keep from putting a lot of stress on the CVs

    this only works on the drivers side. definately not enough room on the pass side, luckily on my car that side came off with ease :) haha

    -jon
  19. 97stationwagon

    97stationwagon Guest

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    Hi all, i am currently replacing the tranny in my 97 escort lx...and i can't get those axle bolts off. I have the shop manual and everything, and i read above, the real deal, could you possibly go into a little more detail with what you did? I was somewhat confused reading your post. Thanks.
  20. Egnorant

    Egnorant FEOA Member

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    Shortcuts.

    having just finished the clutch replacement on my 91 I wish to add some things.
    I did not pull the axle from the spindle.
    I removed the 2 bolts to the strut on the drivers side and the clip for the brake line.
    This allowed enough room to pull the axle from the tranny.
    Passenger side was pulled loose and slipped out as the tranny was pulled.
    I did not disconnect exhaust.
    Gearwrench worked just fine for the front bolts.
    Maunual also says to disconnect the hydraulic line...I just unbolted the slave cylinder and removed clips.
    Having a buddy over for the actual in and out of the tranny helped a lot.
    Pilot bearing removal was a huge pain.

    Bruce
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