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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thought that I´d post a message and see what happens.

First off, I don´t think that I´ve introduced myself in any manner yet since I´ve signed on at FEOA. :-o So here´s the short and sweet.

My name is Matt Tamas, and I live in Brantford Ontario Canada. I recently inhereted a 94 LX 5 door, 1.9 auto from my dad to drive back and forth to shool. As of now it has just over 208 000 Km on it. That´s on the stock engine and tranny, NO REBUILDS :cool: , but NO MODS :-[ - yet :-o

As part of having an all orignal escort in Canada, I have experienced a very commom problem with escorts in northern climates. My hood has rusted out. :-Y I´ve repainted it three times already, but it rusts from the inside of the front seam out. This became obvious when looking at the cross section of the hood through the new hole that has rusted its way through the front edge.

When I saw the post about hoods for another owner, I popped over to ZXtuner to check out the carbon fibre hoods. To my surprise, they had free shipping. Even more surprising was that they could only ship it to the nearest border crossing. That officially ended that. I also know that Spydar Auto, has some cool looking hoods, but I don´t know if I want one of those just yet.

My question is, short of getting another less rusted hood from a wrecker, or a new hood from the dealer, what else is out there for escort hoods?

Or

Is there any other way of fixing my hood, that DOES NOT involve just chucking some bondo into it and painting it. I now officially know that doesn´t work very long.

Any help, or attempts of help are appreciated. :p

Matt :cool:
 

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It all depend how much you want to spend.
New hood you are looking at $700.
And I only sell mine for >$100.
Like a new car and used car all depend on how you want to spend.
:-D
 

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Depending on how much you want to spend, and how much time you have on your hands, there are ways to keep your stock hood and keep it rust free. first and foremost you´d want to fix the rust that might already be there, then bondo it, sand, primer, etc. take it off your car and seal everyplace that salt, grime and water get into, primer the entire hood and then paint it. if you want to, you can put a car bra on it, the only problem with those is that they tend to trap dirt and crap against your hood which will cause the paint to chip and rust to start to form.
 

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Just a thought - have a look at page 4 car showcase - MadBrad - he has some kind of strip on the front of his bonnet that looks ok and might do until you decide how much loot you want to shell out. Rust is a big problem in the UK but, surprisingly, my only problem is with the rear wheel arches that trap mud and are tricky to clean out. :)
 

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foxy is referring to the leather hood bra. a good cover up, but not quite protection from what´s already happening. i wanted to get one awhile ago, but i can´t find one in any store. the dealer will just make me pay through the 455...they´re about $30 im guessing
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanx guys, but I´ve already got a bra on there. That´s why I don´t feel so bad about it, because no one can see it yet. If you´re looking for one juggernaut, I got mine for $32 CDN at Walmart. I know for a fact Regina should have a Walmart. If Yorkton has one, Regina should! It´s breathable vynil, but it stands up really well. I left mine on through the winter, and it still looks new!

Thanx.

Matt :cool:
 

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Just come look at the estevan wal mart... it kicks the shit out of all the rest. Thats why Estevan is the power capital... I mean uhhh, nevermind. ;-)
 

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Jugg, foxy(thanx for the plug) is NOT referring to a leather or vinyl hood bra. What is on my hood in that pic is a rubber stick-on bodyside moulding. It was there when I bought the car, and yes, it was there to hide the rust. I eventually got a new hood. Matt, it is the only way to fix it. I got a brand new aftermarket hood from a local body parts supplier for $99 CDN. NOT 700. It came flat black and I prepped and primed and painted it red with spray bombs. It was only a temporary paint coat until I could get a real body job done on the car. That´s not gonna happen anymore, but anyway I also sprayed rust check in th eseams and do so once a year. I suggest you go this route.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I´d love to know where you got that hood for $99. I´d even drive down the street to Pickering to get it myself :-o By the way, how much did you pay to have yours painted, and where did you have it done?

Matt :cool:
 

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<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%>[TR][TD]Quote:

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17-03-2003 at 10:13, fixitmattman wrote:
Been there, done that :-[

Thanx

Matt
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Hate to be blunt, but if you actually DID do it right, it wouldn´t still be rusting out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If sanding my hood to bare metal, applying $60 CDN / bottle Loctite rust destroyer, following Loctites instructions to the tee, bondo to the 9´s, cleaning the surface with acetone, priming, then painting isn´t right, then what is? Through the hole in my hood, it is quite obvious that it rusts from the inside out. :-Y

No matter what you do to the SURFACE, it will STILL RUST because it´s rusting FROM THE INSIDE OUT :-|

By the way, the paint that still remains on the hood is in perfect condition.

Matt :cool:
 

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Matt, I will go and figure out where it was and the name of it and get back to you. It was just some little place in Ajax that sells aftermarket body parts, and I´m sure any other such place would have a competitive price. As for painting, I did it myself with spray bombs but you can install it and then go get a paint job on the car if you want. I kind of like the inside being black. James, I believe that any rusted steel will rust again no matter what steps you take and nomatter how much you pay for a rust repair. If the panel has rust that goes through the whole thickness of the steel, you cannot restore that steel to unrusted condition. No reputable bodyshop even guarantees for not re-rusting. They do take care of you for a year or so just to be of good repute, but they will tell you it WILL rust again. In my case I´m talking about the rear wheel openings, and I´ve had $3000+ estimates to do my body and paint, and that is what they told me. Iron oxide is the stable state for iron, unless there´s no oxygen present. That is why my other car is a Saturn.
 

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I can get OE Aftermarket hoods for a really good price....I just have to dig through my papers here.

(time passes)

Yeah...$98.67 Cdn. + Tax
They come black PPG coated so they won´t rust. You just have to scuff sand and paint.
 

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whats that in US? I want something aftermarket, yet still look OEM style.
Can you get some pictures of em? More importantly, can you ship to the US??? :-o
 

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just a note from my own experience about rust . IT will come back ! I had a series of Mopars many years ago that were rust buckets . ran great , but were rust buckets . I was constantly working on them . later I tried to stave off rust on a real nice little 81 T bird NSL even my Crown Victoria which I do miss for being such a comfortable ride was just beginning to rust. theres not much you can do once it gets started except fight it with every means at your disposal . My Escort has been rust proofed and will recieve its yearly reproofing as long as I can afford to keep doing it . Buteven that is no guarantee that my car won`t rust from somewhere that the rustproofing doesn`t reach . just my 2 cents worth NSL = no such luck
 

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<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%>[TR][TD]Quote:

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17-03-2003 at 18:35, MadBrad wrote:
It came flat black and I prepped and primed and painted it red with spray bombs. It was only a temporary paint coat until I could get a real body job done on the car. That´s not gonna happen anymore, but anyway I also sprayed rust check in th eseams and do so once a year. I suggest you go this route.
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I left a comment in your showcase asking about your paint finish - now I have the answer. Hope you don´t think I was being rude about your car - just wondering. :)
 
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