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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, in the process of going turbo I ran into a little problem...I can´t get the wastegate below 8psi. The OEM wastegate on the IHI isn´t adjustable, so with some help from Orlando, I found a way to actually "shim" open the wastegate a little to prevent overboost. However, this would allow KILLER Turbo Lag and would just not be pushing the scort to the fullest.

so I came up with a pretty good engineering soln. I´m actually going to try to rig it up today around lunch time or tomorrow and test it on Sunday. I´ll let you know how it works, but here´s a link of a simple sketch I made of it so you can see how it works.

http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/bladeerau/vwp?.dir=/New+Escort+Pix&.dnm=betterwastegateshot.jpg&.src=bc&.view=l&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/bladeerau/lst%3f%26.dir=/New%2bEscort%2bPix%26.src=bc%26.view=l
 

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Blade, how much boost are you running currently? I want to try to get double the stock power out of my scort when i turbo it. But i don´t know how much boost i can safely run, even after i rebuild the engine. Hopefully i can get up to 254 hp just by that, and then i want to put a NOS system on it. but first i must replace the shocks, brakes and rotors.

Red 92 EGT
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
At the moment...no boost
working on getting it in the car. Tomorrow is the big day though. Tapin´ the pan, finding the fittings for the oil and coolant, shimin´ the wastegate, and hopefully getting the FMIC in and the piping on (which was finished today
)

Okay, I´ve been pushing the math around for quite awhile. I dont know where the physical limitation is, but:
with a bore of 3.35 a stroke of 3.37, compression ratio of 9.0:1 and a motor that´s about 85% efficient, a turbo that´s 65% efficient, an intercooler that´s 75% efficient and using 7000rpm´s as a check point, its possible to produce about 274HP at the flywheel with our motor. From what I´ve learned the motor is actually quite good at holding about 300HP, so its realistic. Do, realize that´s on 14psi of boost.
To run 14psi you would need your fuel system to be absolutely trick and tuned, timing control to give up to 20 degrees of retard (possibly) and maybe even a little water cooling.

anyhow, gotta run ....good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The BPT and BPD are the same ? Aren´t they...I only thought the GTR motor was different.

Anyhow, Denis I already emailed Orlando about this but I need some help ASAP.

Where do I hook the FMU up to? How do I know if it works or not ?

245 horse isn´t bad at all, and realize that´s at the wheel, so me pushing a pencil and getting 269 at the fly is about right. I´m not really worried. My next performance upgrade is going INSANE. My friend has just about everything from a flowbench to shops that have made custom everything for him. He was looking at the motor today and wants me to buy another motor, stroke it to 2.6L, run about 8.0:1 compression and run about 20psi through it. He´s pretty convinced the if everything is built right and we can notch the back of the pistons so they dont interfere with the crank, we can build a BP to about 600hp.

We found a 10sec Neon with a totally stock drivetrain....How you ask, he doesn´t dump the clutch. So, we´re just going to go until the car cant take it anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
With the oil pan off we were able to look at the rods, bottom of the pistons and of course the crank. My friend Rob is sure he can get the companies that helped him make his 8sec chevelle make rods, pistons, a crank and such for us. But he´s new to seeing the insides of the little Mazda BP motor. He was shocked to find it already had forged crank and rods.

Yeah, a 4cyl stroked. It would be awesome. If anyone has an extra head laying around let me know. "I´m looking for head." Guess that doesn´t sound right, but you know what I mean. Need to get it on the flow bench and start looking for titanium springs and valves and such.

_________________

Jason Blade
93´ Escort GT (Special SLO model)

[ Edited by TheBlade On Date 09-24-2002 ]
 

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so with that design you´ve made a mechanical check valve, the drawback is, that the spring has a specific resistance, but the heat soak from the turbo will change that over time and unless that spring is some fairly exotix metal it´s going to loose it´s spring in a few weeks if not sooner. Thier are two much better ways to handle this situation. An adjustable pilot valve that is adjustable from inside the car or a ball valve that is placed inline with the wastegate. both have been tested and proven to be more effective then some of the high end apexi and HKS control valve. Turo XS makes one or their are a few places online that make them for @ $60. beyond that we are working on a poppet valve that is even better then the ball valve system and can be setup in a dual mode.
 

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actualy they alow you to go both ways, open it up and you have a controlled release with out the boost spiking and remember what I said about that spring, unless it´s some exotic metal that spring will be shot in days to weeks and when that turbo get´s up to temp it´s going to be almost useless.
 
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