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Nothing is wrong wit it but my car now has 111k km on it now. Does the 1.9l on the LX have non-interference heads?

When my timming belt goes will the valves kiss the head?

I am wondering because I drive my car pretty good and I think it might be a good idea to change the timming belt while it's still running.

X
 

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Well, I've heard it both ways. When my timing belt blew, nothing else got hurt, so I'd say non-interference, unless I just got lucky somehow.

Regardless of whether or not it's a non-interference engine, I'd replace the timing belt if I were you, mine went at about 111,000 - 115,000 miles, and you know how things like that happen at the most in-oportune times.
 

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I didn't change mine until about 198 000km. I would go for it though. The belts are only about $30 CDN, and it will take about an hour and a half to install (half of that to remove all of the splash guards from around the wheel well. For $30 it would save you a lot of hassle compared to if it broke on you while driving. You will also notice a bit more pep with a new belt.

Good Luck :D

Matt 8)
 

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After hearing horror stories about it being a hard replacement, it's refreshing to hear you say an hour and a half. I was going to wait until I could afford to rebuild a head and throw it on there while doing the timing belt.. but.. if it's that easy.. why put it off?

Anyone know if any hi-performance belts are made for the 1.9L CVH? I've heard of a company that makes belts for hondas that don't stretch as much at high RPMs.
 

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By far the most annoying and time consuming part was removing the splash guards on the inside of the wheel well. Ford thought it would be a good idea to use 6mm bolts. The only problem is most of them are rusted solid, and when you go to take them off you strip the head off. If you take your time, use a lot of penetrating oil and lightly tap the end of the ratchet, that should break most of them free. Just be sure to have a set of screw extractors and some extra hardware around. Once you get around this hurtle it's fairly straight forward. You will also need a floor jack to support the oil pan as you will need to remove the left engine mount. Finally, you will need either an impact wrench, or a strap wrench. The impact wrench and socket will easily remove the nut on the main drive pully. If you don't have an impact, use the strap wrench to hold the pulley while you use a normal socket and wratchet. I recommend a Haynes or similar manual for this as it aids in identifying the correct timing marks.

If you need more detail let me know and I'll give you the step by step.

Hope that helps 8O

Matt 8)
 

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fixitmattman said:
Ford thought it would be a good idea to use 6mm bolts. The only problem is most of them are rusted solid, and when you go to take them off you strip the head off.
amen. Those things are such a huge pain in the ass.
 

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One of my many motivations for becoming an engineer, to rid the world of stupid BS like 6mm bolts. Everyone knows that the 4mm's are beter, they shear every time. :lol:

So many things to do, so little time :roll:

Matt 8)
 
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