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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The problem is if you let it idle for more than 30 seconds, it does what I can only describe as very short revs like it is going to stall.

In my 95 T-Bird there was a screw you could turn to change the idling speed
 

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Beaverboy said:
92gt5spd said:
yes there is a screw to let more air in
on the GT, sure.
not on the LX
There is one on my 1995LX. It's more like a stub that you'd have to cut a slot in for a screwdriver (use a Dremel to do this). However, if you feel the need to do this more than likely there is something wrong with your car as mentioned above.
 

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zzyzzx said:
There is one on my 1995LX. It's more like a stub that you'd have to cut a slot in for a screwdriver (use a Dremel to do this). However, if you feel the need to do this more than likely there is something wrong with your car as mentioned above.
If you do this, all you're doing is covering up a bigger problem. That stud is a stop for the butterfly valve, and should be adjusted so that it just takes the stress off the throttle plate in the fully closed position. For a fuel injected vehcile you should not have to adjust this to keep the engine running. Idle is controlled by the ECU, if it's idling funny there is something wrong with the engine that the ECU can no longer compensate for.

poehitman said:
The problem is if you let it idle for more than 30 seconds, it does what I can only describe as very short revs like it is going to stall.

In my 95 T-Bird there was a screw you could turn to change the idling speed
Mine did that exact thing. It was bad enough it would even do it in gear sometimes. Almost 100% I can guarentee you have a vacuum leak somewhere. I'd start looking at the vacuum lines and work from there.

Matt 8)
 

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Something that hasn't been mentioned... If you have a leak in your intake hose somewhere un-metered air is getting into your engine. What you're describing sounds like how my car ran when I removed the MAF sensor and filter. If left alone for longer than a minute or so it would die. (Still drivable... You just had to keep your foot on the gas the entire time.) Check and make sure that's not the case... Lots of things can cause a funny idle. :\
 

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The first thing I'd do is take it to an autozone or something and have them check your codes. If IAT, MAS, TPS, or IAC get weirda*ss readings they'll screw with your idle.

It can also be a bad O2 sensor... I'm pretty sure that the ECU will fluctuate the idle like that to "search" for an a/f if it recieves no reading or something like that. It's pretty complicated, and I wish there was an in-depth design manual of how it all works... but there isn't. So stupid people like you and me guess at it and destroy our cars with trial and error until we find what works. That's the beauty of the forum.

On a personal note, I'm having the same idle problem on my 3kGT. I'm planning on replacing the valve lifters, spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, timing belts, and air filter and see if it fixes anything.
 

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I had a pick-up truck that idled so rough, it was embarrassing to stop at red lights. It was a vaccum leak as well. A small slit in the hose on the rear firewall. Invest some time and look. If you find a suspected worn place, put some tape on it. If that fixes it, replace that line...unless you just like the duct tape look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok, the problem has changed somewhat. Now while sitting at a stoplight, it will just die. You can restart it immediately. There is no roughness with the idle before it dies now.

Will the codes still show if the check engine light isn't on?
 

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I fixed the problem yesterday on my 3000GT by adjusting the cruise, throttle, and accelerator cable tensions. I dunno if it will be the same on the EGT though.

All error codes are stored in the flash memory of the ECU, so just make sure you don't disconnect the battery terminals before you get the codes checked.
 

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EGR Solenoid

When I had this problem on my 1996 Escort LX it turned out to be the EGR Vacuum Regulator Solonoid. I bought one from Autozone for like $30 and put it in. Problem fixed.

Oh yeah, and I had no check engine light, no codes, nothing. In fact, when I tested the resistance across the leads of the bad unit, it checked out fine. These things just go bad without warning. The only way to know if this is the problem is by replacing it and seeing if it works.

This was after trying a new EGR valve ($55), IAC valve($50), PCV valve($10), and vast amounts of Fuel Injector Cleaner($$$). Give it a go.
 
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