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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Evening!

Long time viewer first time poster...

I'm working to replace the outer tie rods, as my driver side wheel has about 3/8" of play left to right and the tie rod is roasted.

I have already popped it out of the spindle, that was easy.

I tried to find pictures and videos on YouTube, but everyone 'oddly' cuts out the part of breaking the jam nut loose and unscrewing the tie rod.

Can you please guide me as to which direction I need to go to break the jam nut loose so I can try to start unscrewing it? Seems like a 16mm Jam Nut as far as wrench size.

Any tips or 'harbor freight cheapy' tools that might make this easier?

Thank you!

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Vehicle brake Tread
 

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To the right, it's a normally threaded nut.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So we're looking at it from the wrong side technically. Loosening it by turning it right is actually lefty loosey if you had it turned around which would be standard is what you're saying?

Any tips on this job? Once the jam nut is knocked loose the tie rod should unscrew somewhat easily?

Tonight all I did was get it jacked up, swap the worn out endlink and break it loose from the knuckle. Tomorrow morning/afternoon is the real job of trying to replace the tierod.

Thank you for anyone who wants to provide input. Maybe I will actually make a video that shows the full process.
 

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So we're looking at it from the wrong side technically. Loosening it by turning it right is actually lefty loosey if you had it turned around which would be standard is what you're saying?
Yes, that is correct.
Any tips on this job? Once the jam nut is knocked loose the tie rod should unscrew somewhat easily?
Yes, it should provided rust hasn't crept into the threads. I've found that it's actually easier to break the nut loose before you pop the tierod out of the knucke. You should also get an alignment after all of the suspension work is done
 

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Tie rod should come off easily once the lock nut is loose. I did this once before and it was pretty easy.

Best to loosen the lock nut while the old tie rod end is still in the knuckle. You could always just put it back in and not tighten it all of the way since it doesn't matter if it gets damaged because it is getting replaced.

Sometimes people say to count the turns as you take it off so that the new one can be put on in basically the same place. But that means that the replacement has to be the same size as the one getting replaced. That was not true when I did it so I took a measurement of the distance to the outside of the tie rod end and used that. I was fairly close. You are going to have to get an alignment anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update: Both Tie Rods and Sway Bar EndLinks Replaced !!

Will need a minor alignment adjustment as @denisond3 mentioned, but it needed a new set of tires anyways so we're going to do both at the same time.

Front end feels like its ready to take on a road course now compared to how its been driving the past few weeks.

For anyone who is going to do this job and has stubborn jam nuts, Harbor Freight has 'the answer' for only $14.99.

7PC MM CROWFT FLARE NUT W
SKU 68999

$14.99

Using a 17mm CrowFoot style wrench head attached to a good strong 3/8" Ratchet ( We used one that had the ability to telescropt out the 13" to act as a break bar ) these broke loose Easily. Don't use something like vice grips and destroy the jam nut.

Once the jam nuts are loose, take a measurement a suggested from a static location so that the new replacements are as close as possible to where they were last set so that it is drivable to get an alignment.

Don't be lazy! Do both sides. We found that our drive side was ready to fall off... literally had about a 1/2" of play, but once we got to the passenger side, it also had play ( Not nearly as bad, but it was worn out and the knuckle could shift some ) - I got both tie rods, endlinks, and lower balljoints from Detroit Axle on eBay for only like $44 ShIPPED! So Don't be lazy! Fix it all up at the same time!

Thank you to those who provided input. I hope my experience makes it easier for the next person.

Shine_Dad!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
BTW: Our vehicle is a 1999 Ford Ecort ZX2 ' Cool Coupe ' - Automatic Transmission - Came with Factory Spoiler but no power locks or windows. Has power steering and air conditioning.

Some sort of 'electric blue' factory color that is really nice... almost matches the FEOA color. We've had the car for 5 years now, bought it from an old lady with only 82,000 miles.

I would suggest that you do the balljoints at the same time and get everything aligned at once. I skipped the balljoints because I had to have the car on the road with no questions by the end of the weekend and we had no up/down play in the knuckles(wheels) on either side. Balljoints and their rubber boot still in tact.
 
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