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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright I have a few days before I can take car back to dealer, so thought I would see what you guys have to say. I have a 91 EGT manual with 74K on it, took it to local dealer to have a hesitation problem checked. When accelerating after starting it bogs down for a few seconds, gas pedal does nothing then all of a sudden everthing is back to normal and it doesnt happen again. Dealer found no cause for this but de-carboned the TB in the process and that was it. Before I took it in idle was around 1000, now it is anywhere from 1200-1500 and the hesitation problem still exists. Any ideas?? I am taking it back to dealer Monday and would like to have some ammunition. Thanks, Chris.
 

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Hesitation in your idle can be caused by a MULTITUDE of things. It's very hard to troubleshoot.

The two most common causes of hesitation are:

1. You're running a mixture that's too rich (which can be caused by a dead 02 sensor)
2. Your timing isn't advanced enough.


However, from the sound of it, if he cleaned out your throttle body with TB cleaner, he also got some in the IAC (idle air control valve), which is located right underneath the throttle body. This is a very expensive part. It's somehting rediculous like 200 bucks. Spraying TB cleaner in it can cure up the problem temporarily, but it hardly ever "fixes" it.

Before you start throwing TB cleaner all over your car though, check the diagnostic (it's near the driver's side hood hinge in a little black box) and see if it's throwing any codes.

good luck!
 

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Don't take you car to the dealer (or any other "mechanic"). All they will do is change out parts, essentially taking guesses at your expense. Personally, I don't replace parts unless I can prove them bad, and often things like a MAF sensor can be cleaned. A mechanic will never do that!

If I were you I'd check for vacuum leaks (your bound to have a few with a car that old). When I say check for vacuum leaks, I'm not just referring to broken vacuum lines, I'm also referring to any device that uses vacuum! A hand held vacuum pump and a vacuum gauge is what I use. Also check for air leaks. Check the TPS with a voltmeter. Check your EGR valve with a handheld vacuum pump and gauge. Clean your MAF sensor. Also check the computer for codes but don't be suprized when there aren't any.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the advice! High idle fixed, don't ask!! Hesitation/sputtering still ongoing. After starting to drive down the road the car sputters for approx 3-5 seconds. Press the pedal and nothing happens, then something? kicks in and car acts normal and this issue does not come back until car is shut off and started again. Very intermittent problem. Any ideas?? Thanks.
 

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I think NAPA wants about $150 for an EGT IAC and less than $50 for a 1.9L engine.

However, having said this, I think there is the potential to make an IAC last forever if you can clean it properly. On my 1985 (1.6L) EGT the IAC was something that you could take apart and clean properly. It was screwed togather and you could separate the solenoid part from the mechanical part and clean it from the inside. On the newer Escorts (like my 1995LX) you can not do this as it seems to be one piece crimped togather. The only thing I can think of is to carefully soak the mechanical side of IAC in something overnight and dry it out and see if that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Holy crap!! Try $360, atleast thats what the local NAPA told me. Thats more than 1/4 that I paid for the whole car!! Anyway it is the type that does not come apart. Is there any way to test it?
 

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when's the last time u replaced the distributor/plugs/plug wires? They can cause a lot of hesitation. I'm not sure if your definition of hesistation is the same as mine...but thats what mine was. Mine would take about 2 or so seconds after i punched the pedal for it to actually rap out. And on the highway if i punched gas i would get sputter feeling. Mine was caused by old distributor/plugs/plug wires. Replaced them and everything was fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I replaced all those shortly after I purchased it. Defenetely helped how it ran because I think they were the originals. My hesitation only happens shortly after it is started. Doesnt seem to matter how long it sits, temperature or gear you are in. Start to accelerate and it spits and sputters for a few seconds, can mash the pedal to the floor and same thing. Then all of a sudden something?? changes, car kicks in and it doesnt happen again until it is shut off. Other than this the car runs excellent.

P.S. Does anyone know where to get the underhood insulation?? Other than a junkyard. The previous owner oil soaked the one that is in it.
 

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92gt5spd said:
when's the last time u replaced the distributor/plugs/plug wires? They can cause a lot of hesitation. I'm not sure if your definition of hesistation is the same as mine...but thats what mine was. Mine would take about 2 or so seconds after i punched the pedal for it to actually rap out. And on the highway if i punched gas i would get sputter feeling. Mine was caused by old distributor/plugs/plug wires. Replaced them and everything was fine.
How about the Ignition coil? If I remember right, it cost me about 70 bucks. After I replaced that, the idle on my 92 GT was smooth as silk.
 

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forgot about htat....also might wanna check the Ignition module. THose are also around 70 bucks, but its the chip that regulates something w/ spark...so its needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Coil has been replaced. Have not checked into ingnition module thouogh. Also today when starting it acted like it was only running on three cylinders. Shut it off tried again and same thing, third start was normal and nothing since. My so called mechanic neighbor says to change fuel, probably had a clogged injector. Might of believed that one if the fuel system wasnt just cleaned by him. Anyone live in the Phoenix area that can help me diagnose this thing??
 

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Swap out the plug wires again and see if that fixes it. I know it sounds stupid but I know 5 or more people that have had problems with them.
 

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same

i may not be the best or good on escorts but hopefully this will work on your problem..., hesitation...that happened to me right after my pulley was loose and made a hell mess w/ my fuel injection..anyway after i finished that problem, i had the hsesitation that even if you mash the gas it don't make any diff....my solution was when i chenged my cat..(high flow one of course(catco 2.5")), and if it still persists try looking at your air filter that might even be one of the causes(dirty clogged) or try resetting your computer(it might be throowing the old codes that was stored) by removing the neg cable on your batt. and wait for 15 mins...if it still doesn't work try having it diagnosed(will at least point you to a certain direction to where to start)...hopefully this helps.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for all the ideas!! What is the proper way to check the TPS?? Also is there a way to check the IAC?? Thanks.
 

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same

for the iac mostly you will notice if the iac is going bad is when the rpm/tach is surging(i.e. up to 5k then going down to .5k) for the tps..hmmmm.....better get your car to the nearest autozone and have it diagnosed(its for free anyway)...good luck....
 

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CCK91EGT said:
Thanks for the advice! High idle fixed, don't ask!! Hesitation/sputtering still ongoing. After starting to drive down the road the car sputters for approx 3-5 seconds. Press the pedal and nothing happens, then something? kicks in and car acts normal and this issue does not come back until car is shut off and started again. Very intermittent problem. Any ideas?? Thanks.
Yep my 92 GT did that same thing too...I never figured out the problem, never got a CEL either.

It's still doing it to Brian, Maybe the o2 sensor needs to be replaced.
 

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Maybe it's not related at all, but I had the EXACT same problem when my belt blew. When they changed it they didn't put the good timing and it did exacly what you are saying...
 
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