FEOA Forums banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to start the process of replacing the head assembly on my 1999 Escort wagon. Of course it has the 2.0 SPI engine.

First question is how long should this job take? I am hoping I can teardown and prep tonight and re-assemble tomorrow night. I figure I can spend about 6 hours per night. Think that is enough time. I have a heated shop with all the air tools so I will not be fighting the weather.
I am also going to replace the oil pump gasket, drive belt and timing belt while I have everything appart.

Secondly, is it easier to remove the exhaust and intake assemblies and just remove the head from the car, or should I remove head with the intake and exhaust assemblies attached and then remove once head is out of car? Seems like the intake bolts will be a bear to get to while in the car.

Is there any surprises that I should expect? I have the rebuild head from Cylinder Heads International sitting on the workbench, a head gasket kit that includes everything needed including new bolts.

Will I have to adjust the valves once the head is installed? I am thinking that they should be preset from the manufacture but I am not sure.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8,379 Posts
I have not ripped apart an SPI personally (there are people on this board who have), but here's some response for what it's worth...

Q1 First question is how long should this job take?
A1 I think you've allowed yourself ample time, especially since you have a replacement head ready to go. You might chose to do the water pump while you're at it.

Q2 Secondly, is it easier to remove the exhaust and intake assemblies and just remove the head from the car...?
A2 I can't imagine that the exhaust/intake manifold bolts on the SPI are any more difficult to get off than the SEFI and they are not difficult. It will be much easier to remove the head WITHOUT the manifolds attached (cumbersome).

Q3 Is there any surprises that I should expect?
A3 I don't think so. The other boys may provide better guidance. It sounds like you know what you're doing.

Q4 Will I have to adjust the valves once the head is installed? I am thinking that they should be preset from the manufacture but I am not sure.
A4 The head you bought should have the cam and valves all done right. Just get the crank and cam lined up properly when you install. It will be obvious. I trust you're using new head bolts.

Good luck.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
8,227 Posts
Removing the Exshaust manifold is'nt to hard while the head is still in the car. Just the EGR kinda get's in the way a little.

But it's a lot easyer to leave the intake manifold on the head while you pull it, then once the head is out of the car remove the intake manifold and put in some new gaskets. And clean out the EGR system.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
8,227 Posts
Mach_foster said:
Is there a trick to getting the fuel line disconnected? Will I need a special tool?
No and Yes.

You'll need a tool, it's just a simple cheap little thing that you push up into the connections to release the spring that's holding it togehter.
Any parts store should know what you need.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
712 Posts
you dont need to remove the fuel rail from the rest of the fuel system.. it just makes things very easy when ur switching out the head. i got away with not removing it by disconnecting the fuel pump and turning the motor over a few times. *relives fuel pressure* and then taking the rail off the manafold and setting it aside near the firewall after puting tape over the openings where the injecters where to keep debris outa the rail.i also recomend that u get new seals for the injectors... :) couldnt hurt to play it on the safe side[/i]
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
8,227 Posts
dcorwin822 said:
you dont need to remove the fuel rail from the rest of the fuel system.. it just makes things very easy when ur switching out the head. i got away with not removing it by disconnecting the fuel pump and turning the motor over a few times. *relives fuel pressure* and then taking the rail off the manafold and setting it aside near the firewall after puting tape over the openings where the injecters where to keep debris outa the rail.i also recomend that u get new seals for the injectors... :) couldnt hurt to play it on the safe side[/i]
Yes true. But it is easyer and quicker to just unplug the lines instead of removing the rail. The little tool is worth it.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
7,426 Posts
Jeffescortlx said:
Mach_foster said:
Is there a trick to getting the fuel line disconnected? Will I need a special tool?
No and Yes.

You'll need a tool, it's just a simple cheap little thing that you push up into the connections to release the spring that's holding it togehter.
Any parts store should know what you need.
mike (91sleeper) made a universal fit one out of plumbers tape when we swapped his motor it worked like a champ!

NEUMAN
 

· Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the advice. I took the head off last night and installed the new one. Everything is back together except the timing belt.

I have a oil leak coming from the front of the engine about midway up the timing belt area. I can not imagine where the oil is coming from. It is dry around the valve cover and the cam seal. I was thinking that maybe the oil pump gasket was leaking, but the oil is too high on the block for it to be coming out there. Are any where the oil could be coming from. Are any of the bolt holes in the block tied to an oil port or could be leaking oil.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The old cam oil seal did not appear to be bad. The timing belt guard that is positioned against the head had oil on its backside on the right lower bolt hole (closed to front of car). This bolt goes into the head assembly.

Is it possible for oil to leak out of the seal between the block and the head. (head gasket area) That is what it looks like it was doing.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
8,227 Posts
Mach_foster said:
Is it possible for oil to leak out of the seal between the block and the head. (head gasket area) That is what it looks like it was doing.
If the head gasket is on upside down it could effect the oil passeges. Was the mating surfaces 100% clean?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8,379 Posts
Mach_foster said:
Is it possible for oil to leak out of the seal between the block and the head. (head gasket area) That is what it looks like it was doing.
It's entirely possible. When I did the head gasket on my truck this summer, the little rubberized seal in the head gasket for the oil passageways had pulled away from the rest of the gasket material and oil was leaking out slowly and down the block.

When I read earlier, I thought the source of your leak was down lower than this.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well, after two evenings (15 hours total) the job is complete. Rebuilt head is installed and new oil pump gasket is installed. The car is running like a new one. No engine noise at all. I have drove it about 40 miles so far and there is no oil leakage yet, but I will keep an eye on it for awhile to make sure it is not leaking. Tonight I will give the engine a close inspection to make sure everything is tight. Thanks to all you guys for your advice.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top