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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I have the 86 down while I'm doing a bunch of stuff including grinding, fiberglassing, and filling the rust-through at the rain rails. I also decided to try and pull out and repair the old vinyl headliner, but it's worse off than I thought. Looks like I'll need a yard or two of new headliner. What have you guys used to replace this stuff? I see a bunch of cheap vinyl on ebay, and I assume anything will work. Thoughts?
 

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I noticed on my project 87 gt that the vinyl headliner in it has some seams pulling apart. I don't like the vinyl anyway, so I want to use another type of material. I did a search on the web and found a site that sells material for automotive use. I can't remember what the site was, but the prices I didn't think were bad, surprisingly. Up to around 18 dollars for something fancier than vinyl. When I find it again, I'll post the link.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK, the rough filling and sanding is finished on the roof. What I would like to do now is re-fill the drains over the thin layers of fiberglass and bondo. Preferably with a semi-liquid that will be waterproof. Caulk will be too messy, windshield adhesive might work, but I'm thinking about just mixing up another batch of marine resin and brushing it into the rail over the bondo. I wonder will it attack it though? What would you do, marsh?

 

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WJC said:
OK, the rough filling and sanding is finished on the roof. What I would like to do now is re-fill the drains over the thin layers of fiberglass and bondo. Preferably with a semi-liquid that will be waterproof. Caulk will be too messy, windshield adhesive might work, but I'm thinking about just mixing up another batch of marine resin and brushing it into the rail over the bondo. I wonder will it attack it though? What would you do, marsh?

I am a little confused at what you're trying to accomplish. From what I think, you had some rust along the cutter and the seam sealer was cracked. So far is that right? So you removed the cracked seam sealer and applied body filler over the cutter. Now you want something to appliy over the filler to make it waterproof. Correct?

There is a flowable seam sealer made for applications such as this. I would dig out the bondo that's down in the cutter. What filler that needs to be there to cover up the rust pits can stay, hopefully you removed ALL OF THE RUST prior to the bondo. Once the cutter is clean, use a corrosion resistance primer. Once the primer dries, tape off the cutter where you want to seam seal. Flowable seam sealer, well, flows really well and would tend to get messy from time to time. Start off with a little and add as you need.Once the sealer cures, primer over top. In lieu of flowable seam sealer you can get a brushable seam sealer. Same prep, but it won't level itself like the flowable, so it won't look as nice. Flowable is a typically a two part system that would require a special dispensing gun. Where as the brushable comes in a can or toothpaste tube ready to use.

I would use the flowable because I have access to the gun. Brushable is fine though to use.
 

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WJC said:
Oh and is this headliner priced by the yard? It just says 54" wide in the description.

http://trimstore.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?S ... Code=VINYH

I guess 2 square yards of this stuff is what I need.
You would need to order by how many yards you want. There is a comment somewhere on the site on ordering by the yard, not by the inches as the width is. ex: 2 yards by 54 inches, not 72 inches by 54 inches, you would get 72 yards of material 54 inches wide
 

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About 50 bucks for the gun and about 30 for the sealer. Not much different from this gun and a regular chaulking gun (you know, the $1.99 ones from Lowes). Just the special one has two plungers. I think the brushable stuff would be around 10 for either can or tube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
marshpoprock said:
WJC said:
I am a little confused at what you're trying to accomplish. From what I think, you had some rust along the cutter and the seam sealer was cracked. So far is that right? So you removed the cracked seam sealer and applied body filler over the cutter. Now you want something to appliy over the filler to make it waterproof. Correct?
Basically the edge of the roof had completely rusted through in a number of spots, it was much worse than I thought. I cut and ground as much out as I could, then epoxied and fiberglassed over all the open sores. And added a strip of fiberglass and a thin layer of epoxy over the bottom of the gutters. Then filled in a little bondo in the gutters just for shape. But I want something hard and impenetrable over the bondo before I paint it. I'll look around for some seam selaer tomorrow. Would Advnace carry it?
 

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marshpoprock said:
About 50 bucks for the gun and about 30 for the sealer. Not much different from this gun and a regular chaulking gun (you know, the $1.99 ones from Lowes). Just the special one has two plungers. I think the brushable stuff would be around 10 for either can or tube.
Gotcha...and here I thought it was going to be expensive, that's affordable if I'm going to be doing my own leak fixes...now I have something else to save up for :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well MFing bleepity blank...I just posted a long deal about my headliner screwup etc and wouldn't you know the page crashed as I was posting it. One of those days.

Long story short, I botched up the headliner at the back window by cutting it too short, and need some advice about how to do it right this time. Sewing the loops back onto the new headliner took a nightmarishly long time and I don't think I can do it again without putting a needle through my eye. So I'm thinking about ditching the metal rods and just glueing it up this time.

The DAP upholstry adhesive and double sided duct tape worked pretty well, and I used new carpet padding right on the roof to replace the old rotted insulation. But I wonder if maybe I should cut pressboard and screw it to the structural bridges, and then glue the headliner to that?

I'll take pretty much any advice at this point from anyone who has done one of these little monsters. George is getting frustrated!.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
marshpoprock said:
WJC said:
But I wonder if maybe I should cut pressboard and screw it to the structural bridges, and then glue the headliner to that?
Try finding a later model that has the fabric headliner. Remove the fabric and use the cardboard material.
Hmmm...what year did they switch over?
 
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