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Tools needed:
Socket set including:
19mm
17mm
15mm (for good measure I cannot remember if it is used or not)
14mm
12mm
10mm

Screw drivers including:
#2 Phillips head
Flat head

Misc. tools needed.
Dikes
Pry bar
Ball peen hammer
17mm wrench


Optional tools
6" 3/8 drive extension
32mm axle socket (only if axles need to be removed if following this how to this is an unnecessary step)

1. First things first get your car off the ground, and well supported using at LEAST 2 jack stands one on either side of the car. get the car up high enough that you can move around and cross your arms over your body there is nothing worse than having a socket roll up next to your body when you have your other hand in an awkward position and have to basically squirm out from under the car just to reach it because you didn’t have the room to reach over your body. After this is done make sure at least one of 2 things is done the ebrake is on and/or the rear wheels are chocked. NOW BE SURE TO PULL YOUR FAVORITE CD FROM THE PLAYER BECAUSE THE NEXT STEP WILL KEEP IT THERE TILL THE JOB IS DONE. Before any wrench turning is done disconnect the negative battery cable. Now is a good time to drain the tranny fluid just undo the drain plug and allow time to drain. If you remove the Speedo gear mechanism it won’t glug and it will go faster, it’s totally up to you, it will take more time to remove the Speedo gear mechanism and it’s not really necessary. Waiting for it to drain is also a good time to remove both front wheels.

2. Remove the air box and battery.
To do this loosen the 2 hose clamps holding the intake tube. Remove the intake tube from the throttle body and the "black box". Then using a 12mm socket on an extension removes the 2 bolts and 1 nut holding the box there. The VAF connection is held on by a metal clip that is seated in a groove around the female connection. Just slide the 2 ends of this clip to each edge of the female connection and it should slide right off of the male. Remove air box. Now take a 10mm socket and remove the 3 bolts holding the battery tray down. Remove and place out of the way with the rest of the parts removed and going to be removed.

3. Next remove the fan shroud.
To do this there is a single clip on the wires going to the fan, this should be located near the overflow reservoir. Squeeze the sides of the connection to pull apart. Then using a 10mm socket removes 3 bolts holding the shroud to the radiator. (2 from the top and 1 from the driver’s side) then lift shroud straight up. It is not necessary but I found it easier to work in this area by removing the top radiator hose.

4. Supporting engine.
a trip to your local auto parts store and you can rent an engine support which is basically a cradle that spans from side to side and I believe front to back maybe just front, it has a hook hanging that you can support the motor by the designated support... ours is located on the head near the throttle body. You can also do this by running a 2x4 across the top and rigging up a hook that way. Although an engine support would be easier to work around.

5. Lower cross member.
there are 2 nuts and 2 bolts holding the lower cross member to the unibody then there are 4 more nuts holding the front and rear tranny mounts to the cross member. I find it easier to remove the cross member nuts and bolts first then dealing with the mount bolts. I have heard horror stories about the cross member mount bolts although the 4 escort GTs i have removed trannys on they have never been a problem for me. but basically I have heard they get pretty rusty, all I can say is spray lube is your friend as well as patience as with any stuck nut or bolt.

6. Front tranny mount removal.
Basically this is an unnecessary step. It doesn’t really get in the way but the slave cylinder hard line is run underneath it and the slave cylinder must be removed from the tranny. It is 4 14 mm bolts holding this on.

7. Slave cylinder removal.
There are 2 I believe 12mm bolts holding the slave cylinder on remove these and it should fall loose. Before causing any damage by reefing it up go to the top of the tranny with a 14 mm (possibly 15mm) socket remove the 4 bolts on the mount to the frame. Now take either a 17 or a 19mm and undo the 3 bolts attaching that mount to the mount below it. Again the 17 or 19 mm socket and remove that last bracket on the tranny. With a 10mm socket remove the thin metal mount that the clutch line runs through just before is changes to rubber (this is the piece that Corksports braided steel line replaces). Now being careful not to bend and/or crimp the metal hard line turn the whole thing up and out of your way.

: NOTE: if you have any issues with brake line leaks or leaks from the slave cylinder DO NOT ALLOW TO GET ANYWHERE NEAR YOU’RE PAINT! This will permanently destroy your metal. It seeps in down deep and will never come out causing the surface to never hold paint again.

8. Starter removal.
There are 3 bolts holding (the starter on the starter is located directly below the intake manifold). They are all 14mm bolts. 2 of which can be removed from the top and 1 you must climb under the car and reach up to find it... its up there. No electrical connections need to be removed/ undone because the starter will not be removed it will just lay there.

9. Exhaust removal.
I have heard of a lot of problems with these I have again been fortunate enough to not have any real problems but I do know rust is always around the exhaust. There are 3 nuts off the exhaust manifold and 2 on the other side of the flex pipe. be sure as I have said use plenty of penetrating lube and a lot of patience they should come its more or less up to you if they come of in one piece or 2 twisted torn up pieces in need of replacement. These I believe are all 14mm nuts.

