Horrible MPG's on a GT | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
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Horrible MPG's on a GT

Discussion in '1st Gen 1981-1990 CVH' started by Wingnut, Nov 25, 2008.

  1. Wingnut

    Wingnut Guest

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    Hello again everyone!
    So, just got done cleaning out and tuning up my 1st gen and looks like things are going good, except for three things
    1. Tach isn't working, how hard is it to pull the instrument cluster and if necessary, replace the tach cable?
    2. Pulled the timing belt cover and inspected v-belts. Power steering belt was a little loose not a problem but there was a bit of oil crud behind the timing belt cover. Cleaned that all up but couldn't find the source of the leak, might be the crankshaft seal, how tough is that repair?
    3. My MPG's are only about 16-22 tops. Hopefully this tune up will do the job but if not, what (outside normal tune-up stuff) could be causing this? I've replaced; air, fuel and blowback filters, cap, rotor, plugs and wires.
    Let the healing begin!
    Thanks!
  2. CODY004

    CODY004 FEOA Member

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    Answer to question one... Yeah they quit working. It isn't a cable (not sure what you mean, as there is no cable back there except the speedo cable).
    It's the tach assembly itself. The cluster comes out just as you would think it does, just go slow and make sure you do not forget any screws before pulling,
    (there are two under the center vents.) Most people buy a working tach off ebay I believe, but I did something different.

    [​IMG]
    That is an Autometer 4" Tach with adjustable shift light That I disassembled and mounted in place of the factory one...
    I did a quick write-up when I did it, search "tach not working" in the 1st gen forum.
  3. UnexplodedCow

    UnexplodedCow FEOA Member

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    Front main seal is in the oil pump on the front of the engine. Replacing it will require pulling the pump, which in turn requires removing all belts, main pulley, and dropping the oil pan on that end.

    Check error codes from the ECU, it might help determine the cause of the poor mileage.
  4. WJC

    WJC Guest

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    1. Pulling the panel isn't terrible, but you have to access the speedo cable and unclip it, which I can reach from under the far right side of the driver's footwell. Almost have to lay in the floor ti get my arm up there. 1st Gen tachs tend to burn through their wiring coils, it was just crummy copper windings. I replaced mine with a tach from a 90's Tracer, blends in pretty well actually.

    2. As mentioned, oil on the timing cover means a bad front crank and pump cover seal. Usually if the front is leaking the back is too, sorry.

    3. Did you check the valve timing? The belt could have jumped a tooth, also check ignition timing. Blocked converter...air metering problem...lots of possibilities...
  5. UnexplodedCow

    UnexplodedCow FEOA Member

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    I'll vote that the rear main is probably leaking, too, as it's a much larger seal. It may just be wear, or it could be crank walk causing it...just take the oil pan off and check bearing tolerances, that'll give you the whole story on why the seal would leak.
  6. Wingnut

    Wingnut Guest

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    No gnu's is good gnu's, eh?
    On a positive side it doesn't look like the tach is going to be too much of a problem.
    However, crank and pump cover seal's sound like a p.i.t.a.!
    How long can you let something like that go before it becomes a problem? I guess it depends on how bad the leak is eh? Just that here in Wyoming it's starting to get a little cold and I don't know if I want to get into a job of that size with the weather turning if I can put it off till spring.
    Since I have an '87 I'm not sure I have a ECU that would spit out any error codes.
    If I jumped a tooth wouldn't that make the engine run noticeably bad? I'm not missing and I'm not hearing any valve/lifter slap.
    I didn't think about the converter! Could be that simple.
    I'll do some checking and get back to this post.
    Thanks!
  7. UnexplodedCow

    UnexplodedCow FEOA Member

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    Any year Escort with TFI will spit out error codes. If you jumped a timing tooth the car would still run pretty smoothly, but it would have bad low end power (1500 rpm and lower) since the cam timing would be 4 degrees retarded.
    It's not a PITA to replace if you're familiar with the car, and have the tools. The rear main is more of a problem since removing the transaxle and flywheel are mandatory. You won't hear any valve/lifter slap since the lifters are hydraulic, and changing the cam phasing only changes the powercurve of the engine, or when the lifters move, not how far they move. The only noise you'll likely hear is a lifter "tick" if the lifter fails to pump up on startup.

    Unless the ignition timing has been touched, it's probably in time. Base timing will be in the 8 or 10 BTDC area...it is computer controlled, however, so the ECU can advance or retard the timing itself.

    If the leak is causing you to put a quart of oil in every 100 miles, I would then worry about it. Otherwise, let it go until spring. Or, get a set of insulated coveralls, and be a badass.

    The catalytic converter probably won't be the cause of the issues entirely, although it could be blocked and restricting (restrictive anyway).
  8. 1lowscort

    1lowscort FEOA Member

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    Any more pictures from different angles? That looks so effing amazing!
  9. SVTADAM

    SVTADAM New Member

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    That is cool. I replaced my coolant gauge with an autometer volt guage. It was pretty trick.
  10. jfarcas

    jfarcas FEOA Member

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    Yeah, I second that. SWEET mod!

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