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Hello from new guy (long)

1146 Views 2 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  TheBlade
Hi and thanks for this forum....Info on EGT´s is hard to find! Especially forced induction...glad to have a place with people experience!

Since I´m here, I wanted to share some of my investigations and hopefull my (limited) knowledge....followed by a question for the real experts.

Some have questions about the turbo process. Your version is your art; you need to educate yourself to find your niche. Maybe you don´t want to spend $1,000. Maybe you have the $4k+ to buy a kit and just bolt it in.
Here´s my $.02, hopefully it will help out those new to anything turbo. PLEASE correct me if you know better (you probably do!).
I have found many junk yards will sell a turbo (IHI VJ off a volvo with IC) and manifold for as little as $100 that will bolt onto your egt (1.8´s that is). Many would provide 30 days to give it back, even...
My experience with turbo´s was learned on a Tbird Turbocoupe.... But for those that have never owned a turbo, maybe some general glossary definitions of turbo componets would be nice. If you know what it does, you know why you need it. If I may, I´ll offer what I think will work for cheap in our EGT´s:
BOV: Keeps air/pressure from slapping back to the turbine when you let off the gas and the throttle plate slaps shut forcing air backwards....you CAN BREAK a turbine with out this (don´t ask how I know). Gotta have: fish tank valve works ok.

Timing controller: a function provided by the computer in a turbo car...you need to buy one to control timing at various boost levels or you get pre-ignition or detonation, especially without an intercooler. High boost causes a retard in timing to keep you from burning a hole in your piston or blowing a head gasket. Maybe not necessary if you are only running a few lbs, and have a good ear for ping/knock (VERY good ear) and can time your engine accordingly (usually backing off stock values). Turbo cars use a "knock sensor" that listens for the beginnings of pinging and then backs off timing. Without this you have to assume that you will always get a ping at certain conditions.

Adjustable Fuel Pressure: Lets you load as much pressure to the injector, so when it does fire, more gas comes out at the same time. Lean conditions cause pinging (see above) and leads quickly to piston melting....Not over time, but NOW. My brother kicked down his adjustable pressure regulator by only 10lbs and MELTED a piston in just one 1/4 mile run.
Don´t forget: Gas is a coolant too! ***Must have a higher pressure than stock fuel pump****.
Walbro 355´s are popular. Followed by RX-7 injectors (330cc??)

Last, your wastegate needs some fooling to keep the turbo from making boost while it spins down...Imagine you just raced someone for pole position at the next red light, if your wastegate isn´t set properly to allow exhaust to not hit the impeller when boost is acheived, you will boost beyond control when your foot is on the floor... A turbocoupe friend had a broken spring on his wastegate during a 1/4 mile run, pegged his guage at 25lbs and broke a rod. You can spend $$$ on fancy controllers, or some different tension springs from Home Depot will get you there with some trial and error. Watch that guage while you trial...or you have error!

Intercooler: Compressed air get´s hot. Hot air is not dense. Hot air causes pinging. See above for what pinging does. An intercooler is just a radiator for air. Anything over 5lbs and an intercooler should be a must.

IMHO (read MY OPINION) this is all you need for bare bones boosting...For the guy who just wanted a few pounds for street enhancement...get a manifold and turbo, car is stock at 4lbs with base timing at 6-8 degrees (in stead of 10) will get you what you want. My estimated cost: approx $500 if you go the JC Whitney mandrel bend route for intake.

To get to 10lbs, I highly reccommend a timing controller and the above aftermarket things (fuel related)......
Now, here´s my question: The cam´s on these engines have considerable overlap. Boost hates overlap (runs lean, no)....Has anyone had a problem boosting with stock cams? Is there any knowledge of what boost level breaks rods? These engines have the oil injection from the GTX version; but are the rods lighter than the GTX? What´s the max boost you have heard about?

I hope to be boosting soon, and plan to document my work in hopes of helping others get there too.....There´s nothing more fun than frying some rice in a sleeper!

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welcome to the site and thanks for that info bout the turbos! great stuff! hopefully you and anyone else that knows bout that stuff can help peeps out.
I´m actually in the process of boosting my little EGT 1.8L.

*I picked up the IHI VJ-20, manifold and downpipe for 477.00.
*I´m using a Vortech FMU 12:1 calibration
*Manually retarding my timing a few degrees until I can get some timing control.
*TurboXs type H RFL Bov (sounds awesome in my friends 3000GT until it goes in the EGT)
*88´ Chrysler Conquest TSi Intercooler

The plan is to run about 5 or 6lbs, until I get a new fuel pump, the 460cc (89-91 RX7 non turbo high impedance ´saturated´) injectors and a fuel computer to prevent flooding at idle. And of course get an MSD BTM box to retard under boost. Once all that is done I think I´m going to try to push up to 12lbs on 104octane racing blue.

I know Orlando in FL has a turbo´d EGT and runs about 12lbs (I think). And if I remember right has been doing it for awhile.

Likewise there´s Denis Gagnon. His set up is just sick! And with the motor mod´d up quite well its pushing some serious weight.

Denis told me the GTX´s run 8lbs stock, most push up to 12lbs once they get a chip that gets rid of the nasty hole in the fuel map at 10lbs.

Anyhow, welcome to the site.
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