10. Wheel well disassembly.
Alright time for the good stuff. take your flathead screw driver and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end, then take your either 17 or 19mm socket (I cannot remember I always remembered them being all 17mm in this step but iirc mine had a 19 on the tie rod end. And remove the nut. Now this is pressed into the steering knuckle so you’re going to have to take the hammer and hit the arm on the steering knuckle that it is mounted to. give sharp direct blows every once and a while tapping the tie rod (ROD NOT THE TIE ROD END BOLT ITSELF this will fudge the threads up making it so you would have to replace the tie rod end) it should go but if you must replace the castle nut upside down, get it flush with the end of the bolt and pop the tie rod end out. if you do not make sure it is flush you can still mess the threads up, if you pound on just the nut it can collapse the threads and if you do it on the tie rod end it can crush and mushroom the end and unfortunately if that happens you probably wont realize that until you go to take it off after you have successfully popped it out and after that happens it will just spin because the only thing keeping it from spinning is was the friction of it being pressed in. Anyway now remove the 2 steering knuckle to strut bolts. These are 17mm both nut and bolt. The steering knuckle and brake assembly will fall forward now take the dikes (side cutters whatever you want to call them) and remove the clip holding the brake line, This way you will have more play with the steering knuckle allowing you to work with the axle more. (Repeat on other side).

11. Stub shaft disassembly.
The stub shaft is the solidly mounted drive shaft coming directly out of the passenger side of the differential out to the passenger’s side half shaft. Climb under the car and using a 14mm socket and any combination of extensions to help remove the 3 14 mm bolts that mount the stub shaft to the block.

12. FUN WITH AXLES AND CIRCLIPS
Probably the least fun part of the whole process is this part. This is the step where you take your pry bar and "pop" the axles out of the diff. I would tell you to be patient but not even Buddha could have kept his temper so just try to keep it to a minimum. Take the pry bar from either the bottom or top (I have seen is successfully done both ways) then pop the axle from the tranny. Because you must pop it helps to have a buddy jamming the steering knuckle into the axle to shove it back into the tranny. This way you have more room to pop between the circlip and the surface keeping it in. Just be sure you get a rhythm going there is no helping if he’s jamming when you’re popping at the same time :) . It has come to my knowlege that ford has a tool for this. the stub shaft will come out easily , this tool is basically a bar with a U cut into the end so it can reach around the differential pinion shaft and make contact with the drivers side half shaft... you then take your ball peen hammer and take it to town.

13. Finally next step... start removing tranny bolts.
Id love to be able to tell you an exact count but I cannot. I can tell you that the small ones are 14mm and the larger ones are I believe 17mm. The larger ones are generally on the top of the tranny facing the drivers side although I can think of one that is below the starter that faces the passenger’s side. The 14mm bolts generally are in the bottom facing the passenger’s side.

14. Speedo cable.
Basically the last step before removal is undoing the end of the Speedo cable that attaches to Speedo gear mechanism. A simple metal clip is popped of and it will pull straight up.

15. Double check now.
Make sure you have everything done and out of the way. Make sure all the tranny bolts are out and nothing else but the pins (which you wont be able to see) and shaft are all that is holding the tranny up. Now call your buddy again because it takes some man handling to get this beast out. basically it has to go toward the drivers side then the back end near the firewall needs to drop down (twisting the tranny) then the tranny should come out the rest of the way and tada your cars something like 150 lbs lighter.

If you clutch if fine I would suggest not touching it but if it’s going now is the time to replace it because if step 12 hasn’t made you not want to do this again the reverse of 15 sure as hell will make you not want to do it again. So do everything you can afford and are willing to do now before you go back together. You are supposed to torque the clutch and flywheel but (very controversial) I didn’t and I didn’t have any problems. In fact the torque specs aren’t even exact something like 20-30 foot lbs for the pressure plate. Just make sure you get them as equally tight as you can and you should be good to go. Also if you do the clutch take the flywheel into a machine shop and have them resurface it. I had mine lightened/resurfaced for 70 bucks like 3 weeks ago when my diff went.

basically to go back together do 15-1 the opposite way you did them to take it out (duh) make sure you have a rear tranny mount on before you hoist it up because (moron Ford/Mazda, whoever designed this) made it so the bolt has to go through from the drivers side to the passengers side and the whole suspension/ sub frame is in the way. So it must be done before the tranny is in place. Also getting the tranny to seat is ALOT easier with a buddy helping on the top and you on the bottom jerking it around, just make sure you’re lined up and start jerking away. by yourself this is a 1 hour job (getting it to seat) 1 hour because it takes multiple attempts 1, blow up then take a break then 2, blow up take a break 3, blow up, just as you get it, where as with 2 people it will drop or pop in really quickly. also as your lifting the tranny up be sure you have the stub shaft in the hole because if its not and you get the tranny up there is not enough room to pull the stub shaft back to get it in so before hoisting it set the end of it in the tranny.

When it’s all back together fill with basically 3 quarts of ATF (2.8qt). Make sure everything is tight and go enjoy a new tranny :)
 

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basically the same method. there's a how to "clutch replacement for 1.8 2nd gen" in tech/repair. I'm waiting for my flywheel now, but those steps got me through the day in... christ, took me 3 hours to get from pulling into a driveway, pulling tranny, to my flywheel at a machine shop for the weekend.
 

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91JEGT said:
basically the same method. there's a how to "clutch replacement for 1.8 2nd gen" in tech/repair. I'm waiting for my flywheel now, but those steps got me through the day in... christ, took me 3 hours to get from pulling into a driveway, pulling tranny, to my flywheel at a machine shop for the weekend.
That's not too bad for doing it at home, book time is like 5-5.5 hrs to R+R clutch. I had the opportunity to take my time this last time, so cleaned and painted everything before reinstall. Oh and had time to fill the trans mounts with Windo-Weld.
 

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i like how this thread is nearly 6 years old
 

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and I like how you don't even own a BP :p just sayin
 

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even tho i don't have a BP, i still check out that section
 

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just sayin.....
 

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that reminds me of katt williams everytime i see or hear that lol
 
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